No announcement yet.

Brazilian Cherry-Fast or Slow

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brazilian Cherry-Fast or Slow

    Time to mine the collective knowledge that resides here.

    I am getting ready to cut a presentation piece (speaker's gift) from 7/8" (20mm) Brazilian Cherry and am in a bit of a time crunch--so sanding must be kept to a minimum. Piece is attached to the board, doubled taped and drilled and weather permitting, I hope to start cutting tomorrow evening.

    I am planning to use FD UR blades--either #3 or #5--and am seeking advise on fast blade speed vs slower blade in the material. Piece does not contain really tight corners, but some of the cuts will be too small to get sandpaper into once they are cut.

    Willing to listen to any and all suggestions. Thanks in advance.
    When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
    Too early to leave, too late to call in.

  • #2
    I would go with the # 3. I think they cut circles around the #5. Use a fast saw speed and a slow feed and there shouldn't be any sanding at all other than the usual fuzzies on the bottom.
    May the wind at you back .....
    Not be from Lunch.

    Don't take life too seriously; No one gets out alive.

    Beauty is in the eye of the BEERHOLDER

    Visit My Gallery

    Oily's Gallery


    • #3
      Brazilian cherry is very hard wood, so use whatever has worked for you in the past. I find the larger blades give me more cutting power than the smaller ones, but I've read a lot of different opinions on that. I think fast speeds are usually better than slow ones for thick wood. Maybe Mike will have an opinion, since he's the blade "guru".

      However, it looks really great once finished, and is worth the work.

      Follow me on my blog:


      • #4
        I love cherry, and cut a lot of it, but it has a tendency to burn. If it does, it is a [email protected]$#ch to sand off the burn marks. I usually use a #5 skip tooth blade since they clear the kerf better and I usually use a medium speed, 1300-1500 spm. If I have to use a smaller blade or a reverse tooth blade, I really slow down the speed to perhaps 1200 spm to reduce my chances of burning edge. Most importantly, keep a sharp blade in the saw. As soon as it begins to dull, change it. You'll know it is getting dull when your cutting speed decreases markedly.
        Hope this helps.

        A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine.

        delta 650, hawk G426


        • #5
          There is a lot of difference between cherry and Brazilian Cherry.
          "All it Takes For the Forces of EVIL to Rule Is For Enough GOOD People To DO NOTHING!"

          Saws: Excaliber 30; Dewalt 788 'Twins', Makita SJ401 (Retired), Grizzly G1012 18" Bandsaw


          • #6
            That stuff cuts like a rock if you ask me! I'd use a #7 and let the blade do the cutting - resist the urge to shove it through.


            • #7
              I use a FD-UR #9 for wood like Brazilian cherry. I once had to scrap a project because even my #12s couldn't make a dent.

              Follow me on my blog:


              • #8
                I have used the FD-HD on some 1 inch thick Brazilian Cherry but it is very slow going working with Brazilian Cherry. Let us know what you find Jim, I have not tried the other blades on it yet but I do have quite a bit of Brazilian Cherry left.

                Good luck with the project.

                In God we trust, all others must pay cash!

                I don't want no bargains, they always cost me more money.


                Unconfigured Ad Widget


                Latest Topics


                • will8989
                  Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
                  by will8989
                  Regulations are 150 square feet, this will be 144 square feet so we are good. He’s making it that size Since the sheets are 4’ wide. And the Shelves need to be 4” above my head!! It will be very specific.
                  Today, 10:32 AM
                • Sandy Oaks
                  Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                  by Sandy Oaks
                  As a framer, we have a shrinker wrapper at ArtCrafters. Very simple. Film on a roller, sealer attached, just roll off enough film, seal the film, insert object, seal other end and shrink with a heat gum. We also use Uline as a source. Not sure where our unit can from as it was with the shop when...
                  Today, 09:46 AM
                • NC Scroller
                  Reply to Bruce, the one on probation
                  by NC Scroller
                  I would make the shed 1" less than the size permits are required for. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS TOO MUCH SPACE....
                  Today, 07:42 AM
                • NC Scroller
                  Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                  by NC Scroller
                  I shrink wrap all my puzzles. It is the best method I have found. I do not use a cardboard backer as some do. I use shrink wrap bags that I get from Amazon or Ebay. 8" x 12" will fit 95% of the puzzles I make.

                  To use the bags you will need a sealer. I have one very similar...
                  Today, 07:39 AM
                • Linda In Phoenix
                  Reply to Shrink wrap systems
                  by Linda In Phoenix
                  I checked out We used them years ago at the company I used to work at, and they were really reputable to work with. They have machines, guns, bags, and film. I just don't really know what works best, as well as if there is a really great priced to buy from. To date I've been a frugal...
                  Yesterday, 10:01 PM