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Excalibur 21 repair #2

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Thanks guys. I think the white lithium was what I was probably thinking of. It's what we used a lot on our machinery at work years ago because of it's quality. But based on what you guys say, and as little of it as I need for the occasional maintenance....you guys helped me a lot. I'm going with it! Thank you bunches.

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  • Rolf
    replied
    I use white lithium grease as it is what I have on hand but Scott is correct I think any good quality grease is fine. I think that the synthetic grease won't dry up like some of the others.
    On two of the machines the small bearing in the pitman arm had a red grease that had pretty much solidified. I don't think that was from the manufacturer.
    I did another EX for one of our club members and when I was all done it still had a tick that I didn't like, even after all new grease. I rechecked for any mechanical play and replaced the small pitman arm bearing with a new one. Absolutely quiet now.

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    So synthetic is the key. Awesomeness. Thank you.!

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  • NC Scroller
    replied
    Linda I use an automotive grease but it is 100% synthetic. Brand does not matter. Available in most hardware, automotive and Wal-Mart stores.

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Rolf, I was referencing this post from earlier this year for discussion hubby and I are having. What is the grease you recommend best used for this? Hubby says any automotive grease will do. I'm thinking that would be adequate, but not necessarily the best choice.

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  • will8989
    replied
    Me too Scott. A barstool! I don’t know how people can stand and scroll at the same time.

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Thank you Rolf!!

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  • NC Scroller
    replied
    Not knowing any better I started without a foot pedal. Yes I sometimes do demo's without one but for all my regular scroll saw work I won't scroll without it.

    P.S. I also use a tall stool.

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  • Rolf
    replied
    You have to dismantle the saw to do it. The first saw I did for her was older and it broke an adjuster in the upper arm. Part #64 was originally 2 pieces with an adjuster in it. That part was notorious for snapping. It now looks like the drawing. Also in that saw both bearings in the Pitman arm part #10 were rusty. I was amazed that it was running at all. She ordered the replacement part and it came as an assembly. If you replace the original clamps with the Pegas version. the small bearings in the ends of the front arms parts 27 and 35 are reused. Since I had to take the saw apart anyway I greased every bearing in it. I will get a picture later of the assembly that she bought. It is like the first image but without the clamps and front assemblys.
    . 059fe8a51e35e2873a2c1bdbefb7cd4b.jpg EX parts.jpg
    Last edited by Rolf; 05-01-2021, 07:50 AM.

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Foot pedals are a must to keep hands safer for a quick stop! So where exactly are the bearings you're greasing? I just assumed that sealed bearing had to simply be replaced when the grease inside them lost their viscosity. Educate me please because I would like to prolong the life of my equipment with a few cents worth of grease! Thank you Rolf.

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  • Rolf
    started a topic Excalibur 21 repair #2

    Excalibur 21 repair #2

    I just finished rebuilding my friends 2nd EX 21, This one was in much better shape than the first. No rusty bearings this time but I re-greased them anyway.
    I adjusted the front back motion and and the blade is also at 90 degrees to the table when using the locating pin.

    I used it a bit without a foot pedal. How anyone can do scroll work without a foot pedal is beyond me. What a time consuming pain to have to reach up for the switch every time you go to a new hole.

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