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  • Making it shine

    OK, I've scrolled my fingers to the bone ( no, not really ) sanded, cleaned , applied my stain ( sprayed or dipped, depending ) and now I want to spray something that will seal & shine ....gloss or semi , again depending. Currently I only have spray shellac and Krylon acrylic in my shop, neither of which have worked very well for me. The acrylic tends to " orange peel " pretty quickly, probably due to my inexperience . I would like to hear from you 'speerienced folks about what you use as a final coat and how you apply it
    Thanx
    ...~Robert~
    DW788 and Hawk 226

    " Please let me grow to be the man my dog thinks I am "

  • #2
    Hy Robert, I just started useing Delf. Clear wood finish, I use the satin. some one here told me about it. and thanks to ever did. it was a gale. (ha ha) it is good for me , becouse I spray way to much. doing small fretwork. its hard to get the laquor in the small places with out over spraying. and puddalling. it seams to have a leavaling ageant. that spreads it around and thats just what i needed. also, leaves no vesabale webbing or camale hairs like i like to call them. like she said. if you wont a shinny finish . just spray on more. no matter if flat or satin. i haven't tryed the closs. i found this at lous. and walmart. hope this helps

    Evie Ps it is a spray on.
    Last edited by minowevie; 07-10-2006, 06:54 PM.

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    • #3
      Hi Robert,

      The important thing to remember is to spray THIN coats.
      We all tend to want to cover with one coat and that is a mistake.

      DEFT brand Urethane or lacquer is a good product used by many in here. Personally I will use different finish for my projects, sometimes just to experiment.

      I like to use a coat of oil, Tung or Danish, to make the grain show itself, then I use lacquer or Urethane sprayed in multiple thin coats, no sanding in between except sometimes before the last coat.

      The instructions on the spray can will tell you how long between coats so you don't have to sand.

      If you want "depth" to your finish, you may want to use a gloss finish except for the last coat where you would use semi-gloss.

      Trivia:
      How do you tell which is the Gloss spray can from the semi-gloss spray can without reading the label?
      Shake them: The Semi-gloss is the one with the "ball" inside the can to mix the agent that tones down the gloss. The can of gloss has no "ball" in it.

      Regards,
      Marcel
      http://marleb.com
      DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore.

      NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sawduster-

        Have you tried Karylin Triple Thick? Works for me. Look for it in Wahl-mart.

        Fingers to the bone? So let's see what you've done.

        -Bill
        -Bill

        My saw is a DeWalt788 Measure twice; cut once; count fingers after cut

        Comment


        • #5
          Robert, for a water based finish that will not turn your wood amber I have had good luck with Minwax Polycrylic spray, it comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss. 3 or 4 coats, the first coat will raise the grain slightly requiring a light sanding. You can recoat it in 30 minutes. The trick is light coats. Good luck with whatever you decide on. Mick Delta P-20
          Last edited by Mick Walker; 07-11-2006, 09:46 AM.
          Mick, - Delta P-20

          A smile is a small curve that straightens everything out.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Marcel in Longueuil
            Hi Robert,

            The important thing to remember is to spray THIN coats.
            We all tend to want to cover with one coat and that is a mistake.

            DEFT brand Urethane or lacquer is a good product used by many in here. Personally I will use different finish for my projects, sometimes just to experiment.

            I like to use a coat of oil, Tung or Danish, to make the grain show itself, then I use lacquer or Urethane sprayed in multiple thin coats, no sanding in between except sometimes before the last coat.

            The instructions on the spray can will tell you how long between coats so you don't have to sand.

            If you want "depth" to your finish, you may want to use a gloss finish except for the last coat where you would use semi-gloss.

            Trivia:
            How do you tell which is the Gloss spray can from the semi-gloss spray can without reading the label?
            Shake them: The Semi-gloss is the one with the "ball" inside the can to mix the agent that tones down the gloss. The can of gloss has no "ball" in it.

            Regards,
            Marcel

            Marcel that is some good tips. I didn't know that about the ball. and why do you use gloss first. then semi-gloss? never heard that before.
            Evie

            Comment


            • #7
              Evie,
              The semi-gloss, matte, or satin finishes have some stuff to dull the shine. Not knowing what they are exactly, I just call them "dullers". If you spray on multiple coats, they may get a bit "milky" looking. I carve, and I found this out - well, you can probably guess!
              So... if you want a deep finish, you use the clear to build it up, and then dull the shine with the last coat.
              I always knew I didn't want a really glassy shine to my carvings - it can make them look less like wood and more like glass or ceramic. I use the Deft glossy for a few coats, then the satin or matte to finish.
              Sandy

              Comment


              • #8
                Wow Sandy, I wish i would have read about this before i did my finish. you know, i did notice the milky stuff. didn't know what the heck was going on. but it was in my smoke, on my tile, so, i thought , that the white, would be ok. but it dosn't show now. whuuuuu. boy you guys, are just a dictionary of wealth, of knowledg, hear.
                thanks so much, my next project is so big, and i wont it to be just right. it will be the best thing , I think, I have done so far. and I wont it to be a airloom. LOL. I know spelling. it will be so much work, that I sure don't wont to mess up on the finishing. i would like to glue it all together first before staining. but not sure how to do what first. i was thinking of soacking it first in blow.???? but don't know. when i get there. can i come pick your brain??
                Your friend Evie

                Comment


                • #9
                  Evie,

                  Anyone can pick my brains and they'll get an answer.

                  Sometimes it may not be the one they want to hear, but they'll get it.

                  Other times it may not be the right answer, but they'll get it.
                  In this last case, I noticed there's always someone to rapidly come and point out my mistakes. I learn from it too.

                  But, overall, I try to the best of my knowledge and experience to give the best advice I can; and so far I've done pretty well .

                  So...
                  Of course you can come and discuss you project's finish with all of us. That's what this forum is all about sharing ideas and knowledge (and some good jokes once in a while)

                  Now I'm anxious to see "THE" heirloom project.

                  Your friend Marcel
                  http://marleb.com
                  DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore.

                  NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Evie,
                    My brain is always available for the picking - just realize that often it will be sort of "slim pickin's".
                    Marcel,
                    I hope you didn't think I was correcting you in any way - I was just trying to clarify something you said that I had also learned (the way that you don't easily forget). If I stepped on your toes, my apology. Occasionally I can be a B-head.
                    Sandy

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK what did i miss. did you step on marcels toes? Sandy. I didn't see that. at all. and Marcel you are a great help. always. and truthfull i might add. I always learn from you. your good at teaching, so you better just get used to it. lol Pay back.
                      just kidding, I really do love all the help you all give us. and the friendship here is awsome. your friend Evie
                      just like a bunch of kids. and of corse I am the youngest.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Evie,

                        You didn't miss anything.

                        Sandie,

                        I wasn't referring to your post at all.

                        The information you gave Evie was a good complement to what I had posted, and explained rather well what I should have explained with my suggestion to use gloss as a base for non-gloss finish to get "depth".
                        I don't think the information I gave was wrong at all, just maybe lacking in detail.

                        I was just stating that in general when I made mistakes in giving advice, someone came in and corrected me, I wasn't referring to my last post at all. Actually, that applies anywhere. And I'm not offended when the others find me at fault, I've long ago accepted that I'm really not God, just human and I make mistakes. When someone corrects me, I learn from it. (Well... OK, I do get pissed off at myself for making a mistake in the first place. But I'm never mad at whomever gives the right answer, just jealous He he)

                        Don't apologize for something you didn't do, there's no need.

                        I'm the one who's sorry for confusing you into a guilt trip.

                        Regards,
                        Marcel
                        http://marleb.com
                        DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore.

                        NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          OK, Little Brother,
                          So long as we're ok, we can go back to trying to help Evie get a nice deep shine on her projects.
                          Thanks, Marcel!
                          Sandy

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Marcel
                            I always thought that maybe the ball was stuck to the bottom.
                            I also like the idea of the semi over the gloss for more depth I will try it on my next project.
                            I also agree Thin coats is critical. We tend to want to get it done at the end, but you just spent alot of time cutting your project only to ruin it in a hurry to get it finished.
                            I use Rustoleum clear and satin. I tried the water based polycoat and did not like the way it went on.
                            I also tend not to like glossy finishes I personally think it detracts from the project. I want the wood to stand out not the finish.
                            Rolf
                            RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                            Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                            Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                            And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              sawdustus of hiawatha

                              More from just another finisher who would rather be cutting.

                              I always sand to 220 or 320 grit before cutting. I fine it impossible to sand very fine pieces without breaking them after they are cut. I also use reverse tooth blades since that usually eliminates the bottom fuzzies and reduces the cleanup time before painting or finishing. I find that Minwax spray poly is very good. I bought a gadget in a local craft store that clips onto the spray can and uses a hand grip to depress the spray nozzle. It is much easier to control the spray with it than by depressing the nozzle with your finger tip (also less painful after an hour of spraying ornaments).

                              A very, very light sanding between coats is useful for getting off the dust nibs. Again I use 320 grit paper and tack cloth before a new coat.
                              A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine.
                              George

                              delta 650, hawk G426

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