Homebrew oil finish

[millwab]

Scrollers,
I've been wanting to try Danish oil on a fretwork project, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere around me. The BORG, local hardware stores and lumber yards don't carry it. I've seen a couple of 'homebrews' posted here before: one using an equal mix of BLO and MS; the other using equal parts of BLO, MS and poly.

I'm looking for something that would have a long shelf life after being opened. The unused (Formby's) tung oil I've used in the past has gelled on me before I got around to using it again and I've heard that Danish oil won't do that. What's your experience with the 'homebrews' listed above? I would think that the one with the poly might have the potential to gel (unless it is diluted down too much). Your experience?

Bruce

[sheltiecarver]

Bruce,
It is definately not a home brew, but can you get Watco?? It says it is Danish Oil, and it works really well for me (long shelf-life, too)
Sandy

[GrayBeard Phil]

Mail Order or Web Order?

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=767

Woodcraft store may be drivable to your NE Ohio location.

Also at Homestead finishing, there is a brand name called Tried and True
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...ls_varnish.htm for a couple of variation on oil based finishes

BTW: I am very surprised that your local BORG doesn't carry Watco (brand name) Danish Oil finish. There must be at least 4 foot wide shelf space of Watco in the paint dept at both of my local BORG and its clone Lowe's.
You must be in a EPA ultra low VOC region. (IIRC: Danish oil may NOT be ultra low VOC.)

Phil

[MacS]

BLO is a drying oil !

Bruce

"got around to using it again and I've heard that Danish oil won't do that. What's your experience with the 'homebrews' listed above? I would think that the one with the poly might have the potential to gel (unless it is diluted down too much). Your experience?"

Its not the poly that will gel or harden, its the BLO, when using the 1/3 formula it takes a real long time to have that problem, but remember, if you leave the cover off the container, or you don't replace the air space in the container, then the "drying oil" will eat up the oxygen, and start the drying proces.

[millwab]

Thanx Phil, I never thought to look at Woodcraft. After following your link and reading Mac's answer (and the "Tung Oil" thread after mine), I've decided to try the pure tung oil the next time.

And yes, it's hard to believe that the BORG didn't have Danish oil. They had Teak Oil finish but that was it. There are a couple of other places I can still try, but if I need to hit the Woodcraft store it isn't too far out of my way.

Bruce