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  • Mod Podge Application

    I've tried using Mod Podge as a sealer and I get streaking much like wood grain. I tried sanding w/ 320 grit (couldn't find 400) and I ended up starting to take some of the picture off. I'm saying it is a effort make the puzzle appear older than it is (distressing/aging). Is there a better way to apply it or should I apply a couple of coats before sanding.

    I am using Mod Podge (Satin) with a foam brush and the ambient temp is probably ~60 F.

    Would heating MP in a double boiler be a safe move? Increased temperature increased flow rate?
    Sawdust King

    If there is one thing I can make perfect every time it is sawdust.

  • #2
    I have found with the exception of regular paper MP is not necessary in the creation of puzzles. You will just need to take your time and build your technique using it. Long smooth strokes with a foam brush works best when I use MP. I don't beleive heating it is the solution, thinning does seem to help some what. I use tap water to thin it, but not much thinning is necessary nor will regular printer paper tolerate too much moisture.

    Keep trying and practicing, and share some pics of your accomplishments.
    "Still Montana Mike"

    "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
    Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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    • #3
      I used Krylon acrylic (the type with UV block) with good luck this week on a dye based inkjet print (printed just 1-2 days earlier on Kodak glossy paper). I read MP dries quick and is hard to work with quickly enough, so I went the acrylic route instead. Carter uses triple glaze, but I can't find it locally and I just read a bunch of negative posts on other sites about it, so I figure I might as well stick with acrylic (spray). I also used polyurethane varnish (spray). It went on more evenly than acrylic, but I happen to have satin, so it wasn't clear.

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