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maple wood

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  • maple wood

    i am working on a chess set out of walnut and maple i know how the walnut
    will do with watco natural danish oil but i don't like the way it turns out on maple test piece it seems to go to a yellow tinge i want a nice clean maple look i am open for suggestions

  • #2
    Hi - Oil is going to go even more yellowish over time. It's a natural oxidation process.
    If you are just looking to put a protective coat on your pieces to keep them clean when in use I'd suggest you use a matte or satin acrylic top coat or a good quality polyurethane.
    Jim in Mexico

    Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.
    - Albert Einstein


    • #3
      The best thing I've found to keep a natural finish is water based poly. Minwax calls theirs Polycrylic. Drys really fast but raises the grain on the first coat.
      Woodworking is Therapy.... some of us need more therapy than others.


      • #4
        I use Deft lacquer because it doesn't yellow.
        Don R
        Custom Made Scroll Saw Patterns


        • #5
          I'm a Deft lacquer user myself...
          Douglas Fraser
          Eagle River, Alaska

          My Gallery - Aurora Wood Crafts


          • #6
            Yellowing Sealers


            I have always been told not to use oil based topcoats or sealers because they all will yellow over time (unless I am looking for that type of finish of course). For me, the best thing I can recommend is a water based resin varnish, with a UV protecting agent included in the varnish, to prevent yellowing.

            Yes, it will raise the grain a little bit, but that will be sanded off in the subsequent coating applications, and will not be noticeable at all afterward.

            Also, make sure it is scratch resistant because the chess pieces, even with felt bottoms or cushioning, can leave micro- scratches which can cause a dull appearance if you are going with a higher level gloss (I would say 60 degree gloss or higher), but will not be as critical with a satin finish or a lower gloss level (60 degree gloss or less).

            I see you are testing on a scrap piece which is a great way to confirm your finish, just keep testing whatever you choose.

            Good Luck



            • #7
              I like Krylon acrylic for top coats, clears and colors. It's not picky about temp, humidity, fast and best of all fairly cheap. I find it for $3-$5 for a can of shake and shoot. Lowes will sometimes have off brand or generic close outs for a buck a can. Got enough black for backers to last a couple years the other day.
              May the wind at you back .....
              Not be from Lunch.

              Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

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              • #8
                on curly maple after my first sanding i run a torch over the wood it raises the grain so you can sand it again, then finish with minwax , it gives it a smoother finish, ive used the light oak finish a lot on it i like the light color it gives and shows off the curl a lot


                • #9
                  Can you use Lacquer over Danish Oil or should you only use a Polyurethane on it?


                  • #10
                    Watco make a great spray lacquer in matte, satin and gloss finishes.

                    Dries fast, is largely self-leveling and the gloss will look like glass on maple after a few coats--especially if you lightly burnish with 0000 steel wool or 600 grit paper prior to final coat.
                    When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
                    Too early to leave, too late to call in.


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Arthodd View Post
                      Can you use Lacquer over Danish Oil or should you only use a Polyurethane on it?
                      I use lacquer over Danish oil almost exclusively works great for me never had any issues.
                      Life's funny if you laugh at it!



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