I've seen some ads in the magazines about using Rit Dye on the wood.Has anyone ever tried using dye? If so,could you provide some info on the procedure, such as prepping the wood., how heavy a coat is applied.etc.What's the rule of thumb on drying time (considering variances in temperature and humidity levels) .Do you dip it or brush it? Does it bleed out? What was the mixture ratio?
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Hi 299t,
I have tried just a few samples. My wife is a spinner, making her own yarn, and uses Rit Dye all the time. I tried a few pine pieces and it got darker. The hardwood (hickory) seemed more even but not as dark. As far as mixing, my wife made it according to package directions. She also dyes some wools with Koolaid. I can't drink it anymore.
Tim"All it Takes For the Forces of EVIL to Rule Is For Enough GOOD People To DO NOTHING!"
Saws: Excaliber 30; Dewalt 788 'Twins', Makita SJ401 (Retired), Grizzly G1012 18" Bandsaw
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299t:
There are whole books and magizine article galore about dyeing wood. Using Rit fabric dyes is only one way. Woodcraft, Rockler, and Homestead Finishing Products have a wide assortment of dyes, stains, and other wood coloring products. (Dyes and stains are different products. Most Minwax products I think are really stains,)
Softwoods, like Pine, tend to end up with un-even color absorbtion due to the Pine resin if I recall correctly (IIRC.) Solid Poplar wood takes dyes real good.
However, with fretwork in scroll sawing, there is the additional problem of end-grain drawing up more dye than edge grain. Fretwork has end grain everywhere mixed with edge grain. Thus where the end-grain is exposed there will be a small darker, or more intense, color area.
As with all things with wood coloring, test, and retest, on scrap wood of same type.
But to your questions:
- For small items, dipping would be my choice. You need to flood the wood for a small time period, then wipe off extra with dye damp rag. Time of soaking wood should be on product package. Wood about equall to cotton.
- If the dye is water based, it will 'raise' the grain. If you wet the wood first and very lightly sand off the 'fuzzies' the dye won't be able to raise the grain. With some detailed fret work, the project is too delicate to sand, so many use heavy brown paper bag from grocery store. Bathroom 'scrounge' pad also works also.
- 1st few time you mess with dyes and stains, you will find you may sand thru to the dye (if you do a lot of 'between' coats sanding.) That is just a learning curve you have to get over, so expect it, and be happy if doesn't apply to you.
Phil
PS: Dyes are a real mess. Just be sure you have a GOOD plan on dealing with the mess, gloves, and old clothes.
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I have tried a few alternatives, including Rit. My experience was that it fades to a more muted color pretty quickly. It still retains the color,it just looks a little washed out. That look works for a lot of stuff. If you search around, aniline dye can be found at reasonable prices. Here is one good source:
Luthiers Mercantile-Andy
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I read that Minwax is coming out with 74 new colors of stain. Some of the colors are wintersky (pale blue), lemongrass (yellow), antique jade (green), fruitpunch (orange), cherry blossom (cherry colored).
They are called Minwax Decorator Tint Formula and are waterbased stains.
Available at the usual locations.
Has anyone tried these?
cooter
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Dyes
I made some parrot puzzles a few years ago and used rit dye. Mixed a little stronger than mfg recomendations then put the parts in large jars and let them soak . Turned out ok, nice bright colour.Smitty
Dewalt 788
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Originally posted by arbarnhartI have tried a few alternatives, including Rit. My experience was that it fades to a more muted color pretty quickly. It still retains the color,it just looks a little washed out. That look works for a lot of stuff. If you search around, aniline dye can be found at reasonable prices. Here is one good source:
Luthiers Mercantile
My point in posting the aniline dye link is that you should make sure you really are saving money before trying alternatives.
The particular set of dyes I pointed at are the alcohol soluble. I like those because they don't raise the grain to a noticable degree and they dissolve in shellac (because it is mostly alcohol) for nice easy tinting finishes. But they also have water soluble.
I will just agree to disagree with anyone that says bright colored Rit dye stays vivid and bright on wood that spends much of any time in the light. There are times when you can use this to your advantage.-Andy
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well, i copied and sent your original question to a retired professional finisher and free lance writer of many finishing articals in many finishing magazines worldwide, Mac simmons http://www.macsimmons.com/macsnotebookindex.html this was his responses to it. .... I've seen some ads in the magazines about using Rit Dye on the wood.Has anyone ever tried using dye? If so,could you provide some info on the procedure, such as prepping the wood.,"Let me first say, professional finishers do not use Rit dyes, they use aniline dyes, or a fairly new dye that is actually made up from micronized pigments, these are better protection against fading."
THE WOODS MUST BE WELL SANDED, CLEAN, FREE OF ALL DUST how heavy a coat is applied.etc. DYES WORK BETTER WHEN THEY ARE SPRAYED, RATHER THEN WIPED.What's the rule of thumb on drying time (considering variances in temperature and humidity levels) WATER DYES NEED OVER NIGHT DRYING, THE ALCOHOL OR ACETONE TYPES DRY IN LESS THEN 1 HOUR..Do you dip it or brush it? YOU CAN DIP OR BRUSH, IT TAKES SOME PRACTICING, AND DEPENDS ON THE SIZE OF THE PIECES YOUR WORKING ON. Does it bleed out? ALLOW FOR COMPLETE DRYING, AND USE THE PROPER TYPE OF COATING.What was the mixture ratio? USUALLY, ONE OUNCE OF POWDER TO A QUART OF SOLVENT, CONSIDERATION MUST BE GIVING TO THE TYPE OF WOOD AND THE COLORS YOU WANT TO ACHEIVE. and as for mixing it with alcohol/ ms/ water or whatever..... "There are many dyes, you need to know the type of dye, and then know which combination of solvents go into each other.
If you take the dye, and mix it first in lacquer thinner, and then add some mineral spirits it will go in.
If you take some dyes, and add alcohol first, and then add some water, they will go into each other."
I hope that helped instead of confused anyone. Check out his finishing notebook some time, theres a lot of info in that notebook website. DaleDale w/ yella saws
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Leather dye is often, maybe even usuallly, aniline dye, but often is available in smaller quantities. It is usually much more expensive in dollars per unit, but if you only need a little bit it is cheaper than buying a bigger bottle from a woodworking shop. Plus it is in craft stores and a whole lot easier to find.-Andy
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Originally posted by arbarnhartLeather dye is often, maybe even usuallly, aniline dye, but often is available in smaller quantities. It is usually much more expensive in dollars per unit, but if you only need a little bit it is cheaper than buying a bigger bottle from a woodworking shop. Plus it is in craft stores and a whole lot easier to find.
Illl try to down load some pics. if it doesn't work sorry but here goes. your friend Evie
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