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Best method for cutting plexi/acrylix backer

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  • Best method for cutting plexi/acrylix backer

    I have two projects that im doing for an upcoming scrollsaw event here in Australia that im using plexi as a backing.

    One of the pieces is a small natural edge piece of red mallee burl and the other is a oval shape that was cut on some rosewood.

    I know its best to cut the plexi with the paper still on, but that presents an issue for getting the plexi to exactly match the front pieces edge.

    I see my options as:
    1. Remove the paper and adhere the plexi to the front piece and then slowly cut around the edge so they match.

    2. Trace around the edge onto the paper and slowly cut out, then adhere to the front piece. Any deviation from the line may stand out in this case.

    So, any thoughts on what the best approach would be?
    3
    Go with Option 1
    33.33%
    1
    Go with Option 2
    33.33%
    1
    Niether.. there is a better way..
    33.33%
    1
    Brett

    Only Robinson Crusoe could get everything done by Friday!!

  • #2
    Use a blade with no reverse teeth. Add a layer of masking tape atop the protective film on the acrylic. either double side tape it to the back of the piece with the pattern attached, or tape around the perimeter, then cut out. After cutting it out, carefully seperate them, and remove the protective film and extra tape.Use a good quality blade with no reverse teeth (I use a FD Polar, dont know if you have access to them though). Change blades BEFORE you notice the stuff melting.This way it should match up perfectly at glueup time. Any chance we get a sneak peek at your project???????? Dale
    Dale w/ yella saws

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    • #3
      As for the oval one I would just glue or tape the plexi and the wood together with the paper still on and then cut out the oval as one piece, all deviation will be the same in both pieces then.
      Remover the paper and the pattern and glue the two together.

      The burl is a bit trickier. You do not want to cut any of the burls edge off. I think I would trace around the burl, cut the plexi separately and fasten them both together when they are done.

      I think any deviations will be masked with the natural irregular edges of the burl.

      So being the usual fence sitter I wil lsay option 4 both of the above


      If all else fails get it done by Friday
      CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
      "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
      Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

      Comment


      • #4
        Brett . I have no clue. that is someting in my future. something I would like to do. but know nothing about. I will learn from your quistion too. thanks for asking it. I will watch this thread like a hock. your friend Evie

        Comment


        • #5
          You will need to cut fairly slow as the blade will melt the plastic and stick back together on you if cutting to fast.If you have a variable speed saw turn the speed down and go slow. When I cut back backing for a project I trace the piece then cut 1\8" inside the line to make it just a tad smaller than the front piece.
          Here is a site that has info on cutting plastic http://www.scrollsaws.com/.
          Last edited by B Smith; 04-19-2006, 08:44 PM.
          Smitty
          Dewalt 788

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks all for the advice, will see which works best and will let you know the results.

            Dale,
            I can probably manage a sneek preview of my entries
            Brett

            Only Robinson Crusoe could get everything done by Friday!!

            Comment

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