Is it the oak, blades or me?

[Capt Weasel Member - Level 2 Find all posts View Profile Close Capt Weasel]

Trying to cut some baskets for some x-mas presents out of some 3/4" Red Oak I had lying around. I'm a FD man but I ran out and am waiting on order to arrive. So I used some SEARS #5 reverse blades I had from when I first got started and didn't know about the FD's. Well the basket rings are about 12" around and it took 2 blades per ring to cut. Halfway through the oak would start chattering and jumping, blade got harder to feed to the point where the blade was flexing backwards and not side to side. I could see it moving back. All was tight. I slowed up on my feed rate and it seemed to help (lesson learnt). I got about 3/4 a ring done before blade change. I went through about 2 dz. blades cutting these baskets. I know the SEARS blades are not on par with the FD's because I cut the largest ring with a FD-PSR #7 and it cut at the end like it did in the beginning.
Is the Red Oak just that **** tough, SEARS blades just that **** bad, my feed rate just to **** fast or all **** 3?
I also noticed that where I cut that the edges look dark and dicolored. Almost burt and glassy looking. It's like that from the beginning cut with a new blade all the way around. Is that just how the oak's gonna look? I hope it'll sand out. I even used packing over my pattern to help eliminate burn.
My FD order should be in soon so I'm gonna try it again.

[3_M Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 3_M]

Hi Capt,

Did you get my email?

Mike M

[lucky788scroller Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lucky788scroller]

****,you are having the ****edest luck.Them **** sears blades are not much good,you wont be able to cut a **** thing decent with em.The oak shouldnt change colors from cutting,its the **** feed rate and dullness of your **** blades.Just wait, I think Mikes got some on his way. (sorry about all the ****s, I couldnt resist after reading his posting )

[Woodbutcher68 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Woodbutcher68]

The only thing Sears blades are good for is cutting your fingers!

[Capt Weasel Member - Level 2 Find all posts View Profile Close Capt Weasel]

Yep, I got it Mike and I sent 2 replies, thanks.
LOL Lucky!! I don't even think they would cut cheese, no wait, that was the dog when the shop doors were closed. Anyway, the inside edges were darker and glassy smooth and shiny and I want to say its almost burnt looking but not sure because it did it all the way around and from beginning to end with new blade or old. I want to say that the only cut I made with the FD did it to but not as obvious. I have an older 2 speed Delta 250, 2 speed as in High and Low and thats it. Don't know the rpm's nor how to find out. I was thinking it might be that but hen again I started out on slow then changed to high when I found it it cut better with better control.

[Neal Moore Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Neal Moore]

Red Oak

Red Oak can be a tough wood to cut. The thicker it is the more it tends to burn. Packaging tape helps a lot as does using the largest blade that will work for your project. Try #7 or #9 FD reverse tooth for the 3/4 inch stuff and make sure you feed the work directly into the blade and avoid side pressure. Smaller blades don't remove the dust from the kerf very well, on thicker stock, and tend to char the cuts especially in tight turns. It sounds as if you are locked in to only two choices of saw speed so you will want to try and reach a happy median as regards blade speed and feed rate. Too slow and it will burn, and if you try to feed the stock faster than the blade can cut the same thing will happen.

[Capt Weasel Member - Level 2 Find all posts View Profile Close Capt Weasel]

I decided to back up and punt and try again. Today I cut out a pattern from 1/4" oak with a FD-PSR#1. I used the packing tape and a slow feed rate, just enough to feel the blade cutting. It cut easier with alot more control and didn't burn a bit. Everything going so good I hated to quit. Well I know its not my 1/2" oak basket but I learned the right principle. Use a top quality blade, use proper blade size for the job, go slow and steady and use tape. Comparing todays work with the baskets I can now see that the baskets are burnt and I'm gonna have to do them again. This time I'll try a #3 FD and take my time. The SEARS blades are going in the trash.

[jttheclockman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jttheclockman]

If I may suggest if you have #5 FD blades you will be better off using them. I use the #5 on just about everything.

[Capt Weasel Member - Level 2 Find all posts View Profile Close Capt Weasel]

Will ya' get better control with an "oversize" blade as opposed to a regular sized one according to wood thickness? That #1 blade cut awful sweet on the 1/4" stuff with good control and very little wandering. I used it to cut a piece of 5/8" basswood with same result. I figured that if it cut too good and fast I'd have a better chance of wandering.

[jttheclockman Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jttheclockman]

First let me start by saying the charts for blades to use and thickness are only guides. It is true you can use any size blade in any size wood. The problem comes in with the density of the wood or other medium you are cutting. Also blades cut differently from one manufactor to the other unless they are made by the same company and just called something different. Tough for you to know that one. Different styles of blades such as skip tooth and double tooth and PG tooth blades of the same size cut differently. This has been discussed in other threads here so I won't go into this.

What I am basically saying it is each person's preferance as to what blades work well for them. We all learn what we like to use and sometimes the saw has something to do with this also. Some saws cut more aggresively than others. As far as more control it is something you will have to experiment with You mention bass wood 5/8 bass wood is soft like a pine but oak is a hard wood and 1/2" oak is getting to the point where you need a stiffer blade for deflextion reasons. Unless there is very intricate detail I would say try a #5 and a # 3 and see for yourself the difference. It is always better to use the largest blade you can for the detail of the project especially if there are alot of long straight cuts. Wood such as oak has heavy grain in it and the blade will follow the grain and with a thinnner blade it will have a tendency to bend with the grain as with a heavier blade it will cut through the grain.

Again please experiment with size blades and only use those charts for a starting purpose. I hate charts. They do not tell the whole story. Good luck.

[Capt Weasel Member - Level 2 Find all posts View Profile Close Capt Weasel]

I agree on the charts. I always use them as a starting point and go from there. I liked the feel of the #1 on the 1/4" oak and it cut the basswood almost to easy. Next time I cut some 1/2" oak I plan on trying a #3 to start with and go up to a #5 if neccessary. I plan on sticking with the FD-PSR's because they work good for me. I did find out as you stated that a larger blade cut straight lines better and I'm realizing that I might have to switch blade sizes in the middle of a project for a particular cut and not just do it all with 1 blade from beginning to end. Aww the lessons we learn as rookies!