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  • Size blade

    I have been trying to cut through 1-1/2" thick pine. I am fed up already. I've used many different sizes and it takes me an hour to cut about an inch long. Obviously I am doing something wrong.
    Please help before I throw it out the window.
    Dragon
    Owner of a nice 21" Excalibur
    Owner of a Dewalt 788
    PuffityDragon on AFSP

  • #2
    I'd use the biggest blade you have and the highest speed you have. A skip-tooth blade will also speed it up....but whatever you use is going to take some time!

    What are you cutting that is that thick? Would a bandsaw perhaps be a better tool to use? You can get 3/32"-wide bandsaw blades now... With a little practice, I can cut out a Judy Peterson-style puzzle on one!

    Bob
    www.GrobetUSA.com

    Comment


    • #3
      I am trying to cut a puzzle style piece. It has some turns so I can't use a large blade. I have an older bandsaw but it has a 1/4" blade which is useless for this. I've tryied and broke the blade. I can only get 1/8" blades for my bandsaw which I've ordered but they have not come yet.
      The piece I'm cutting is 3 inches long and 1-1/2" square. I'm making two cuts on each side, 3D type. It is called a grandpa puzzle. I have one finished and it took me all day yesterday. The blade that I used then is finished and I don't have another one the same size. It was a sample.
      I have a lot of skip reverse number 7. Other sizes are assorted ones.
      The number 7 does not move at all.
      Dragon
      Owner of a nice 21" Excalibur
      Owner of a Dewalt 788
      PuffityDragon on AFSP

      Comment


      • #4
        Dragon is this what you are trying to cut?
        I reduced the size of the pattern to 1 1/2", for me it was a lot easier to cut. I used a #5 Polar blade.

        Bob
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Greenfield_Bob; 12-19-2006, 01:07 PM.
        Delta P-20 & Q-3

        I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me!

        Comment


        • #5
          That's what I'm trying to cut out of pine. But it's not working out too well. I'll go back to the saw for a while. Cutting since the morning and I have about one inch long done. I'm fed up.
          I don't know what a polar blade is, I'll have to look it up on the chart. I have number 3, 5 and 7 skip tooth and that's not working.
          Thanks.
          Diane
          Dragon
          Owner of a nice 21" Excalibur
          Owner of a Dewalt 788
          PuffityDragon on AFSP

          Comment


          • #6
            I cut compound ornament out of 1 1/2" thick douglas fir, mahogany and cedar using a #5 skip tooth blade. I've had good luck in 2" Padauk and Mahogany with #7 and #9 skip tooth blades so 1 1/2" pine shouldn't be too bad to cut with a #5 or #7 blade. It is slow going.
            Kevin
            Scrollsaw Patterns Online
            Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671

            Comment


            • #7
              Diane, something is definitely amiss. Are you sure the blade isn't in backwards? This can happen, Just for ****s and giggles, I just ran a piece of pine 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" thru my dremel and it cut through in 45 seconds. I had my Dremel 1680 set at not quite half speed. Something is wrong somewhere if it's taking you an hour to cut thru an inch. Maybe your wood is petrified.
              Mike

              Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
              www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

              Comment


              • #8
                Dragon, another thing I do is wrap all 4 sides with clear packing tape.

                Bob
                Delta P-20 & Q-3

                I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Most of the wood I cut is at least 1 inch thick and several times harder than pine. I use #9 skips for everything and I can cut an eyeball 1/8 in diameter from 1" thick ebony in no time at all...I'm running that hawk about 1/2 speed.
                  Jeff Powell

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                  • #10
                    Mike may have hit the nail on the head...if your blade is in upside down (something I do on a regular basis <GRIN>) it's going to cut so slow you'll swear that you were cutting hardened steel!

                    Bob
                    www.GrobetUSA.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The blade is not upside down. I've changed the blade many times now to be sure that it wasn't a bum blade. Don't understand it but I'm getting fed up.
                      How can you put something through your saw in 45 seconds? I've never been able to cut anything in 45 seconds. Something is wrong with my saw or most likely my technique.
                      Back to the saw again.
                      Dragon
                      Owner of a nice 21" Excalibur
                      Owner of a Dewalt 788
                      PuffityDragon on AFSP

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I haven't had much luck cutting thick pine any faster than hardwood. I don't know if it's the amount of pitch in pine that gums up the blade & kerf or what, but I cut compound ornaments out of poplar and maple this year and it took me about 10 minutes to cut one out completely.
                        Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I didn't mean upside down, I meant backwards. Of course, if that was the case, it probably wouldn't cut at all - or would it? Are the teeth pointing towards you or away from you, when you're cutting? BTW, I used a #7 Olson skip tooth reverse for my experiment.
                          Mike

                          Making sawdust with a Dremel 1680.
                          www.picturetrail.com/naturephotos

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I can't comment further on your blade question but I'd sure like to know where you got that pattern......I'v been looking for it forever!!!!
                            If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              dragon I have to agree with Mike and Bob- If you have the blade in backwards it will give you fits to try to cut-Try turning the blade so the teeth are to the front (facing you) and make sure you are not cutting with them upside down-
                              Run your finger along the edge of the front of the blade if going up is like a pin cushion then try turning the blade so it feels smooth on the back and rough on the front. smooth side going down and rough going up is the way it should feel. I have caught myself trying to saw with it in backwards and it does take forever.
                              Sharon

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