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  • Polyurathane on basswood>

    I just completed a piece that has a basswood round as a backing piece and a design cut out of 1/4" oak on top. I was thinking about polyurathaneing but was wondering how the basswood would take it. Would it stick and dry good or would the wood soak it up? I want to give it as a present next week but don't know if I would have the time if I polyed it. The oak piece I wouldn't poly because it has to many nooks and crannys in it and I don't have a place to do any spraying at the moment. I can only brush the poly. So,to poly or not to poly, that is the quesetion.
    Confuscious says, "The cautious seldom err".
    Confuscious didn't own a scrollsaw either.

  • #2
    Being under time constraints here is what I would do. I would use a dewaxed shellac as an under coat and sealer. I like a product called Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat. If your home center does not have, a paint store will. It will allow the use of any top coat. Brush it on liberally and get in the nooks and crannies but do not let it drip because this stuff dries fast so don't play with it put it on and let it dry for a few hours. After it has dried take either a fine sandpaper or even a brown paper bag and just lightly go over the face of it. Do not worry about fret work. Wipe down to get dust off. Now I would use a wipeon poly of your choice semi or gloss. The reason I choose wipeon is it is thin and will dry fast so you can recoat the next day. Dries in a day. Brush it on so it gets in the nooks and crannies again do not let it pool and drip though. And then wipe the top down with a lint free cloth. Let dry and again use a brown paper bag to lightly sand down. This like burnishes the piece and gives a nice feel. Then recoat. Do the same thing with the bag. Now you have to make a decision does it need one more coat or not. But like I said dries in one day. The first coat dries in about 6 hours. This is my suggestion.
    John T.

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    • #3
      JT has given you some good advice. I also use the brown paper bag trick. It works. However, polyurethane works just fine on Basswood, but the wood will, in many cases, take several coats to get a smooth, hard finish. I have used Basswood for years carving birds, etc, and the problem is that it can be relatively "hard" with a very fine, even grain and it can be "pithy" and become almost like Balsa (the model airplane stuff). As with most wood/finish combinations, it would behoove you to try the possible technique on a piece of scrap before screwing up the whole project. No one can tell you about the drying time, etc, because there are too many factors involved--altitude, temperature, humidity, moisture in the wood, chemicals in the poly. It goes on forever. You kinda have to feel your own way here after getting some general guidelines.
      Moon
      Old Mooner

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      • #4
        What will rubbing the round with some Danish oil do for me? I don't have time to do the poly thing although I will do some tests after X-mas. I'd like to give the round a dark, old tint to it like deadfall would look like. My top piece is unstained or treated red oak so I don't want to get it to dark.
        Confuscious says, "The cautious seldom err".
        Confuscious didn't own a scrollsaw either.

        Comment


        • #5
          Evidently from your post you have not glued the oak to the round. Beware any staining or top coat you put on the round will make it more difficult to glue the top piece to it. As far as Danish oil goes it is a penetrating oil. Depends on the color you use but if you use the natural it will tint the round a yellowish color which is a warm color. Now the Danish oil will take a couple days to dry depending the temp and the amount of coats. If using just one coat I say 2 days is good because it will soak into it real fast. Now if you are looking for a greyish color you are better to stain it. Let dry for a day and then where you will glue the oak piece just lightly sand that area so to get a good glue surface. Then if you want to top coat do as I suggested before. I hope I am understanding you correctly.
          John T.

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