Don't give up too early . . and something only Hawks can Do

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That sounds like what I would like to be doing on my birthday. Happy Birthday!
----Randy

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Now all you need it some wheels on the saw so that you can pull it outside in good weather and saw in paradise.

-----Randy

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Karl, if you want to minimize vibration, you need to hold the saw solid to whatever "large mass" you can, and that mass sitting on the most unmovable solid thing you can. I think a pad or anything that allows "give" will "allow the saw/stand" to move, thus allowing more...

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I suspect Iggy will return his last Saw also, and Bushton will go over both saws to see what is going on. I suspect there is nothing major wrong with either saw, so I'm thinking there might be a really really good deal on a couple of very little used BMs. :-)...

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No, I'm not getting any black marks yet. I put a nice helping of Johnson wax on it, which I'm hoping will prevent any oxidation.

I keep hoping Hawk will send you a BM in honor of your longtime support of their product. It would be worth their money because having an expert on the forms...

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So what happens in actual practice is that there is a spring that is creating some of that tension, so when the blade stretches, the arm can move a bit without dramatically losing tension. I should have figured that out earlier because the arm creates tension well before I get to the "blade load"...

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I'm a little surprised you mentioned that because as I was troubleshooting, I started focusing on that aspect, thinking that might be an issue. When I feed the blade blindly to that bottom clamp, I was just trying to "hit the hole." But the small blades can be placed towards the back, middle,...

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I thought I had the Hawk trimmed out to it's lowest aggression setting, at least according to what I thought was factory default. When I tried to cut a coin, and I had so much blade travel I couldn't see the lines. So I tried another approach to tuning it. Since the Hawk can run so very slowly, I could actually put the tool in the lower adjustment, and tune it while the saw was running. (I'm sure this isn't supported) There...

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I like the way you think, and agree with the theory, however, like sandpaper that also has reduced surface area, the table was holding the wood. I suspect the table isn't exactly flat, as I had to pick and chose the location for the Nickel test, but I don't have a warranty, so I'm stuck with the table....

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From time to time, we have seen folks complain about the machine marks on the Dewalt table because these didn't allow wood to glide over the table. My BM has marks that are are quite a bit more pronounced than my Dewalt, and for most projects, I could care less, but when I'm doing fretwork, I need to...

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I can not even tell you how happy this makes me. This saw is just a small stretch for those in the market for the 788. I would trade my 21" for this 16" any day. My Ex is the house saw, and relegated to coins, so that extra length is just taking up room.

So basically $600 plus...

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Assuming I live a normal life expectancy, the Hegner/Hawk may be the only saws I own that outlive me. I give a silent prayer everytime I press the pedal down for my EX. Man I love that saw, but it has a lot of moving parts and hard to get to doodads, and like anything complex, there is just more to...

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Yep, making the Hegner owners happy with their purchases I'm sure, but I think I would rather have a bogus sticker than a micro table . . . .

Just kidding, I love my Hegner micro table, it's just the right size for coins, if only the regular clamps held the Jewelers blades :-). I suppose...

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I don't have any chart on any of the other saws and for a veteran scroller, getting the feel for tension/sound comes pretty quick and natural. I think it is only relevant when we get a new saw, and you are trying to see if we are setting it up correctly, and using the chart to sanity check the setup,...

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Very nice. This piece just "makes me happy"

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Ok, that made me laugh . . . .

with the small blades, they break continuously, but never had a piece hit my face and the eyes are behind glasses and magnifier. Since I do a lot of small stuff, I close to the blade and I've gotten stabbed/nicked a few times....

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I've been skipping over the manual, just looking at what I was specifically interested in. I've not seen the maintenance section yet, except for the part where you put oil in that top front hole on the arm. I guess I need to just start studying it. I did find this that I missed before . . . . .
...

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I'm not super young, but I probably do need the exercise. This might be where the shorter 20" would come in handy if the rear could be reached without walking around the saw.

Concerning your repair, I wonder if I need to oil that lower bushing. Are you going to start doing that?...

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Linda, to keep the most control, I don't use a jig for my main coin size, which is the Kennedy. If I go smaller, I just super glue the coin to a piece of thin waste material....

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Rolf, on your G4 and my BM, the tension guide says 1 'oclock for the 2/0. I'm trying out some Jewelers blades, but on those settings, things are not tight enough to hold the back knob down/still, so it's makes the sound like I forgot to apply tension. I think the 12:00 setting is about as light as I...