If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Hi, the Ex 21 is set up and operational. I am so pleased with the low noise level and almost no vibration (although I had to call my wife to the workshop to verify the noise level since my hearing isn't so good anymore .
I even cut out a letter to check it out. Thanks Ray Seymore, you came through for me. The machine is truly in a class by itself.
Since you have two dw788's to compare (which is the only scroll saw I have used) how would you compare the two? (Have to plan a few years down the line you know)
I used it all day, making letters and the difference is huge. The Ex 21 is much more quiet, almost vibration free and smooth cutting. Of course my 788's are over 10 years old and probably need an overhaul. I am sold on the Ex 21.
I have now been cutting on my new Ex 21 for three days and I noticed that I was not getting a clean cut on the underside of the wood. I mostly use reverse skip tooth blades and noticed that the lower reverse teeth were not engaging the wood at all. Since the blades were installed as far up as they would go, I have had to cut about 1/2 inch off the top of the blades so that the lower teeth are engaged.
I think you can change the position of the cutting portion of the blade by turning the knob on top at the back of the saw. Mark the knob and record how much you move it so you can return it to its current setting if you want.
Tom has it right. That's one of the reasons for the rear knob. Turning it will raise the upper arm. Do it till the reverse teeth go above the table when the stroke is in its most upper position.
I have been experimenting with different methods of transferring patterns and am currently using a spray adhesive. It's working ok except that when I sand, the residual adhesive gums up the sand paper. I am sanding right after I cut out the pattern and was wondering whether it would help if I allow it to sit a while before sanding.
The spray adhesive I am using is Elmer's. Should I try a more expensive adhesive?
I've seen posts where tape is applied first, but I would like to avoid this extra step if possible.
I use Krylon EasyTack. When I finish cutting I dab a little paint thinner on the pattern and it comes right off. Then whatever glue is left on the stock I use a little thinner on a rag and wipe it off. Don
Ed, wipe mineral spirits on the pattern paper, then wait several minutes, it will peel right off. However, there is still glue on the wood. Liberally put some mineral spirits on a paper towel (or whatever) and wipe off the rest of the glue. This always works for me. I use 3m 77
Thanks for the tips. I have been spraying the wood with a light coat, so I'll try spraying the paper instead and use the paint thinner if I need it. I do wait a few minutes before applying the pattern and have had no problem removing the pattern from the wood, just the residual.
Well, I have had my Ex 21 for a week now and am thoroughly satisfied with it. But my 788 looks very lonely sitting in the corner of my shop. It has been a good servant for the past 12 years.
Does anyone have Ray's email address. I would like to write and thank him for his good service.
Has anyone replaced the eccentric on the Hegner scroll saw or made any adjustments to this part.
I bought an used Hegner m22 and it vibrates at about 3/4 speed. Maybe I'm just over thinking this problem, last year I purchased a multi cut 3/25 inch Hegner it is a single speed and it runs like a...
Comment