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  • #16
    Re: Plastiglas

    Thanks John, there are alot of things you pick up over the years and alot of them sound unbelievable. Thanks for trying and posting the results, I didn't get a chance to do the picture thing. I discovered my planer had been loaned to a neighbor who destroyed it when I was out of town. The SOB put it back in the shop and didn't say anything to my wife who let him borrow it. I don't know what he did, but I ruined about a foot of a nice 1x8 (rough sawn) red oak before I realized it wasn't cutting right.

    Have you even seen a planer take gouges out of a board all the way across, skip about a 1/4 inch and do it again? The gouges are about an inch or so wide. I'm guessing the cutter head is bent or something.

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    • #17
      IRe: Plastiglas

      Randy

      Sorry to hear about the planer. This could mean a new toy for Christmas. Maybe the knives became dislodged and just need reseating. Hard to bend the cutter head I would think even if you try planing too much wood it would just stall. I would like to get a new planer myself but am interested in the one that has the spiral cutting head like the jointers have but for the life of me I can't remember where I read this and who's brand it is. I will be going to a wood show in 2 weeks so maybe some info there. Boy that is a dangerous place to go. Like a kid in a candy shop!!!! I think I will leave the credit cards home this time.
      John T.

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      • #18
        Re: Plastiglas

        Randy,
        I also retract my doubts on the backward blade cutting plexiglass idea. I based my thought on the fact that even blades with no teeth that are made for cutting styrofoam with a jigsaw have a pointed chisel type 'front' on them and I figured the the same principle would have to apply to a scrollsaw.
        I have cut lots of plexiglass with a scrollsaw in the same way as 3_M Mike suggested so I really have no desire to try another way but for anyone that wants to try it with a backward blade, I hope it works and maybe they will post their experiences with it.
        Sparky.

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        • #19
          Re: Plastiglas

          Randy,
          Thank you for explaining the process and the tip. I guess I'll have to explore.
          Dena

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          • #20
            Re: Plastiglas

            OK,

            I also will admit that it works but man did it go slow. I than took the same blade and cut it with the teeth and Randy you might want to cut with a blade backwards but not me. With the tape, it cuts nice and clean and the blade just kept going like the bundy does.
            A skil saw blade is a lot thicker and that might work better.
            When I said in an earlier post that it did not work, I had the wrong plexi. So I will retract that statement.

            Mike M
            SD Mike

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            • #21
              Re: Plastiglas

              Well ---- now I'm concerned. I need to cut a lot of small PVC pipe to make some paint brush holders. Can't I just cut that on my scroll saw?
              If not, what should I use?

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              • #22
                Re: Plastiglas

                If I was going to cut a lot of pvc pipe, the first thing I'd try would be a tubing or pipe cutter. The kind plumbers use on copper pipe. Makes a nice smooth even cut. Leaves a little burr that can be easilly removed with the reamer included on most of the cutters. If you don't have one with a reamer, can be removed with a sharp knife or sandpape or ........

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                • #23
                  Re: Plastiglas

                  pvc pipe cutters (look like a pair of shears) are about 6.00 at home depot etc....easiest way to cut it!

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                  • #24
                    Re: Plastiglas

                    Nancy,
                    I cut some of the 3/4' PVC pipe for blade holders and always used my scroll saw with a Polar # 5 blade. You can use about any blade. Like Plain_Old_Ed is saying you can ream it out a little if you have to. I have some on my web site. Scroll down to my picture and you can see some clear once on a carousel and one I have screwed to the wall on an angel with the PVC pipe.
                    Mike M
                    SD Mike

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                    • #25
                      Re: Plastiglas

                      Nancy

                      Have no fear use anything to cut pvc pipe from scrollsaw, tablesaw, bandsaw, chop saw, hacksaw, pvc cutter or anything but all will require you to ream the inside and file the outside. You can use a sharp knife to do both things. The thing we got started talking about is the use of a scrollsaw blade backwards to cut plexiglass but I think 99% of the sawers out there will use the proper scrollsaw blade and cut with the teeth. It was a thought that someday may come in handy.
                      John T.

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                      • #26
                        Re: Plastiglas

                        If anybody cares .... lol ....
                        I've been cutting LOTS of PVC pipe, light weight and heavier weight, from 1/2' to 1 1/2' diameter on my scroll saw and it cuts like butter. I used the blade that was already in there -- very small, probably old, I don't know size or anything.

                        I did the 'reaming' with my thumb and forefinger. If there's a tough snag I clip it off with a knife - which seems to work better than sandpaper.

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                        • #27
                          Greg

                          I just tried to cut pvc with my scroll saw and it welded together behind the blade. How can I stop this? Is there a special blade for pvc?

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                          • #28
                            I've recently cut several acrylic panels for coin boxes. I used the method that Mike M described with a polar #3 blade. I ran the saw at a slower speed and everyone cut perfectly with no welding back together. There was virtually no bur to rub off.
                            Mick
                            I am always ready to learn although I do not always like being taught. Winston Churchill

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                            • #29
                              If you are CAREFUL with a small butane torch you can melt the edges takes the burr right off.
                              Rolf
                              RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                              Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                              Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                              And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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                              • #30
                                I'm with you Rolf. I always use my propane torch after I'm finished cutting a piece of Acrylic. About cutting Acrylic. I cut a lot of it & I use whatever blade I choose. Most of the time, I cut my pieces with a spiral blade. If I have a lot of sharp corners or v's to cut, then I might use the flat blade. The only time I had a problem with melting, was when I stack cut two 1/4 in. pieces. Even then it was only in one spot & didn't create a problem. My Acrylic that I use is covered on both sides with paper & no problem cutting. I do have a pain pealing the adhesive paper off after finishing the piece. Good Luck cutting backwards, I'm sticking with the old standard. Of coarse I'm spoiled with my Acrylic pieces, because it is all free. ( scraps of all colors ) Heh Heh !
                                PERK

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