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  • 3_M
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    OK,

    I also will admit that it works but man did it go slow. I than took the same blade and cut it with the teeth and Randy you might want to cut with a blade backwards but not me. With the tape, it cuts nice and clean and the blade just kept going like the bundy does.
    A skil saw blade is a lot thicker and that might work better.
    When I said in an earlier post that it did not work, I had the wrong plexi. So I will retract that statement.

    Mike M

    Leave a comment:


  • Dena F
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    Randy,
    Thank you for explaining the process and the tip. I guess I'll have to explore.
    Dena

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkplug
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    Randy,
    I also retract my doubts on the backward blade cutting plexiglass idea. I based my thought on the fact that even blades with no teeth that are made for cutting styrofoam with a jigsaw have a pointed chisel type 'front' on them and I figured the the same principle would have to apply to a scrollsaw.
    I have cut lots of plexiglass with a scrollsaw in the same way as 3_M Mike suggested so I really have no desire to try another way but for anyone that wants to try it with a backward blade, I hope it works and maybe they will post their experiences with it.
    Sparky.

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    IRe: Plastiglas

    Randy

    Sorry to hear about the planer. This could mean a new toy for Christmas. Maybe the knives became dislodged and just need reseating. Hard to bend the cutter head I would think even if you try planing too much wood it would just stall. I would like to get a new planer myself but am interested in the one that has the spiral cutting head like the jointers have but for the life of me I can't remember where I read this and who's brand it is. I will be going to a wood show in 2 weeks so maybe some info there. Boy that is a dangerous place to go. Like a kid in a candy shop!!!! I think I will leave the credit cards home this time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    Thanks John, there are alot of things you pick up over the years and alot of them sound unbelievable. Thanks for trying and posting the results, I didn't get a chance to do the picture thing. I discovered my planer had been loaned to a neighbor who destroyed it when I was out of town. The SOB put it back in the shop and didn't say anything to my wife who let him borrow it. I don't know what he did, but I ruined about a foot of a nice 1x8 (rough sawn) red oak before I realized it wasn't cutting right.

    Have you even seen a planer take gouges out of a board all the way across, skip about a 1/4 inch and do it again? The gouges are about an inch or so wide. I'm guessing the cutter head is bent or something.

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    OK RANDY

    I am going to be the first to sayI AM SORRY TO DOUBT YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I tried your method and it does work. I tried cutting pleiglass mirror with a #7 blade and it did a fine job cutting but I had to push rather hard and if I used a smaller blade I feel it might break. You learn something everyday. I should have been more open to this idea because as an electrician we use mason's string line to cut PVC pipe. Now will I use this method to cut plastic I would have to say no because when you use the right blade and speed of saw there is no problem. But it would make a good bar bet. Thanks for the tip. I have to say that is one I never heard of except with a tablesaw blade and miter saw. :-[ :-[ :-[

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    I've cut 1/8 inch on my scrollsaw using dremel blades from Walmart with no problem - blade backwards! In my last post I explained how I came about this discovery in the first place.

    I've got a microwave cart and a wall shelf to build this weekend, if I can make good time, I'll setup my scroll saw and take some pictures and possibly a short video (my camera does like 20 or 30 second videos) and see if I can't make it easier for ya'll to understand.

    Also yes, I do know a jigsaw and scroll saw are two different tools, I've used both and one hell of a lot more over the last 40 plus years!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkplug
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    3_M Mike,
    Whether it is a jig saw or a scrollsaw the blade has teeth on the front and is flat on the back. I also cannot for the life of me imagine how using the back of the blade would work . It would be lucky to cut styrofoam or paper on the back of the blade so I am not even going to try a backward bade on anything.
    Sparky

    Leave a comment:


  • 3_M
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    Hi Randy,

    I just tried it on my scroll saw with a # 5 blades.  IT DOES NOT WORK.  It heats up very bad and the kerf melted right back together.

    Now about what you have been doing.  You are talking about a jig saw.  That is a complete different tool as a scroll saw.  Jig saw blades don't even come close to a scroll saw blade.  Jig saw blades are much thicker, they can not be used to make ornaments, the inside cuts are too small for a jig saw blade.

    Randy, do you have a scroll saw?  If yes, could you try it on your scroll saw and let us know who it worked for you.

    Mike M

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    The edges of the blade do the cutting. I learned this trick while in the army trying to cut plexi with a jig saw. I was making an inside cut and it welded itself back together as I cut. So I cut it again with the same problem. On the third try, I happened to pull the saw back towards me and the cut opened right up, so I recut again only backwards, the piece dropped right out. So just to try it, I turned the blade around and cut the scrap piece using the back of the blade, it made a near perfect cut.

    The next several cuts I made were done with the blade backwards, I just used acouple swipes with a flat file to clean up.

    This is something you'll have to try yourself to believe it! I've used this technique on plexi from 1/8 - 3/4 inch with excellent results.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sparkplug
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    3_M Mike,
    It took a few minutes to catch on about the 4 months early. You must have meant April Fools day about the backward scrollsaw blade ? ? ?
    : :P
    Sparky

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    I am with the others on this one I have never heard of putting a scrollsaw blade in backwards. You can't cut anything without teeth can you????????? You maybe thinking of turning a tablesaw blade backwards and cutting plexiglass, in that case that works but with carbide teeth. As far as the edges being sharp there is no way around that. It is the nature of the beast. To eliminate the edges on the top and bottom the best way is to sandwich the plexiglass between two pieces of scraps such as 1/8' plywood or scrap paneling. Outside edges can be sanded but to do all interior cuts would be too time consuming. Try the sandwich thing you will like it. Mike is right on again about the right blade for cutting plexiglass and slowing the speed down. The packing tape is also a good trick for any cutting.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3_M
    replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    Hi Randy,

    That is the best kept secret about cutting plexi.  I don't understand how it works however.  Putting the blade in backwards?  No teeth? How do you get a wider kerf with the blade backwards?  The blade is only so wide.
    I'm sorry but I think your post must be too early, about 4 months maybe? John, do you know what I was asking?

    Mike

    PS, Dena, please email me.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    BoB,
    Thanks for your reply, I really don't think I'm having a melt together problem. I do have a Dremel Tool and it probably would work just fine on the outside edges, but the inside cuts I would not be able to use. My cuts are smooth, just sharp. Forgive me, but I'm going to address all reply here, rather than one by one.
    Mike,
    I probably will make an order for the Polar# 3 & 5 blade soon as you have suggested. I did use the clear packing tape, the plastic had a brown protective paper already on, so I glued the pattern on and added the clear on top of that. It was slow going, my little MicroLux scroll saw has 600 - 2700 SPM and speed was at about half. My blower had trouble keeping my line clear of the build up. I have done four ornaments in the plastic, they came out real nice with the blade I'm using, just sharpe edges. A fine crocus cloth is a sand paper (600 or 800) not sure which. I tried 1500 sand paper but found it left scratches on scraps tested.
    Will8989,
    Good luck with your Dragon, I had to change blades after the second ornament.
    Randy48
    If you turn the blade around to the flat side how does it cut the plastic? Sorry, I don't understand.
    Thank you all for your replies and suggestion. I have been reading the board for a while. Its a very nice place to come too. Thanks to all
    Dena F.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Re: Plastiglas

    OK here's how to cut plexi without it being able to melt back together - put the blade in backwards. It makes a wider and cleaner cut in the plastic, it won't weld itself back together, and cleans up nice and smooth with a plain old file.

    Leave a comment:

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