Our scrolling SIG is discussing using spiral blades at our March 17th meeting. After past bad experiences with the spiral blade, I took the time to cut two different projects (below) with spirals using a combination of Pegas and Flying Dutchman. The bear is cut from bigleaf maple and the lion is we think elm.
I have some thoughts on "technique" and I have compiled the following ideas from other's posts but I was hoping for some technique thoughts and tips when using a spiral blade. From my recent experience, it is obvious that the spiral blade cuts better toward you and tightness of the blade is key
Looking forward to everyone's thoughts.
Ideas compiled from past posts:
1. Each individual saw has a motion of the blade front to back that affects how the blade cuts.
2. Fuzzies – periodically sand the back to remove any fuzzies to keep your work flat to the table / Can also use a small butane torch to burn off the tiny hairs
3. Keeping blades in the clamps – Flatten end - or buy the flat end blades
4. FD “New Spirals” – tighter twist making it more round and maybe more controllable
5. Blade must be taut - at least on my saw - (EX 16) - the blades seem to either stretch or work themselves a bit slack in the clamps - I find myself tightening them up at least once or twice during the life a blade - and if I don't that blade will end up finding a life of its own and go wherever it wants
6. A smooth and seamless flow of moving the work with the cutting of the blade is an absolute must; this takes a bit of getting use to but lose it and your line is toasted
7. Choice of Woods – Spirals follow the path of least resistance so if your wood has significant graining in it, you may be fighting the blade to cut
I have some thoughts on "technique" and I have compiled the following ideas from other's posts but I was hoping for some technique thoughts and tips when using a spiral blade. From my recent experience, it is obvious that the spiral blade cuts better toward you and tightness of the blade is key
Looking forward to everyone's thoughts.
Ideas compiled from past posts:
1. Each individual saw has a motion of the blade front to back that affects how the blade cuts.
2. Fuzzies – periodically sand the back to remove any fuzzies to keep your work flat to the table / Can also use a small butane torch to burn off the tiny hairs
3. Keeping blades in the clamps – Flatten end - or buy the flat end blades
4. FD “New Spirals” – tighter twist making it more round and maybe more controllable
5. Blade must be taut - at least on my saw - (EX 16) - the blades seem to either stretch or work themselves a bit slack in the clamps - I find myself tightening them up at least once or twice during the life a blade - and if I don't that blade will end up finding a life of its own and go wherever it wants
6. A smooth and seamless flow of moving the work with the cutting of the blade is an absolute must; this takes a bit of getting use to but lose it and your line is toasted
7. Choice of Woods – Spirals follow the path of least resistance so if your wood has significant graining in it, you may be fighting the blade to cut
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