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Blade and TPI Recommendations for Scroll Work on a Bandsaw

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  • Blade and TPI Recommendations for Scroll Work on a Bandsaw

    Originally posted by leehljp View Post
    Here is the link that changed the way I set up and tune my band saw:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
    Alex Snodgrass Bandsaw set up clinic

    About 30 minutes but worth it.

    WOW - Re-watching after 3 years; I forgot a lot and I gave some wrong information above. I did what he said on the YouTube 3 years ago but forgot the procedure. This is well worth watching.
    The above quote is copied from another thread but I wanted to reiterate the value of setting a bandsaw up the way Alex Snodrass does. I have an older Powermatic 14" bandsaw (PM 140) that I bought for sawing bamboo strips for making bamboo fly rods. Haven't gotten to that yet, but recently discovered the method above and find that it really works. Prior, I relied on the methods in the the attachment, which I do not find in conflict with Snodgrass. I have a Kreg fence, which I really like. I was in the process of installing Carter guides when I discovered Snodgrass. The PM 140 has a different arrangement of the trunions that severely complicated installation of the lower guides, which took quite a bit to overcome. They are installed now and working well. I am in the process of chasing down some vibration. I discovered and replace a stamped metal pulley on the motor, which removed most of the vibration. Still a little that I'd like to get rid of. The PM 140 has a one-piece cast frame, so no possibility of adding a riser block.

    Here is my reason for this post: I want to use the bandsaw for scroll work on larger pieces than fit in my DeWalt 788. I'm also interested in trying out making bandsaw boxes. I have a large Birdseye Maple burl that is too big to fit in my bandsaw, but I have access to larger ones at a pattern-maker friend's shop. I do not currently have any have lumber/logs that I want to do resawing on, but that is definitely an function I will use at some time in the future. I have on order the Carter Stabilizer Guide

    I do not have but will be buying soon blades for doing the scroll work on the bandsaw. I plan on using 1/8" and 3/16" blades. I would like to hear what types of blades and the TPI that some of you have found that work well for scrolling on a bandsaw.

    Thanks,

    Rick
    "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

  • #2
    Question, how do you use the scrollsaw blades in the bandsaw? Sounds dangerous to me. Would like more info on that.
    Betty

    "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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    • #3
      I am interested to see replies on this. I used to have a 12 inch Sears/Craftsman band saw that the head tilted instead of the table. On that one I had a couple of 1/8 inch blades and used them on occasion on larger items as you mentioned. I didn't have that saw set up like Alex S. did but it worked great the several times I used it like that.

      The only place that I know that has 1/8" blades is Highland Hardware and theirs are 1/8 X 14TPI available in a number of lengths.
      https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...sawblades.aspx

      BTW, there is a blade rounding stone that I do not have, but I have read good reviews that it works good for decreasing the radius of a cut.
      https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...dingstone.aspx
      Hank Lee
      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by will8989 View Post
        Question, how do you use the scrollsaw blades in the bandsaw? Sounds dangerous to me. Would like more info on that.
        Betty,

        Watch the video at the link in the quote of my initial post. Towards the end he does some scroll work. It is in the special guide and setup. In your reply, you mention using scrollsaw blades in a bandsaw. I am not talking about a literal interpretation of that question. One uses a 1/8" or other bandsaw blade, not a scrollsaw blade. The video shows it all.

        Here is a link to the Stabilizer Guide: http://www.carterproducts.com/band-s...saw-stabilizer

        Originally posted by leehljp View Post
        I am interested to see replies on this. I used to have a 12 inch Sears/Craftsman band saw that the head tilted instead of the table. On that one I had a couple of 1/8 inch blades and used them on occasion on larger items as you mentioned. I didn't have that saw set up like Alex S. did but it worked great the several times I used it like that.

        The only place that I know that has 1/8" blades is Highland Hardware and theirs are 1/8 X 14TPI available in a number of lengths.
        https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...sawblades.aspx

        BTW, there is a blade rounding stone that I do not have, but I have read good reviews that it works good for decreasing the radius of a cut.
        https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...dingstone.aspx
        Hank,

        Timberwolf: http://timberwolfblades.com/index.php

        and Carter: http://www.carterproducts.com/band-s...and-saw-blades

        sell bandsaw blades down to 1/8" wide.

        I'm sure others must, I just haven't looked any further. Timberwolf has more than one type, Carter has only one for 1/8" blades.

        I've seen photos of the rounding stone for band saw blades. I'd like to find it to buy one. I've looked but not found it yet. I have a number of stones, mostly from my machinist father's toolbox that I've used to round the backs of scroll saw blades but have not tried them on band saw blades. I'm sure they'd work, but most of what I have are fairly fine.

        Rick
        "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

        Comment


        • #5
          I think I have been working in the kitchen too long. I misread your article. We use the timberwolf blades.
          Last edited by will8989; 07-15-2018, 02:07 AM.
          Betty

          "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

          Comment


          • #6
            Rick, the Timberwolf or Carter Accurite blades are my goto's for 1/8th and 3/16th.

            The only issue is that, the small teeth on them can gum up pretty quickly. I'll coil the blade and let it soak for about 20 minutes in Simple Green. Then a good stiff plastic brush and it will be cleaned up and ready to go again.
            Tony

            My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by tgiro01 View Post
              Rick, the Timberwolf or Carter Accurite blades are my goto's for 1/8th and 3/16th.

              The only issue is that, the small teeth on them can gum up pretty quickly. I'll coil the blade and let it soak for about 20 minutes in Simple Green. Then a good stiff plastic brush and it will be cleaned up and ready to go again.
              I don't like the sound of that. I was concerned about the high tooth count for most of them (14tpi for both 1/8" blades and 10tpi for one of the TW 3/16"). I see that TW has a 3/16" wide blade with 4tpi, positive rake. That seems like a good bet for teeth that won't clog as much. Have you tried that one and found it to clog as well?

              Rick
              "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

              Comment


              • #8
                I have a couple of the 3/16th, 4 tpi blades. They won't gum up as badly, and you can be a little more aggressive with them. The trade-off is that you will have a much rougher cut than with the higher tpi blades.

                Actually, how badly your blades will gum up will depend on the wood you're cutting. If you are cutting a sappy wood like yellow pine or some of the oilier exotics, your blades will gum up faster.

                Unless you are running the saw 8 hours a day every day, you aren't going to have to clean the blades that often. If I'm doing a lot of cutting (usually around christmas) I may clean the blades every couple of weeks.

                Tony

                My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

                Comment


                • #9
                  I received today the Carter Stabilizer Guide (http://www.carterproducts.com/band-s...saw-stabilizer) and a Carter "AccuRight 1/8" wide x 14 tpi bandsaw blade that I had ordered. I set them up and tried them out. Setup of the guide was a breeze, but I am having trouble getting the blade to ride on the top of the crown. It wants to shift left or right about 1/8-3/16". I chose to the right since the stabilizer guide is pushed into the back of the blade about 1/8" as part of its "guiding" and to maintain tension on the blade for backing out of cuts and I didn't want it pushing the blade off the wheel. That it has to climb the crown makes me feel safer.

                  I did a couple cuts in Douglas fir 2x4 and had no problems with gumming (no surprise). It went very smoothly, very fast and very little resistance. It seems the kerf is rather large, but that is also not a surprise, but it is larger than I was hoping for and what I'd like for what I have in mind. I'll have to work with it a bit, but so far I'm very pleased.

                  Scrolling on a Bandsaw 07-19-18 640.JPG

                  Rick


                  Attached Files
                  "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Rick - check out this video by Alex Snodgrass -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EexhzUmXL4

                    Once the stabilizer is touching the back of the blade, he has you push it forward about an eight of an inch to put tension on it, Then adjust the tracking on the top wheel to bring the blade back to the center of the wheel to maintain the tension.

                    This is what I do and it works fine for me. The blade stays centered in the track.
                    Tony

                    My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tgiro01 View Post
                      Rick - check out this video by Alex Snodgrass -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EexhzUmXL4

                      Once the stabilizer is touching the back of the blade, he has you push it forward about an eight of an inch to put tension on it, Then adjust the tracking on the top wheel to bring the blade back to the center of the wheel to maintain the tension.

                      This is what I do and it works fine for me. The blade stays centered in the track.
                      tgiro01,

                      Thanks. I still enjoy watching Alex, even though he reminds me a little of a carnival hawker selling slice-n-dicers That is how I learned of the Stabilizer Guide and decided to get it. It is installed and set up as he describes, although it appears to me he pushes it a bit more forward than 1/8". As mentioned, the 1/8" blade on my saw does not want to ride on center in tracking. It pops left or right when it gets close to center, so also as mentioned, I chose to keep it on the left. I checked with a Carter engineer and he said Yes that is the way to do it.

                      I watched with great interest as Alex shows the finished cut pieces, that his kerfs are very similar to mine, which makes me feel better about how mine is working. He made some nice smooth curves but did not make any really tight turns, where I think I did make some tighter turns and they still came out pretty good.

                      I compared them to my inspiration, an Owl/Pyramid/Bandsaw Box puzzle that I brought back from Belize a year ago for my granddaughter. The kerfs on it seem slightly smaller but I think I can get pretty close. I was pleased to see the saw/glue lines for the back and the box, and they were done exactly like Alex showed in another of his videos.

                      My granddaughter has already enjoyed playing with my trial block cuts, so I'm sure she will like whatever I can make.

                      Rick
                      Last edited by Rick Kr; 07-22-2018, 10:51 AM.
                      "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I too have the Carter Guides and the stabilizer. I use them on my Jet 14" with riser blocks. The 1/8" blades I buy work very well for cutting band saw boxes. I don't use TW blades anymore, because of their composition, and low tension settings, they can be a bear to get the tension exact. It must be done as described in the directions that come with the blade. I buy blades from a local saw and tool sharpening business in Hickory NC. 104" by 1/8" blades usually cost less than $15, compared to TW at much more. With my cheap blades I can install a blade and be ready to saw in less than 10 minutes, and I don't remove the table. I also use a Hammer 15" band saw of European design. This is dedicated to resawing as it has the capacity and power to pull a 1" blade with 3 tpi through 12" thick stock. Because of how it's table is attached, I won't even try again to remove, so installing a TW blade won't work for me there. Again I buy $15-16 blades that do a very good job. When it comes to resawing, almost every plank run through the resaw needs to go through the planer anyway to get a uniform thickness, so smoothness of the cut doesn't often factor in. For a great education on band saw setup and cutting, watch all of Alex Snodgrass's videos, and more than once, there's a lot of info to absorb.
                        Manufacturer Of Heirloom Quality Sawdust

                        I wasn't born in the south, but I got here as fast as I could!

                        Dewalt DW788 Hegner Maximat 18

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by sawman101 View Post
                          I too have the Carter Guides and the stabilizer. ...snip...

                          I don't use TW blades anymore, because of their composition, and low tension settings, they can be a bear to get the tension exact. It must be done as described in the directions that come with the blade. ...snip...

                          For a great education on band saw setup and cutting, watch all of Alex Snodgrass's videos, and more than once, there's a lot of info to absorb.
                          sawmill101,

                          Interesting. I did not receive any tensioning information with my TW blades (1/4" and 3/8") and do not find any on their website. I have emailed TW for advice. It will be interesting, as my 1960 Powermatic 140 (14") bandsaw lacks any tensioning guide or scale.

                          Yes, I agree about watching Snodgrass's videos multiple times. I have done so for the videos I am aware of, which is three or so. Lacking any tensioning information from TW (or Carter for my 1/8" and 3/16"), I am using Snodgrass' finger test.

                          Rick
                          "If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes a bit cheaper."

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