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  • Sawing boards from logs

    A large red oak fell behind my house last week. I am planning on claiming some of the smaller logs to slice them on the band saw. The question I have is should I dry the logs before I cut into boards or saw first and dry the boards after?
    Dan

    -Just do'in the best I can every day

  • #2
    Owler:

    The bark on a tree is water proof. Insects just love logs with the bark on them and not split.

    By rough sawing into timber as soon as the tree is down, allows some of the moisture to dry out. This will deny the bugs a drink of sugar sap and a place to lay their eggs.

    You could, if you wanted, de-bark the logs and achieve the same goals, but it really is easier to use power tools to rough saw the timber than use a hand tools to de-bark. Plus draw knifes are dangerous after an hour of using them and your arms get tired.

    BTW: rough sawing allows the lumber to warp, twist, and rack which you remove when you surface and joint the wood to make it dimensional lumber. Don't forget to sticker the wood for drying. 1 year drying for each inch thick.
    Paint the end-grain. Best to use special timber drying paint, but any paint will help save the end grain splints.

    Phil

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    • #3
      Follow Phils advice. And, cut it thick enough to be able to still get a useful thickness after it dries and needs machining. Dale
      Dale w/ yella saws

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      • #4
        Thanks for the advice. I will try some of the smaller pieces just for kicks.
        Dan

        -Just do'in the best I can every day

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        • #5
          Ok here is a question. I bought a chain saw bar and chain that fits on are Skill saw. it goes in the place where the round blade goes. you hold it flush with the wood. and you can split wood with it.or saw thinner slises, from a log. its a 16" barr. we have not used it yet , becouse it looks so scary. but not haveing a set up to rip big logs. it just looked like a cool thing. Has anyone ever used one of these things. and if so. could you school me in how to use it safly.? I am worrying about kick back. does this thing do that. I will try to find where i bought it and show a pictuer. but for now. i would like some feed back

          your friend Evie

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          • #6
            Umm, to me that sounds like a deadly piece of equipment. I cant imagine grabbin the circular saw to cut something with 16 inches of exposed chain screaming at what speed? 3000+ rpms? No thanks!!!! Thats what real lumber mills are for! I'd call Bill and Sandy Peterson and order up my wood, and save my body parts. Dale
            Dale w/ yella saws

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            • #7
              That does sound dangerous...I've cut some wood with a chainsaw set up to cut planks...but I wouldn't know where to start with that tool.

              A few initial thoughts...I wouldn't use it on an inexpensive circular saw...I've burned up circ. saws cutting oak with a regular blade; that chainsaw setup is bound to put more stress on the electric motor

              Clamp down the wood (off the ground) and stand with the biggest part of the wood between you and the blade.

              Wear a face mask and kevlar chaps...and hearing protection!

              Remember that it is a chainsaw, which will kick back. Just make sure nothing is in the area where it will kick back!

              Bob
              www.GrobetUSA.com

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              • #8
                We find it best to cut the logs and let them dry before resawing. It reduces warpage. We have a carriage with a clamp that holds the log and slice off the pieces with a 16inch bandsaw.

                One of the issues with using a chainsaw mill is you lose quite a lot of wood with the thickness of the balde.
                If thats not an issue then no problem.

                The wood we slice is stored in a basement with sticks between each piece. A fan speds up the drying process.
                There is still a fair amount of moisture left in the logs even if they have been seasoned for a year.
                CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

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                • #9
                  Evie:

                  Is this something like what you are talking about?

                  http://www.praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

                  (BTW: designed for use with worm screw saws, not direct drive circular saw.)

                  Gosh, I get the 'willies' just thinking about using that leg killer.

                  Please, use chapps.

                  Phil

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                  • #10
                    I would need to use two hands to control that thing and circular saws only have one handle. I'll pass.
                    Dan

                    -Just do'in the best I can every day

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by GrayBeard Phil
                      Evie:

                      Is this something like what you are talking about?

                      http://www.praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

                      (BTW: designed for use with worm screw saws, not direct drive circular saw.)

                      Gosh, I get the 'willies' just thinking about using that leg killer.

                      Please, use chapps.

                      Phil
                      Yes Phil, that looks like it. are saw is like that too. but longer. with 2 handales. My hubby said , he had guys useing them all the time on job sights. on big header stock. but i thought it would be nice to try ripping with. maybe i wont try, i would like to keep my lems too LOL.
                      maybe i will look for a bigger band saw, and just stay with milling regular boards. are band saw only rips 6" boards. just learning, you know i just wont it all. Im such a tool junkie. but I do listen to my friends, thats why i come in here. thanks alot to everyone who replyed.

                      Evie Ps if you are confused to the differant us names. well I finaly got my old account again. lost it for a while.

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