No announcement yet.

poplar wood

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • poplar wood

    which of the oils do you prefer for the above wood linseed oil,tung oil or
    watco natural oil i like to keep the clear look for this wood.

  • #2
    I prefer a clear coat finish like shellac or lacquer for poplar.

    Follow me on my blog:


    • #3
      From a performance standpoint, there is little practical difference between linseed oil (boiled linseed oil) and true tung oil. Boiled linseed oil may be slightly more amber in color, but both are drying oils and act the same. Neither are terribly good as stand alone finishes. They need to be re-applied in order to keep the finish looking fresh. If not, eventually the wood just looks dull. I also think that dust is more likely to stick to a plain oil finish as opposed to a film finish.

      Watco is a little different animal. Commonly referred to as a Danish oil, it is essentially a mix of a drying oil, (such as tung or BLO), thinner and varnish. The varnish provides a little bit of protection and the finish leaves a nice, hand rubbed, in the wood, look. As with all oil finishes, Watco will impart an amber tint to the wood. This may or may not be desirable, depending on what look you are going for.

      If you are looking to maintain a clear, natural look to the poplar, then a pre-catalyzed lacquer or a waterborne finish are better choices. Nitrocellulose lacquer will turn yellow with time. You can get super blonde shellac in flake form which is also pretty clear. A pre-mix clear shellac, such as Zinnser Bulls Eye Seal Coat will add a slight amber tint, but less than an oil finish.
      Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."


      • #4
        Just jumping into this thread for a minute to say Bill... that's good useful information for me!
        It's never hot or cold in NH, it's always seasonal!


        Unconfigured Ad Widget


        Latest Topics


        • will8989
          Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
          by will8989
          Regulations are 150 square feet, this will be 144 square feet so we are good. He’s making it that size Since the sheets are 4’ wide. And the Shelves need to be 4” above my head!! It will be very specific.
          Today, 10:32 AM
        • Sandy Oaks
          Reply to Shrink wrap systems
          by Sandy Oaks
          As a framer, we have a shrinker wrapper at ArtCrafters. Very simple. Film on a roller, sealer attached, just roll off enough film, seal the film, insert object, seal other end and shrink with a heat gum. We also use Uline as a source. Not sure where our unit can from as it was with the shop when...
          Today, 09:46 AM
        • NC Scroller
          Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
          by NC Scroller
          I would make the shed 1" less than the size permits are required for. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS TOO MUCH SPACE....
          Today, 07:42 AM
        • NC Scroller
          Reply to Shrink wrap systems
          by NC Scroller
          I shrink wrap all my puzzles. It is the best method I have found. I do not use a cardboard backer as some do. I use shrink wrap bags that I get from Amazon or Ebay. 8" x 12" will fit 95% of the puzzles I make.

          To use the bags you will need a sealer. I have one very similar...
          Today, 07:39 AM
        • Linda In Phoenix
          Reply to Shrink wrap systems
          by Linda In Phoenix
          I checked out We used them years ago at the company I used to work at, and they were really reputable to work with. They have machines, guns, bags, and film. I just don't really know what works best, as well as if there is a really great priced to buy from. To date I've been a frugal...
          Yesterday, 10:01 PM