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  • How do I

    if I take a 1 inch piece of poplar and resaw it to 1/4 inch ( thicknes wise)
    what glue would be the best to glue the strips to make the piece as wide as I need it?
    I took a long awaited trip yesterday to Home Depot to spend my light bill money on a piece of poplar -- man has prices jumped in the last 6 months. any way all I could get was 1 inch thick but I want 1/4 inch thick --soooooooooo I thought I'd just resaw to make it the thickness I want -but my band saw is only a 9 inch which means I can get almost a 6 inch board under it .---- not going to waste any more than I have to I figure I can get 2 for the price of one and a good 1/8 inch besides for what one board cost me..but now I know good old carpenters glue will give me the hold I need but it is yellowish when dry-- would that show after I cleaned up the excess seepage and sanded it? If it does then what glue should I use? I am hoping to get the good wood I need to make my fret work and try not to use the BBP I have been using as it has begun to chip out the top or bottom veener no matter what I do to prevent it.. I am thinking it is because it is keeped in my house and it was to dry so it has made the wood I have go bad -- or it could be that it was a bad board to start with and am just now getting to the weak parts. Either way I want to use poplar for baskets and such ,,

    Sharon

  • #2
    Sharon....I'm going to try to get out to MCM Moulding again Monday. I'll pick up the 1/4 inch poplar we talked about. Email the dimensions you'd like and I'll glue some up for you before I send it. It comes in 5 1/2 inch widths so I could go up to 16 1/2 inches wide if that's what you need. Also include your address as I cleaned out my in box and lost it since our last communication. As far as glue goes, I use the yellow Elmer's carpenters glue. The trick is a thin coat of glue on one edge only so it doesn't squeeze out when clamped. It's virtually impossible to sand off and will show up under the finish even if you wipe it off before it dries, especially if you're going to stain the wood.
    If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!

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    • #3
      Sharon, it sounds like Neal's got ya covered! If I were doing the glueup, I would use titebond II . dale
      Dale w/ yella saws

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      • #4
        Hi Sharon. looks like Neal has you all fixed up. I am still trying out new glues, and also like the titebond glues. but have not tryed the #11.
        Dale dose it dry clear? I too would like to know.
        and one thing I would like to add to glueing boards together is. when we do it. we make a shiplap cut on both pieces. running your boards over your tabale saw blade. about 1/8 inch deep. along the sides you wont to glue. one blade wide. that is so , you have more space to glue. rather than just a but joint. if you cut a little bit wider than 1/4 on your band saw, while ripping your board, you can sand off the excess. or plane it smooth. you can still get 2- 1/4 boards out of 3/4s . if you try to cut 3-1/4 boards , you will lose the blade kerf width. leaving you with less than 1/4. if that matters in your project. hope this helps. your friend Evie
        Last edited by minowevie; 04-04-2006, 03:30 PM.

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        • #5
          Woops, just read back , and noticed you said 1" .. mmmm forget all the 3/4 stuff. lol well Im trying ,all the other stuff aplys your friend Evie

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          • #6
            Thanks Neal but anything biger than 6 inches is appreciated --- I do have a lot of baskets and picture frames and such that I want to do along with portrates --
            Evie-- your ideas are right on but I don't own a planer and I am staying away from my table saw. I have the end of my - excuse the language to whom ever it applies ) my nose picking finger cut off because of my talents with the table saw .. seems it has a mind bigger than me.... I have gotten bit by the band saw bug and I love using it-- just don't know how to do a lot with it --but I can resaw the heck out of anything and since mine has a fence I can keep my thickness even --but I don't use my table saw now for anything but a place to put things on when I am scrolling. I thinka lot of my trouble with the table saw is I can't stand well enough to be very good at it and it is too high for me in my chair..
            Sharon

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            • #7
              OOps I forgot to answer Dale -- Sweet sweet dale -- I noticed tite bond yesterday but I didn't get any because I didn't really think about buying glue- so which of the tite bonds do I need to get? I noticed there are a lot to choose from and to be honest right now reading tiny lables isn't going so good --so just tell me what it is called or the color label ..
              Sharon

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              • #8
                I just prefer titebond II . No it dont dry clear, but a well fitted joint should blend in with the grain for the most part.Im not positive, as I never really noticed, but Im 90% sure its blue lable. For gluing scrolling woods together, any yella glue should be fine, as more then likely the wood will never get wet. The titebond II is water resistant, not waterproof, thee is a diffrence, trust me. Evie, the ship lap is a good idea, the more gluing surface, the stronger your joint will be. I havent ever done that. Maybe you could explain exactly how you set up the tablesaw to get good crisp joints to glue together, I will try it. Dale
                Dale w/ yella saws

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                • #9
                  Pretty much any white glue will work, but the edges have to be perfect. The link below explains how I joined the 2 piece mandolin top in the picture, resawing with a little 9" saw. Oh yeah - scroll saw context - that's how I did the sound hole...

                  my cheap plate joining setup
                  Attached Files
                  -Andy

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                  • #10
                    Sharon, Here's another option if you have a few extra bucks, We bought a riser? for our band saw and I can resaw up to 12" wide. Don't know if that's the correct technical term, hubby takes care of the technical stuff, but in the long run it has save me much money. I think it cost around $100 but resawing wood to the desired thickness is really much cheaper than buying the already cut wood, plus you don't have to use a joinder and glue together. You would also have to buy larger blades for the bandsaw. Now of course, hubby had to made some sort of sled or something for the wood to run straight through and not angle off (he had a sled for everything). Again, I think I got the technical terms on that right. If your interested in the sled thingy let me know and I'll get the site hubby got the directions to make it from. I believe it was from David Marks on DYI.

                    Betty
                    Betty

                    "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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                    • #11
                      set up table saw

                      Originally posted by lucky788scroller
                      I just prefer titebond II . No it dont dry clear, but a well fitted joint should blend in with the grain for the most part.Im not positive, as I never really noticed, but Im 90% sure its blue lable. For gluing scrolling woods together, any yella glue should be fine, as more then likely the wood will never get wet. The titebond II is water resistant, not waterproof, thee is a diffrence, trust me. Evie, the ship lap is a good idea, the more gluing surface, the stronger your joint will be. I havent ever done that. Maybe you could explain exactly how you set up the tablesaw to get good crisp joints to glue together, I will try it. Dale
                      Dale this is how we do it. set up the tabale saw that is. first make sure you have a nice straight edg on your board. then , bolt or screw , a piece of wood on your tabale saw fence. about 4" buy ?? long.ply wood or what ever. then push the fence all the way up to your saw blade , set the deapth of your blade, 1/2 the thickness of your board you wont to make a ship lap on. then snub up againsed the wooden fence and cut away. it only has to be as wide as the width of you blade. them glue and clamp it like you would a but joint. i normaly put pipe clamps on mine. I like the pipe clamps , because you can use the pipe to hold your wood and the clamping heads can get real close. also i put at leased one on the opposite side , to help it from bowing. after it sets up. then i use a belt sander to smooth it out. hope this made sence to ya. I love this type of joint, for 1 reason , if ever you do need to fill a joint that does have any spaces. or pulls apart. it wont let any light though and its easyer to fill. it is a very strong joint. your friend Evie

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                      • #12
                        glues

                        Sharon. gosh i didn't know you are in a chair: I don't blame you for staying away from that tabale saw. not only can it cut you. but fling the wood backwords. then you could loose more than your nose picking finguer , but you could lose you nose. now that would be horabale.
                        I just started using my band saw for resawing. wow is that cool. your right you can get pretty clean cuts. papper thin too. thanks to one of the older post. on the resawing. links. http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker...s/200008/main/
                        also I went and looked at the glues yesterday . and the only differants in the reagular tite bond and the #11 is the 11 is water resistant.indoor or outdoor. but the color is the same. the one thing i like about titebond. is it is a fast tack. but I like just old yellow Elmers glue still the best for most things. Aleens have many glues too. but i have never used them on wood yet. anyway good luck. your friend Evie

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                        • #13
                          Evie, thank you, you made that crystal clear. You do the complete joint on the TS. I have a router, which also would work I guess. I will try this sometime on a project or three. Thanks. One other question, have you ever did a spline joint? with a spline the thickness of the blades width? Seems to me on some thinner wood that too would work super! Thanks again, dale
                          Dale w/ yella saws

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                          • #14
                            EVIE-- That link that you have is the link that convenced me to buy a band saw and I can say I am not sorry I did --can't say that for my table saw -lol.
                            You are so smart on your wood and you sound like you could teach us all a lot about a lot of things,, I can see you are indeed one valueble asset to this forum.
                            your friend ..
                            Sharon

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by lucky788scroller
                              Evie, thank you, you made that crystal clear. You do the complete joint on the TS. I have a router, which also would work I guess. I will try this sometime on a project or three. Thanks. One other question, have you ever did a spline joint? with a spline the thickness of the blades width? Seems to me on some thinner wood that too would work super! Thanks again, dale
                              Dale. I was wondering myself , if a router would make the same cut. don't see why not. as long as the wood was clamped down good. maybe sharon could do that. but then a butt joint is good too.
                              I am not familiar with a spline joint. how does that work? is it like a toung and grove? or is it a grove cut in both pieces of wood with a piece of wood or cain in the middale of the groves??? ps yes i do the whole joint on the tabale saw.

                              Your so sweet Sharon. you always make my day. I learn from you too. that link was a good one . wish I could remember who posted it first. I sure wont to thank him- her.
                              Your friend Evie
                              Last edited by minowevie; 04-04-2006, 03:50 PM.

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