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  • Rolf
    replied
    If it is a first generation Wixey the battery dies even when it is not used. I always took the battery out when not in use.
    I now have the newer version. that uses AAA batteries. Dan go on line and watch a video on how to use one.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QanSL2AfdUw

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  • Dan A
    replied
    I like that PDF. This is something that Denny brought up on the phone last Friday as well. I told Denny that afternoon that the set screws would be something that I would not have thought of. We also talked about tightening the blade to much. I seem to have the tendency to over tighten the bottom clamp. There was a weekend that I could not get the blade to feed into the hole. I couldn't understand why. It turned out that the bottom of the blade was in the shape of a hockey stick that any hockey player would've been proud of to use on the ice.

    Like I told Denny I'm a little leery about sanding the set screw and/or the clamp knob itself. I tried that with my Delta saw and it never seemed to be right after that.

    I do have a Wixey that my Dad had given me but the battery must be dead because I couldn't get it to turn on. Truthfully. I'm not exactly sure how to use the thing. The little 2" square I have in my toolbox turned out to be very unsquare because after I looked a little closer at it even I could tell that it was crooked as a dogs back leg.

    Either way gotta get back to mowing before it gets dark,

    Dan

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  • handibunny
    replied
    Jim, very nice diagrams of an important procedure.

    I'd just wonder about the wording, which could be misleading for someone who doesn't understand the principle, since it's conceivable that the clamps themselves may not placed exactly above each other. What's critical is the adjustment of the setscrews. Starting out with them flush with the sides of the clamp, then moving them exactly the same amount so the blade sits in the center of the hole should work, but it's conceivable that some tweaking might be needed. Either a Wixey or a 2" engineer's square is useful in this regard, to ensure that perpendicularity has been achieved.

    This should, of course, be done with a table setting of 0˚ so the angle gauge can be trusted when the arm is tilted.

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  • Jimern
    replied
    Before you worry about the table being 90* with the blade, make sure the upper and lower clamps are plumb, see the attachment. Once you have them plumb, then center the table hole around the blade, then set the 90* relationship of the blade to the table top.
    Attached Files

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  • Dan A
    replied
    Ok, finally was able to work on the saw. Thank you Carole, NC Scroller and Denny. The blade is centered, and I'm close enough to zero on the table that I can live with it. I ended up calling Denny on Friday because I kept finding loose bolts and nuts on things that I didn't know what they were. So my inner voice is asking me "Do I tighten this real tight or only slightly?" "What exactly is this and why are the bolts loose?"

    Unfortunately that is as far as I got on Friday. As we all know, life can sneak up behind you and get your attention. Our refrigerator decided it was time to die in the middle of the night and my sons pickup decided that it no longer wanted to go in reverse. So we spent last Saturday where my son goes to college, looking at vehicles and refrigerators and stoves. I didn't know we were going to get a stove but according to my wife it was only logical that if we get a refrigerator we better get a stove that matches.''

    I think I did finally get it across to my son that what he wants for a new and/or different vehicle and what he was going to get with his parents help were going to be two different things.

    Sadly we didn't find any appliances that my wife was happy with. At least the old Whirlpool fridge downstairs is still working. Glenda got it from her mom and dad when when she moved out. It has all ready outlasted two refrigerators.

    Dan

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  • handibunny
    replied
    Dan, when the saw is locked into the zero position, check whether the blade and saw table are perpendicular. Then, find the position of the arm where the piece sides out from either side and check whether the blade and saw table are perpendicular. The best tool for this is a 2” engineer’s square. Then check back with your results.

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  • NC Scroller
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan A View Post
    Ok, for some reason I cannot post a new topic. So I'm going to try it this way. If this doesn't work I do have artcrafters phone number.

    I noticed last weekend that the blade on the Pegas was no longer centered in the table hole. When ever I tensioned the blade it was off center. Mostly to the left of the center of the table hole. I reset the saw head at zero which did put the blade back into the center of the hole. However, any of the pieces I cut would only drop out from the bottom, they would not come out from the top of the project I was cutting. So I kept moving the head until the pieces I cut would fall out from either the top or the bottom. And according to the dial under the table I was no longer on zero and this put the blade to the left of the tables blade hole again.

    I doubt if this is a big deal but I don't understand why this is now like this,

    I would like to know if this is a big deal or if I can just keep cutting as long as the blade does not run into the edge of the hole and gouge into the metal table

    Dan
    Dan was the table tilt knob tight?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan A
    replied
    Ok, for some reason I cannot post a new topic. So I'm going to try it this way. If this doesn't work I do have artcrafters phone number.

    I noticed last weekend that the blade on the Pegas was no longer centered in the table hole. When ever I tensioned the blade it was off center. Mostly to the left of the center of the table hole. I reset the saw head at zero which did put the blade back into the center of the hole. However, any of the pieces I cut would only drop out from the bottom, they would not come out from the top of the project I was cutting. So I kept moving the head until the pieces I cut would fall out from either the top or the bottom. And according to the dial under the table I was no longer on zero and this put the blade to the left of the tables blade hole again.

    I doubt if this is a big deal but I don't understand why this is now like this,

    I would like to know if this is a big deal or if I can just keep cutting as long as the blade does not run into the edge of the hole and gouge into the metal table

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • hotshot
    replied
    Dan, the unidentified knob that looks like the clamp knob? Only other knob I know would be the knob that tightens in the Hold down, which most people discard.
    Last edited by hotshot; 02-01-2020, 05:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • scrollerpete
    replied
    This is to adjust the depth of the screw to secure the blade, you loosen the nut and with a screwdriver you move the bolt in or out until it is flush with the bracket. The blades will slip right in then.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rolf
    replied
    Can you post a picture of the extra piece.

    How exciting to get a new saw! I look forward to seeing lots of project pictures.
    Last edited by Rolf; 02-01-2020, 02:07 PM.

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  • Dan A
    replied
    Yes, it did come with a manual but it is very general in its descriptions. Just like the directions for the stand. It was basically just a picture of two stands. A small stand and a large stand. But all is well. I did as first suggested and just poked the blade thru the membrane. I have the table leveled and the blade squared. It did have a blade in the saw when I unpacked it but while talking with Denny I discovered the blade was all ready broke.I don't have a vacuum set up to be used with the saw so I may just take the port off as suggested in the manual.

    I have noticed that there is a slight left and right motion to the upper arm. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. My last thing to do is adjust the arm so it stays up and both Denny and the manual describe how to do that

    I did use it earlier today to finish two jobs that have been sitting there for a while

    There is one piece that I have not been able to identify yet. It is a knob similar to the one that holds the blade in the clamp. There is a second piece that is threaded into the knob. The second piece is six sided and has a hole thru it with a threaded shaft on one end. The threaded end is about a half inch long. I can't find any reference to it in the manual. So I'm not sure what that is for or what the purpose of it is.

    But no matter what I'm still happy with the saw. You wouldn't believe how much of an improvement it is over my Delta

    Dan

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  • will8989
    replied
    Rolf you sound like Bruce. He always asks me when I have a question about something. Did you read the directions. That’s why they print them.

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  • Linda In Phoenix
    replied
    Despite our experience, every new tool has a learning curve and a few nuances. Have fun and enjoy your new tool !!!

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  • Sandy Oaks
    replied
    Just like Fibber stats, unless you plan on connecting vacuum to the saw, remove the plastic. When we talkd, I should have mentioned that as well.

    Leave a comment:

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