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  • acrylic to walnut gluing

    what is the right choice.the acrylic is going to be glued inside a rabbet
    3
    silicone adhesive
    33.33%
    1
    epoxy
    33.33%
    1
    yellow wood glue
    0.00%
    0
    CA glue
    0.00%
    0
    Aielenes Tacky glue
    0.00%
    0
    poly glue
    0.00%
    0
    other
    33.33%
    1
    Dale w/ yella saws

  • #2
    Lucky, check out www.thistothat.com. Mick.
    Mick, - Delta P-20

    A smile is a small curve that straightens everything out.

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    • #3
      Mick. thistothat did not show acrylic
      I voted epoxy but could be wrong.
      Fred

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      • #4
        Now my choice would be no glue. You say it will be in a rabbit. Whenever I do that I do one of 2 things and it depends an what type of acrylic is used. By that is it a mirror or is it suppose to be translucent so light shines through. The 2 methods I use are either screw to the wood using small screws and predrilling holes in acrylic or the second method is to put a backer piece on and use clips to hold in place. I also do this with glass mirrors and stain glass and use window points to hold in place.

        You do not say what type acrylic you are using so you have to be careful of interaction. But if you must then silicon is my choice.
        John T.

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        • #5
          a description

          Ok,I am using mirroe acrylic,inside walnut wood. The parts are all small,and not square,but like arches and such. The wood is 1/4 thick,and there isnt enough room for me to feel comfortable using lil bitty screws or nails.My gut instinct is silicone ,but am curious what others would use.After one more coat of Deft I should be ready for the acrylic to be placed.
          Dale w/ yella saws

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          • #6
            OK you answered part of my question about 1/4" wood. Now with a rabbit you had to make at least 1/8" and left 1/8" of wood on the out side. The problem comes when glueing. You can not glue the mirror directly to the wood from the front for 2 reasons Too messy and will leave a gap. You would want to put the silicon on the back side. If you were to put a backer piece on the back you won't need any glue on the mirror. Here is an example that was done that way.

            Of course this is just my opinion. You are wise to seal it with a lacquer because if you just used Danish oil or BLO it will have a reaction with the mirror and cause stains on the mirror. Speaking from experience here. Good luck.
            John T.

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            • #7
              Confused.Is backer piece inset. How is backer fastened with clips. Would like picture of back side.

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              • #8
                Ok I will do my best to explain. Here is a picture of some projects that have the different methods I talked about.Now in the second picture is the backs of these items and it is pretty obvious to match them up.


                I am sorry for the quality of picture because I was in a hurry but you will get the jist and if there are further questions I will be happy to answer. On the large mirror being I need real good support and prtection the mirror is held in a rabbit with framing points and silicon with a backer board for protection of the glass.

                On the It's A Girl picture frame the backer piece is held in with 2 turnbuttons so as to be able to access the photos.

                On the back of the roses which were in question there is a routing of the entire piece 1/8" deep with a 1/4" border all around to glue a pice of backer to keep the plexiglass mirror in. This is accomplished using a router and a straight bit to the depth of 1/8". After that a saraficial piec 1/8" thick is inserted in the back so I can procede to cut the pattern as usual. If this is not done then there would be a space between the table and the wood being cut and this will break on delicate pieces. So you need to fill in the void when cutting. After it is cut then you can insert plexi and glue on the backer gluing only on the outside deges.

                Now the towers plaque is basically done the same way with the routing of the interior and the stain glass is added but this time when I routed I went a depth to allow not only the stain glass but a piece of 1/8 laun wood for a backer and screwd it to the outside edges in case of glass breakage I can replace.

                I hope this helps somewhat and if you click on the picture I think you can enlarge them to see better. I do not know if any of these things will be of a help to the person who wrote the question originally but to me the method I used on the roses with a piece of backer board glued to the edges would be the way I would go. Good luck! If you want a clearer up close phot of anything I can do that also.
                Last edited by jttheclockman; 10-30-2005, 12:50 PM.
                John T.

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the pictures.Its true,a picture is worth a thousand words.I am hoping to just sillycone the parts in this clock,and skip a backing,once the pieces are stuck in,and the clock is hung,nothing should ever touch the back of the mirror acrylic.I was hoping there would be more pollsters take a pick at the gluing options,but maybe thats a good thing,maybe Im not the only one wondering! Thanks again
                  Dale w/ yella saws

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                  • #10
                    Gracias Amigos
                    Fred

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