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  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Just a point of info to clarify some of the info given. If you are going to whitewash with a stain wheather it is waterbase or not here I would not use waterbase but if you do as with any undercoat it will raise the grain and needs a lite sanding and make sure all dust is removed before top coating. As far as shellac goes do not use a waxed shellac you want a dewaxed shellac with water base lacquer or poly. That is important!!!! I would recomend Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat. Best stuff on the market. Cleans up with denatured alcohol and is not too bad oder wise. Then if top coating with a water base lacquer sand litely before top coating and no need to sand between coats with lacquer. I like to finish sand with micro-mesh 12000 to give a nice feel and smoothe look.

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  • Gill
    replied
    Many thanks for the advice, guys - water based lacquer seems to be quite readily available so I think I'll be going down that route.

    It's a good job I asked before using an oil!

    Gill

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    oaklysawyer,

    My bad, I typed faster than I could think, I did mean 'lacquer.' Thanks for catching that.

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  • oaklysawyer
    replied
    Water base shellac
    A water base shellac or anything water base
    New one on me. Never heard of shellac thinned with anything but methyl hydrate. Interesting. Got list of suppliers and some specs ?
    Fred

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Gill
    What would be a durable finish for maple that would preserve its color? (It's for an occassional table rather than a piece of scrollwork .) I've got tung oil, Danish oil and boiled linseed oil to hand.

    Gill
    A water base shellac or anything water base would do best. I have found that if you want to keep the grain and the white-ish look of maple is to stain it white...very light coat. I use Winter White water base, and then I sealed the piece with a Oil based varnish. Worked out great. You might may also want to try a white-wash type treatment.

    Experiment on some scrap.... whatever you decide to try.

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  • jttheclockman
    replied
    All 3 will put a yellow tint to it. None of the mention is a top coat and will provide no protection at all. You do not mention clear coating it for the actual protection. You can use any of the 3 mentioned and top coat with a poly or a lacquer. For a non yellow look a clear shellac with a water base poly or waterbase lacquer.

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  • Gill
    started a topic Maple

    Maple

    What would be a durable finish for maple that would preserve its color? (It's for an occassional table rather than a piece of scrollwork .) I've got tung oil, Danish oil and boiled linseed oil to hand.

    Gill

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