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I admit it... I splurged on a new "toy"

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  • hotshot
    replied
    Originally posted by tgiro01 View Post
    I figured a way to fix that and made a Youtube video that shows how. I sent it to Sawstop and they agreed that was a good method. Here's the link -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wEaDeifHiQ&t=9s
    You did a great job on that video. You speak and explain well!

    Leave a comment:


  • RJweb
    replied
    I am glad it is all working out for you, RJ

    Leave a comment:


  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    That insert definitely is an issue they need to bring up to the standards and quality of the rest of the machine!

    I did the modification they recommended on mine so it wouldn't rub the blade. And, sure enough their supplied blade had blown out 2 of the tips on the teeth because of the initial problem. I was disappointed that what looked like a great blade out of the box ended up having such a short life span.

    After the mod and just over 2 weeks of issues, I finally got to cut wood for the first time. I could not believe how much quieter this saw cuts then the old one I had. The cut was beautiful, and that new miter gauge I supplimented it with slid true in the slot---Checking with my machinists square I had a 90 degree edge that was drool worthy. Seriously, I haven't felt that good about my table saw, miter, or anything in that area ever before. I won't have to compensate with other tools anymore. Wow.

    Thank you for the Youtube video. I will give that a serious look.

    Leave a comment:


  • tgiro01
    replied
    Originally posted by Linda In Phoenix View Post
    The insert plate is a hard rigid plastic/polycarb type of material. The instructions Sawstop's provided says you loose the use the blade (which was not carbide) that came with the saw and raise the blade (while running) slowly up into the insert, then lower the blade back down, then tilt it 25 degrees and repeat, then again at 45 degrees. If I were to buy a replacement table insert from them, the paperwork indicates it would come without any saw blade cutout at all, and I would need to perform this task to create one. Probably better anyway if the manufacturer can't cut them straight πŸ˜‚. But thank you for suggesting I check those teeth for possible damage. Sometimes it is the little stuff we forget.
    One issue I found with the insert that comes with the saw was the areas they smoothed for the kickback pawls. If the insert is leveled correctly, those areas are sitting about 1/32-inch below the table. I had a problem with some small pieces getting caught and jamming because of that. Sawstop's recommendation was to make another Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI) using 1/2-inch MDF or their dado insert. BUT, they added, you lose the riving knife and upper guard, because you lose the slot for it.

    I figured a way to fix that and made a Youtube video that shows how. I sent it to Sawstop and they agreed that was a good method. Here's the link -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wEaDeifHiQ&t=9s

    Leave a comment:


  • Rolf
    replied
    Quartz. What are you not certain of?
    I needed to make a couple of custom sized Octagonal replacement windows, I wanted the most precision. I don't remember where I bought it. If I had seen the bi-directional Incra 1000 I probably would have bought it instead. With the 2000 you have to choose to work from the left or right of the blade. Needless to say I use the Kreg 99.9 % of the time

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    The insert plate is a hard rigid plastic/polycarb type of material. The instructions Sawstop's provided says to use the blade (which was not carbide) that came with the saw and raise the blade (while running) slowly up into the insert, then lower the blade back down, then tilt it 25 degrees and repeat, then again at 45 degrees. If I were to buy a replacement table insert from them, the paperwork indicates it would come without any saw blade cutout at all, and I would need to perform this task to create one. Probably better anyway if the manufacturer can't cut them straight πŸ˜‚. But thank you for suggesting I check those teeth for possible damage. Sometimes it is the little stuff we forget.

    Leave a comment:


  • leehljp
    replied
    I didn't see any mention of the blade after it made contact with the zero clearance insert plate. Depending on what the plate is made of, I would be closely inspecting the carbide tips on the blade. It has been my experience that once carbide makes contact anything harder than sheet aluminum, damage can take place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Quartz43
    replied
    I am not certain about Rolf's comment.

    The Incra 1000SE adjusts in both directions. I have been using mine for quite a few years and it is very accurate. It is also easy to adjust so it fits the miter slot properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill Wilson
    replied
    Congrats on the new saw. Hopefully you are able to get all the issues worked out and start enjoying it soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rolf
    replied
    Back in the late 90's I bought a Incra 2000 Miter gauge. Incredibly precise. The problem was that it only adjusted in one direction, It rarely gets used. It locks in to half degrees. More recently I bought a Kreg fence which has a pin that precisely locates the frequently used angles.
    That is my go to. If I ever do a segmented bowl, On my list, I will set up the Incra. They are both very precise once setup. Certainly better than what comes from the factory.
    Incra 2000.jpg Kreg Miter.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • tgiro01
    replied
    Linda - Here is my gimmick for the Incra 1000SE on my SS CNS. I scratched a line 3/4-inch in from the blade end of the fence. I then use a ruler to set that line 1-inch from the side of a carbide tooth on the blade. Then I line the 1-inch mark on the fence ruler to the scratch line.

    Now, the Incra fence is always 1/4 inch from the blade and the fence ruler is accurate for cutting. Just remember to reset that when you move the miter to an angle and when you move the miter back to 90Β°.

    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    It was a tough choice on the miter gauges---based on recommendations here. I researched the Kreg and the Incra. They were pretty much tied. I let fate decide it. Went into my nearest 2 hardwood stores. #1 sold Kreg, but they were out of stock and didn't know when an order would come in that didn't already have backorder reservations (the same store already had my DeWalt planer on backorder). So, I went to store 2 (competitor), and they had one of the Incra 1000SE's in stock. They offered me a discount too, so the Incra was chosen. I look forward to NOT running to my son-in-law's house to use his miter saw. And this should be more accurate if I practice a little!

    Leave a comment:


  • RJweb
    replied
    As far as the Incra miter gauge, if you keep it 1/4 inch away you will be fine, but you will have to adjust it when doing angle cuts, it’s a great miter gauge, RJ

    Leave a comment:


  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Sawstop instructions are some of the best I've ever worked with. Each part comes labeled with a letter to match instructions, hardware in color coded and labeled to match labels and colors in instructions. Full poster size instructions with pics in addition to manual instructions. Could only find one place they could've added a sentence to make it better, and that was on the mobile base (it is great) Getting the cast iron wings bolted on and truly level and flush to the main body was actually the hardest part---because of their weight and the slight play that occurs when bolting things together, but certainly not because of the instructions. It didn't help it was 90 degrees in the garage all day. Hubby glanced at pics in instructions as I read the verbiage.

    External mount on motor is fantastic, and it has the spring 'clip' for mounting into perfect tension location, which also makes putting the belt on a breeze too. Zero pinched fingers.

    The blade seems to be perfectly parallel to the miter slots, and my separate digital indicator gave me perfect readings on blade perpendicularity to table for a true 90. They explain how to adjust it, but mine was good.

    I'll make sure to keep that miter gauge an inch or so away.

    More updates to come later!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rolf
    replied

    So glad they were supportive, it is a bit disappointing that they had to be. But like any tool manufacturer they have to out source many of the components like the motor. At least the motor is mounted externally for an easy change. How true was the blade to the miter slots etc.
    I like the fact that they already have the dust ports built in. The mobile base that they show in the video looks like a great design.

    How were the assembly instructions? The ones I received with my Infinity router table were a bit lame, had to look at pictures on the web to clarify frame assembly.

    I look forward to your review after you have done some cutting.

    Leave a comment:

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