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  • Mineral Oil Finishing Problem

    After reading everything I could find on this website and a couple others, I decided to finish the Celtic trivets I had cut with mineral oil. I used a small brush for application to most of the trivest; the last two I immersed in a pan to speed up the process. I did 2-3 coats, drying each coat with a rag after at least 30 minutes. I then let the trivets air dry in my workshop overnight before bringing them in to air dry further for 2 days. Then I stacked them in a closet with a double sheet of tissue paper between each trivet. I checked the trivets last night and all the tissue paper showed stains pretty much in the pattern shape. I intended to use the trivets as family Christmas gifts but now I am worried that using the trivets will stain table cloths. What can I do to dry the trivets to the point no mineral oil will leach out? The trivets are made of walnut, brazilian cherry and oak.

  • #2
    Unfortunately, that's one of the hazards of mineral oil for finishing; mineral oil is not a drying oil. That's why, when you use it as a butcher block finish, for example, you need to reapply it regularly...

    You might try wiping with lacquer thinner and applying several coats of lacquer...or some other sort of sealer. I'd use shellac, but some people are intimidated by shellac...


    Best Regards,
    Bob Duncan
    Technical Editor
    www.GrobetUSA.com

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    • #3
      a couple coats of spray lacquer should seal the oil in.
      Pacifism is great, as long as everyone is participating.



      StephenD


      The Southern Arizona Woodturners Association
      Desert Woodcrafters
      Grandpa for the 7 most amazing children.

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      • #4
        I'd do like Stephan & Bob said and clear coat it. Mineral Oil will never dry, the same goes for Lemon Oil. I prefer watco danish oil.
        "Still Montana Mike"

        "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
        Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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        • #5
          Wipe the trivets down with thinner apply shellac. In the future I would suggest one of the other oil finishes like Tung or Danish oil. Both soak in and then set up and then can be top coated easily. Both bring the natural beauty of the wood out and are easy to apply.

          DW
          Life is hard. It is even harder when you are being stupid.
          John Wayne

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          • #6
            Originally posted by DWSudekum View Post
            Wipe the trivets down with thinner apply shellac. In the future I would suggest one of the other oil finishes like Tung or Danish oil. Both soak in and then set up and then can be top coated easily. Both bring the natural beauty of the wood out and are easy to apply.

            DW
            Can I wipe the (mineral oil treated) trivets with lacquer thinner and then apply danish oil?

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            • #7
              I'm not sure how the danish oil will react with the mineral oil... the mineral oil should have already accented the grain. The best thing to do is wipe with lacquer thinner and immediately apply lacquer or shellac, both of which form a film on top of the wood and will seal in the oil. If you wait too long between wiping with the lacquer thinner, more oil may seep out and it may interfere with your finish.

              The advantage is that both lacquer and shellac dry fast.
              www.GrobetUSA.com

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              • #8
                ......If i visualise correctly...your main concern is of the oil leaching from the "BOTTOM" onto a table cloth........(???).....try wipeing the bottom surface with laquer thinner until the oil is gone, then spray or brush on a couple of coats of poly finish to the bottom only...the heat ( from pans ) should NOT affect the bottom, and the oil will still protect the top.....i have done this with 1/4 " birch fretwork trivets and not had any problems.

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                • #9
                  Unfortunately, if you put a film finish on only one side of a piece, it can really warp and twist. Through the year, based on the air humidity, wood can absorb and release water (and expand and contract). If you seal one side of a piece of wood, the wood closest to that side won't expand and contract at the same rate as the wood at the other side. If you're using plywood, expansion and contraction is minimal (the plys in alternating directions keep plywood pretty stable), but solid wood can expand and contract as much as 1/4" (6mm) through the year.

                  Best Regards,
                  Bob Duncan
                  Technical Editor
                  www.GrobetUSA.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Mineral oil with paste wax?

                    After reading this thread, I'm concerned about a piece I recently finished. I put mineral oil on it to bring out the grain (read that somewhere here) and when dry(?) I coated with paste wax.
                    This will be a present so, do I need to reverse this like is mentioned above or will the paste wax hold for this hanging clock?

                    Thanks,
                    Regis
                    An old beginner leaping in.

                    Pleased with my new EX-16.

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                    • #11
                      I've never tried it with wax, so I don't have any experience with it. If it's hanging, it should be ok, though.

                      Bob
                      www.GrobetUSA.com

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                      • #12
                        Here's your formula for oiling. I have used this method for years and it works great: One bottle tung oil, one bottle mineral oil and fill each bottle of tung oil and mineral oil with mineral spirits. Mix and presto! A great dipping oil. If you are dipping alot or big items, adjust amounts accordingly. Dip several pieces at a time, let drip for a few minutes, then wipe down and set out to dry. I use the plastic backed paper table cloths to dry on. Dry overnight and wipe next morning. It will take about 2 days to fully cure, but if you're like me and dipping and packing day before a show, just put pieces of white tissue paper between each item. Store left over mixture in containers filled to the top. You can also get collapsible containers from Lee Valley to store in. Let settle and before using again you can strain or just pour off until the "gunk" in the bottom starts to flow, then toss that out. I only use this method and it works great. I did read in here, though, that some people put varnish in with the tung oil so I might try that. The trick is to thin the oils with the mineral spirits to get it to dry. You can also use just the mineral oil & spirits if you want a clear finish and don't have the $$ for the tung oil. I like the amber color of the tung oil, that's why I use it.
                        Betty

                        "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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                        • #13
                          I make my own "danish oil" using equal parts of mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and polyurathane, typically 1 qt. of ea. mixed thouroghly in a clean gallon paint can. Works great for me.
                          Greg
                          S.E. Ga.
                          http://www.joesawdust.com

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                          • #14
                            Thanks to all for the comments and advice. I have 12 trivets so I plan on trying at least 2 of the recommended methods.

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                            • #15
                              If you want an "oil" to bring out the grain, then use Boiled Linseed Oil. It drys fast, I leave it overnight. Then you can put any kind of finish you want over it. I like the water base Polyacrylic for fast drying (30 minutes) between coats and full cure overnight. It is used for furniture and recommended for children toys and furniture.

                              Buy Poly Acrylic Semi-Gloss Pint at Woodcraft

                              Steve.
                              Steve.
                              EX-16, DW-788, Dremel 1680

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