glue over stain?

[millwab Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close millwab]

Not sure if this fits here, but it does involve a "finish." I'm completing a project someone else started, and I need to glue a thin aluminum clock face onto wood that has already been stained. It was an oil based stain (Minwax), and I've masked off the dial area so the finish (wipe-on poly) doesn't cover where I need to glue. The question is, what kind of glue can I use to bond metal to wood over stain? I'm concerned the stain might interfere with the bonding.

Bruce

[Marcel in Longueuil Gone to the Dark Side Find all posts View Profile Close Marcel in Longueuil]

Hi Bruce,

I'd say either silicone or urethane (Gorilla) glue should do the job nicely.

Try to give the surface a slight sanding first with 120 or 180 grit to roughen the surface up somewhat. Make sure you clean it up after the sanding.

Personally I would opt for the silicone. The Urethane will foam up and if you are not familiar with it and don't wipe off the excess before it dries...

Well let's just say that chaste ears should not be around you at that time.

Regards,
Marcel

[MacS Banned Find all posts View Profile Close MacS]

Use CA glue

Another option, first be sure the Minwax stain and the poly are completely dry, lightly sand the area, clean it, and then use CA glue, hold it in place for a half a minute, and that should do it.

[Bill Wilson Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bill Wilson]

I wonder if Weldbond would work? It says it will bond metal to wood, not sure about the stain though. Also may try a 2 part epoxy. I think that would work, even with the stain.

[Mick Walker Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mick Walker]

Bruce, I would use an x-acto or utility knife with a pointed blade and scratch the wood where the the glue will be applied. That will give the glue something to grab onto. I would also rough up the aluminum with sandpaper too. I do that when gluing picture frames, never had one come apart yet. Mick

[MacS Banned Find all posts View Profile Close MacS]

Glues

All good suggestions, usually, it is dirt, oils, polish, or some other residue that causes poor adhesion between the substrate and the glue.

In this case, where the clock must lay flat on the surface, a thin flowing glue most likely would be something you would want to consider.

[millwab Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close millwab]

Another choice I thought of was contact cement. I've used it before with laminates for counter tops, but the back side of the laminate is porous. The back side of the clock dial is smooth and painted, so I don't know how well it would work here. Also, this dial has an 11" diameter, so I'll need some working time to get it covered and down.

Bruce

[lucky788scroller Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lucky788scroller]

I would say a CA glue sounds like the best idea. get the thicker type (what comes to mind is 'Hot Stuff Super T' ca glue). Im not sure of your application, but I think you would only need a little dab of it.If you are doing what I am thinking , when you attach the movement, you will have a thin brass washer and a nut that will also be holding it in place. Be sure you have your dial perfectly lined up right, and 12 is at top precisely, once the glue dries, theres no turning back! Dale

[Rolf The WoodMeister Find all posts View Profile Close Rolf]

The back of your clock face may also have a plastic film or clear coat on it.

Epoxy would also work 5 min is great if you don't putz too much.

[MacS Banned Find all posts View Profile Close MacS]

Which glue, is the right glue?

Epoxies are great glues, for filling damages, and for making parts. But in this case, you would need to "spead out" the mixed epoxy, so, it lays down into a very thin layer, so, you do not have large seperation, between the clock and the wood.

Good luck, whichever, way you decide go.