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Glue ups

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  • Glue ups

    what glue will hold better after a finish has been applied i know its best to glue up before you finish but sometimes you have no choice

  • #2
    I use Weldbond but I have also used Titebond II. The secret is to get a even coat of glue on the two surfaces being join and not just a drop here and there.
    Creator of fine designer sawdust.


    • #3
      On most of my fretwork projects that require a glue-up I use alternate (and frequent) dabs of CA glue and yellow carpenters glue - seems to work well and have never had a separation that I know of.



      • #4
        I use a couple of different glues as well, but agree that the key is the application. Quality glue, enough to adhere while neither being excessive nor skimpy. And a reminder.....When discussing the subject with newbies while demonstrating, I am astounded by the number of the glue "failures" that were (as discovered when asking about how they did things) was from NOT removing sawdust from all surfaces before glueing.
        Linda at


        • #5
          Looking at your post again I see that I didn't clue in to your request to find a product for gluing-up finished pieces - so - I'm gonna add a bit to my answer.

          If you have to finish your pieces before glue-up then think about masking the surfaces that will eventually be glued together so they remain as unfinished and can still be glued as bare-wood on bare-wood. If this can't be done then maybe also think of supplementary fastening such as finishing nails or screws.

          Sorry for missing an important part of your question.

          Last edited by RangerJay; 06-11-2020, 06:41 AM.


          • #6
            If possible, try sanding the areas to be glued to dull the finish. That will help the adhesion. Also, judicious use of CA glue might work. I’ve used it for Corian, which is not porous, so it might be worth a shot. You can always recreate your finish on scrap and do your testing there, before putting your project at risk.

            Follow me on my blog:


            • #7
              I use Titebond II most of the time and I'm with Carole on her suggestion to sand the contact surfaces before glueing up. I even go a little bit further and 'tickle' the areas with the point of a fine burr in my Dremel to make sure the glue really keys into the contact surfaces.

              I make sure that the glue is spread thinly and evenly over the contact surfaces and then push them firmly together, clamping if possible, wiping away any excess glue that squeezes out of the contact joint. If its not possible to clamp I usually apply a piece of duct tape across the joint to hold the pieces firmly together after I release the pressure with my fingers. After about 30 mins the tape or clamp can be removed.
              Jim in Mexico

              Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.
              - Albert Einstein


              • #8
                I use Gorilla White


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