I am new to scrolling but will be making puzzles and toys for children. I have read that the best oil to use for finishing is salad oil because it is non toxic in case the tykes chew on it. I'd love to be enlightened as to whether this is an old wives tale or is true.
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Finish for childrens toys and puzzles
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I would be disinclined to use a vegetable or cooking oil because it won't dry out fully and most oils of that nature will eventually go rancid. Added to which, they'll need repeat applications.
There are commercially prepared oils and paints that are certified as being suitable for children and I'd suggest you use one of those instead.
GillThere is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted.
(Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)
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I think you are refering to the salad bowl finish. That is their big claim. That is nothing more than a poly. As for safety all finishes become safe when properly cured which take time. Just because a project is dry it is not cured. One thing to stay away from is any products such as BLO or Danish oils tung oils, or things of that nature that cure much more slowly and at times never are cured. You would want latex paints, polys and lacquers. Hope this helps.John T.
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Food safe finish - Urban Legend
According to Bob Flexner author of Understanding Wood Finishing. There is no such thing as Food Safe finish. As long the finish has completely cured and that all the solvent has evaporated (at least 30 days) ALL finishes are food safe. This is from the time when lead was used in paint and finishes. Back then it was true...Not anymore.
This is one of the things I learn form his book (By the way, it is edited by Fox Chapel Publiching, owners of the SSWS forum and magazine). I recommend this book.Last edited by boogatoo; 12-06-2005, 07:14 AM.
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It would be truly helpful if all publications were to clearly state on each pattern "enlarge pattern by x% for full size" or something like that which would clue the user in. But I'm like Rolf....I change the size of every pattern to get what I want.
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Channel: General Scroll Saw
Today, 10:59 AM -
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by RolfI agree with you Mark, I am constantly changing or adapting my patterns to suit my taste or the size of the wood that is available to me. Thinking about electronic versions of the patterns, that would be great. But very hard to control. It amazes me how many people have no scruples about sharing....
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Channel: General Scroll Saw
Today, 09:46 AM -
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Reply to Peanuts #1by RolfBruce I just looked up the Pegas blade and the Flying Dutchman puzzle blade.
Pegas TPI 28.2 Thickness .087" Width .0236"
FD TPI 31 Thickness .08 Width.023
So the Flying Dutchman is a bit thinner , not sure it would make a significant difference. Three teeth per...-
Channel: Scroll Saw Puzzles
Today, 09:26 AM -
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Optical illusion segmentation - simple project. I used birch plywood 1/6 inch, mdf for background and wood stains, also could be made of 3 types of wood.
Project size 6 x 5,5 inches
And my collection of such trivets
Video of making trivet
Trivet pattern
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Channel: Intarsia, Inlay, and Segmentation
Today, 09:08 AM -
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by Quartz43Perhaps, we could hear from Fox. Maybe they could try some things and see if it makes things better. Or, they can just keep doing the things the same way.
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Channel: General Scroll Saw
Yesterday, 09:54 PM -
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