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Delta dust collector problem--suggestions needed

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  • #16
    I agree with Gary, but add a lock washer into the mix.

    Karl
    Karl in Sunny Southwest Florida

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    • #17
      Originally posted by handibunny View Post
      Tony, the newer version, which is not backward compatible, is similar to your diagram.

      The current one uses just one bolt, on top, in a place that's reinforced. I'd be hesitant to drill into the body of the dc and put nuts in a place that's not accessible once the bag is in place. If the nuts loosened, I'm not sure where they would go or the damage they could do.

      The original design uses a threaded insert in the reinforced area to avoid the need for a nut inside the unit, and must have been designed by a total moron who expected a single bolt to hold firm over time.
      I have the same DC as you do, so basically this is a prediction of what I will put up with in the future. I know, on mine, that bolt comes undone quite a bit. I'm usually retightening it, when I change the bag.

      I can understand not wanting to drill into the side of the machine, but, I think, loose nuts would just fall into the dust bag. They wouldn't fly into the impeller, as it is blowing outwards at that point. If I use this method, I would use lock-nuts on the bolts/screws.

      The other thing I thought of, since it looks like your problem is the tab is getting bent at the bolt hole - Fender washers. They are wider than regular washers. Hammer the tab flat again, and drop a couple of fender washers on top of it (you'll probably need a bit longer bolt). Add a lock washer to the mix. The fender washers may keep that tab from bending.
      Tony

      My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

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      • #18
        Thanks, everyone, for the variety and depth of your suggestions. We did try to straighten out the piece, but were not able to make a dent in it (pun intended). Never thought to check it for tightness, which might have prevented the problem.

        We’re going to start by emptying the lower dust bag, which needs it anyway, and seeing what kind of lip is on the inside, which will indicate how easy it would be to use the Wynn filter. We’ve inverted the motor, so the bolts aren’t available if needed to secure the filter. We’re also looking into a U bolt which we can turn into a J bolt and slip the J end into the rod pocket and use connecting nuts to extend the length to attach it to the ceiling.

        Will post pix when we come to a resolution. It’s actually sort of fun to work out a solution—makes me feel less uneasy about tool repair.
        Carole

        Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

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        • #19
          If you get a Wynn filter, it should come with three turnbuckles, that you use to attach it to three points inside the DC, on the internal ring for the upper filter bag. Depending on the size of filter you get, you may want to get some door weather stripping to create a better seal for the canister.
          Tony

          My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

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          • #20
            Is there a chart that is available telling what blade to use with different woods. I’m using plywood and I have probably with it split metering. I have been using Pegas and Olsen blades reversing
            thanks for any help

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            • Rolf
              Rolf commented
              Editing a comment
              Robert this should be new topic it will be lost in the middle of this discussion,
              At the top of the tools section there are all of the stickies There is one listed blade charts
              Last edited by Rolf; 04-17-2018, 08:06 AM.

          • #21
            I would clamp the bracket in the vise to straighten it out. Put a fender washer under it and one on top a lock washer on top of that and tighten the bolt back down.
            Tim

            In God we trust, all others must pay cash!

            I don't want no bargains, they always cost me more money.

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            • #22
              Thanks Rolf

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              • #23
                Tony, apparently not all models have the rim inside to which the turnbuckle can be attached. We'll check it out when we disassemble the unit for cleaning.

                Thanks, Tim. We were unable to hammer it flat, but haven't tried a vise. Ours is a small one for metal working (Harbor Freight special), but it might be sufficient to do the job. Might need a longer bolt, but that shouldn't be a problem to find.
                Carole

                Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

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                • #24
                  wood bracket.jpg If it was me I would weld up a new one. But my welding stuff is buried waiting for a spring cleanup. That said you could make a new bracket out of wood. A piece of 2x4
                  Last edited by Rolf; 04-18-2018, 08:11 AM.
                  Rolf
                  RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                  Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                  Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                  And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

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                  • #25
                    Another option! Thanks. BTW, nice diagram. 😊
                    Carole

                    Follow me on my blog: www.scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com

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