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  • #16
    Dale, it may be a little of both. However, I do recall when pulling off the tape that some fine splinters did come up with the tape. At the time I remembered this happening with 1/8" BB plywood. I will apply some tape to a small test piece tomorrow and see what happens.
    Mike

    Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
    www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

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    • #17
      My test is complete. I adhered a 2" X 5" piece of blue tape to my oak and let it sit while eating breakfast. When I proceeded to pull it off, up came minute slivers with it. I would go with clear packing tape except that if it breaks while removing it, it is so hard to get back underneath it again to get ahold of it. Maybe I need thicker packing tape? I'm going to try spraying the paper and applying direct to the wood. I've done it this way with walnut and had no problem removing it without having to use mineral spirits. I'm beginning to realize that not all woods are created equal. If this doesn't work, it'll be purple tape next.
      Mike

      Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
      www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

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      • #18
        Well Mike I've never had a problem with purple tape so if splinters result when pulling up the purple tape I'd like to know. I would then guess that it has to be a bad piece of Oak, which is possible as I have run across some. Not sure what causes it though.

        Paul S.

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        • #19
          Hi Mike, I use red and white oak alot. and I don't seem to have the problem you have. I don't use tape at all. and I don't have much trubale with burning. witch, I beleave the tape helps with. also lubes the blade some. but I do know that the blue painters tape will set up and stick alot when let to stand. but brekfuss shouldn't be too long. the purpale painters tape lefts off easyer, after letting is stand longer. also if you wont to use clear packing tape, I have heard hear, that , the cheapest tape is the best. but like I said, I don't use tape at all. except on very thick wood. I have no probleam spraying my patterns on, then useing minerale spirits to remove the pattern after cutting.( spray th pattern not the wood ) and that is my prefured method. as far as sanding. after milling. I do use a belt sander with a 80 t0 100 grit at first. but move quickly and even ly. or you will create a gruve. also. I sand with the grain of the wood. not croswize.I do go side to side, but with the sander sanding with the grain. then i go to my orbitale sander. any derection. starting with a 100 grit to 150- 220- 320. on and on. sanding is not my favorite part of the job. ( like Berry says too. wipe inbetween each grit size, a brush or a soft cloth dampend some. don't wont to get it to wet or you can raise the grain again. or even blow it off with your compresser) also, when i remove my patterns, with minerale spirits,I go back and remove the glue if any is leaft with some more minerale spirits. then, I use a hair dryer , to dry my pieces, then go over the cutouts with a palm sander, again starting with at leaset 100 to 220 to 320 grit. sanding with the grain. this goes pretty fast. I don't try to get my pieces to feel like satin. I dont mind some grain. for I think that gives some cariture to the piece. the finish you use, can make this happen. hope this helped some. Evie

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Paul S WI
            Well Mike I've never had a problem with purple tape so if splinters result when pulling up the purple tape I'd like to know. I would then guess that it has to be a bad piece of Oak, which is possible as I have run across some. Not sure what causes it though.
            reading back, I was wondering, if just maybe, when you do your taping to the piece of wood. is there some ruffness on the sides of the piece. that might be why the tape has something to grab on to. try running a piece of sand papper on the sides of you wood that you are going to glue or tape to. Evie

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