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Oil Finish's ,Danish,Tung,Teak.

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  • Oil Finish's ,Danish,Tung,Teak.

    Question about these products,I have used the tung oil and have good rersults...not sure about the Danish and the Teak. Is there a simple way to tell when and what results may be good.The other item is brush on that any good?
    Be the good,
    you want to see in the world...

  • #2

    I hate to sound flippant, but it depends on what you are looking for which of these (or any) finishes you use. Tung, teak, Danish, walnut, etc all give good, and different, finishes on different species of wood. I think the best way to make up your mind is to buy a very small can/bottle of each and apply it to different places on the same board. Personally, I stay away from laquer because it is very hard to use correctly and is generally more toxic than other finishes. I used to "hand-rub" tung oil into furniture I was making because the heat of your hand and the friction made the oil penetrate the wood for a smooth gloss on the wood. Now, of course, they tell you to use gloves, etc,etc, and no more "hand-rubbed" finishes I guess.
    Old Mooner


    • #3
      A good finish is in the eyes of the beholder. It is true it depends on the look you are after. All the finishes you mentioned are basically a linseed oil with mineral spirits and poly mixed in. Some dryers are added to let the piece dry. These will give a piece a nice warm glow depending on the amount of coats applied. They may require additional coats as years go by to bring back the luster. As far as lacquer goes I only use water base lacquers from now on because they are far more friendlier to the enviroment and the brain cells. When I use a lacquer as a top coat I only use BLO which is boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits mixed at a 50/50 mixture. Let dry for 4 or 5 days and coat with a spray on water base lacquer of 2 or 3 coats. If I use Danish oil which gives a more hand rubbed look I coat with 2 coats wiping excess off till dry. Then buff with a lint free cloth. Great look. I do not like the look of poly on a piece for to me it is too plastic looking. Not sure if this helps but if you have further questions be more specific and we will be glad to help.
      John T.


      • #4

        If you search the entire forum here you will come across several threads with BLO and BLO 50/50; Boiled Linseed Oil, or a mixture, as John's thread above explains very well.

        If you do any solid wood fretwork, you will find the grain acting very strange to finishes. That is because edge-grain, end-grain, and what-ever-grain is exposed all over the place in your fret work. Also you will find it hard to apply finish in the tight corners, and sharp narrow interior cuts.

        The lowest labor intensive finish method, which also provides good results on fretwork, is just getting a shallow pan, filling with BLO (or BLO mixture) and dipping your project in, let soak a few minutes and hang up to dry. Pat excessive BLO off to prevent runs and sags. After a few hours, repeat as many times as you feel needed.

        BLO should be allowed three days to fully dry, but 90 days minimum to cure.

        Just remember, with fretwork, people will notice the cutting and scroll work, the finish is secondary. (Unless you have a specific need for a different "look" or other finish concern.)



        • #5
          Oil Finishes

          all for your responces and your valuable inputs. I do like the warm look the tung oil gives, and I will do some experimenting with these other types of finishes. Looks like I'll be busy! Thanks again.
          Be the good,
          you want to see in the world...


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