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New Pegas Blade Clamps for Seyco, Ex and Clones

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  • New Pegas Blade Clamps for Seyco, Ex and Clones

    So, for those of you that got the latest version of SSW&C, what did you think about the advertisement for the new Pegas replacement clamps for the EX (and clones) and Seyco saws?

    Get a peek from a German Vendor here: https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/wood...r-complete-set
    "Ever Striving, Never Arriving"
    website: http://www.coincutting.com

  • #2
    I'd be interested in more info and seeing what's going on with that nut on the opposite side of the thumb screw ---used to seeing a set screw over there so I'm baffled what or how that side is set up on the Pegas one. And it says it's lighter, which is vague. What does it weigh and what does ours weigh by comparison? I can't see how it could get much lighter and have any true effect. Interesting though. And what materials are they made from? My biggest issue with my clamps are that they are made from aluminum and the set screws are hardened steel. Taking a blade in and out thousands of times during the year, the set screw tends to wear out the threads in the aluminum clamp holder. Then set screws won't stay tight, and blades come loose. That area would be the best area to see improvement in the manufacturing of.
    Linda at www.ArtIngrained.com

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    • #3
      Yep, have that clamp knob go directly into Aluminum was a very bad design. The Pegas clamps supposed to be 40% lighter, and that is significant (because, I'm using the Hegner knob, which adds a little more weight). Maybe they have a steel sleeve or something else. I'm hoping that issue is addressed.

      My theory . . . . For a few years, Pegas has been selling their own branded version of the EX, but under the Pegas name. Like Seyco, they have probably had some complaints about the lever flying up on it's own after a little wear, and a few other issues. So, they developed a solution for their own saw, and thought this might be an easy sell for the other saws where this is also applicable. Well, that is my theory anyway.

      In any case, if it is priced within reach, I'll probably give it a go since my top lever is starting to fly up more often, and needing a replacement anyhow.
      ----Randy

      "Ever Striving, Never Arriving"
      website: http://www.coincutting.com

      Comment


      • #4
        If the aluminum is getting stripped out on the stock clamps I would find a local machinist and have them put a helicoil in it. What is the tread in the clamp? Is it metric or inch?

        Once done you have steel on steel threads.
        Last edited by Rolf; 01-05-2018, 05:11 PM.
        Rolf
        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

        Comment


        • #5
          Metric on the Excalibur. That's definitely a thought on the helicoil. I kept my last clamps that were worn beyond help. I'll look into that possiblity. Thanks.
          Linda at www.ArtIngrained.com

          Comment


          • #6
            My EX is just 2 years old. Got it January 2016. It came with an extra lever in the factory sealed package. I have a lot of hours on the EX and have yet to have an issue. My biggest issue with the EX clamping is getting hockey sticks from the bottom blade holder especially on smaller blades. Just can't seem to get rid of them. I wonder if this new holder might help.
            Scott
            Creator of fine designer sawdust.

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            • #7
              This may be worth the investment
              https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_2b139t6hgv_e
              Rolf
              RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
              Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
              Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
              And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

              Comment


              • #8
                The bottom clamp of the EX is prone to separating, if you tighten the bottom knob to much (something I'm guilty of).

                I have thought of taking the clamps to my machinist buddies and see if they can duplicate them in HS steel. But I'm afraid that the extra weight on the ends of those little arms will cause problems.

                I've been keeping an extra bottom clamp on hand, but now that models are changing I might get a couple more.
                Tony

                My Son-in-law said "Darnit, I cut this board twice, now. And it's still too short."

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                • #9
                  NC scroller -- Ray at Seyco has reminded me more than once that hockey puck blades mean you need to adjust the set screw (opposite the thumb screw). If the crook of the hockey stick points to the thumb screw, turn the set screw out slightly and try again. And vice versa if it the bend points the other way. Over time the little set screw can shift a little. Once it's in perfect position, many people use a little loctite on it (the heatable kind).
                  Linda at www.ArtIngrained.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm at the point of using the Loctite. Hope it works. Seems like my blades are always working loose.
                    My Excalibur is just two years old. Never a minutes problem till these blades started working loose. Changed out the clamps but no relief. Looking forward to hearing from anyone who is using the new clamps.
                    Tracy

                    Nicholasville, KY
                    ​Excalibur 21"
                    www.sawdustgallery.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rtracyw View Post
                      I'm at the point of using the Loctite. Hope it works. Seems like my blades are always working loose.
                      My Excalibur is just two years old. Never a minutes problem till these blades started working loose. Changed out the clamps but no relief. Looking forward to hearing from anyone who is using the new clamps.
                      Tracy, it sounds like your set screw needs adjustment. The best way to do this is to
                      1. Back the set screw completely into the clamp (counter clockwise, the direction you would go if you wanted to remove the set screw)
                      2. Put a penny or something flat into the clamp, then use the clamp knob to push the penny against the far side
                      3. Then turn the set screw until it touches the penny. (At this point the set screw is even with the edge of the clamp)
                      4. Turn the Clamp knob to remove the penny
                      5. Turn the set screw 1/2 turn further into the clamp, which will make it just proud of the side of the clamp.

                      If you do that on the top and the bottom, you will have both set screws just barely protruding into the clamp. (they call this proud)

                      In case you have done this, but you set screw keeps moving on you, Loctite is your best bet to keep them in the perfect position.

                      It is also possible that the tip of you clamp knob or the end of the set screw is worn and is no longer flat.
                      Last edited by hotshot; 01-08-2018, 07:17 PM.
                      "Ever Striving, Never Arriving"
                      website: http://www.coincutting.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks, I changed out the tips with new ones and adjusted the set screws. Still working loose. I have applied the Loctite but have not used the saw since. Been sick and not able to get into the shop. Hope to try it out soon.
                        Tracy

                        Nicholasville, KY
                        ​Excalibur 21"
                        www.sawdustgallery.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm working with Pegas to try to get a sample to check out. They said as soon as they are available, they'll send me a set.

                          Bob

                          PS. If you also check out the Pegas site, they've got what they call a "Scroll saw band saw" that I'm also trying to get a sample to review. That tool looks revolutionary.
                          www.WoodCarvingIllustrated.com
                          www.FoxChapelPublishing.com
                          www.ScrollSawer.com

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                          • #14
                            That Scroll Saw Band Saw, is not something I would buy, well at least it would be far down on my list, but I sure see a ton of possibilities with it. Okay, I might even move it up a little on my list.....
                            AKA Paul from Washington State

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                            • #15
                              Pegas's use of the slotted rollers is very much like the Carter guide addition for the 1/8 - 1/4 blades. Pegas does use them top and bottom which is different and probably adds more stability to the blade.
                              . So if you have a 14 inch band saw the Carter option is worth a shot. I already have the Carter roller guides on my saw so for me it would be about an $80 upgrade.
                              http://www.carterproducts.com/band-s...saw-stabilizer
                              Rolf
                              RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                              Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                              Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                              And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                              Comment

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