Please help. Blades not behaving

[lukenotts]

Hi everyone,

Just as I am starting to get a grasp of scroll sawing, I am coming across a really annoying problem, which is really getting me annoyed.

I have been cutting 1 inch pine into name plaques and so on for a couple of weeks, and the saw has been doing a fine job, however, just the last few days, I seem to be snapping blades after just a few seconds.

It happens when I have the tension set nice and tight (high pitched ping), and even when slackened off a little... What seems to be happening is that the blade snaps at the top (though sometimes breaks in a few places at once), just at the upper blade holder, rendering the blade useless. I am finding myself having to push to get the blade to get through the wood, as it just doesnt want to cut.

The blades break when im sawing curves, in a straight line, and i have even have a blade break just by applying tension, without even turning the machine on which indicates that my problem is certainly not because im applying too much pressure!

I am using the same blades, and same wood thickness... but for some reason, it just wont happen for me now. It was cutting fine before.

The blades are from my local hardware store (unaware of brand name), which have worked up until now.

Starting to become a depressing problem. Anyone have any ideas, as Id be hugely grateful.

Luke

I moved your thread to a more appropriate forum to maximize traffic and get you more responses to your request/question.

[Jan]

Hi, Luke:

Most of us mail order blades because of quality and cost issues. Most of the ones found in local stores are not the same quality sold in quantity to serious scrollers. The brand doesn't seem to matter with those.

Check out Mike's Workshop English featuring: my life story, a cancer survivor, scrollsawing samples and tips, community service, list of favorite sites and Flying Dutchman fretsaw blades for sale.. Mike has a very good article there on blades and their purposes as well as how to choose the proper blade for the job you're doing.

On top of the blade quality and tension problems, pine isn't the easiest wood to cut. It's resinous and the grain tends to pull the blade with it. That could be part of your problem as well. Aspen and poplar are two woods that are easy to cut and readily available at most of the big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes.

Jan

[wood-n-things]

I would say you may have a problem with the tension knobs. Look and see that the blade is in the center of the holder. Does your saw have an allen screw (hex screw) on the side that can be adjusted? If so you may need to adjust that screw so it is not crimping your blades. Once you have it set be sure to use some blue loc tite to hold it in place.

[ChuckD]

Believe it or not some of the cheaper brands of blades are not tempered correct and can be extremely brittle and will break very easily. Afraid to say that will happen even to the best of blades and there is nothing you can do about it. A better brand of blades will help a lot and if you do get a mistempered group of blades if it is a good dealer they will be replaced. In the long run the better blades will cut better, last longer and the results will look better. I recommend Mike's Workshop English featuring: my life story, a cancer survivor, scrollsawing samples and tips, community service, list of favorite sites and Flying Dutchman fretsaw blades for sale. for what I feel are the best. And I know there is no better customer service than what Mike provides...
Good Luck

[lukenotts]

Thanks for the response. I have placed an order last week for some FD blades from mikes workshop, as recommended by pretty much everyone who knows what they are talking about. As im in the UK, im still waiting for those to arrive, but hold out hope that this may help to sort out the problem.

It does seem like the blades are very brittle indeed, as I have tried going back to the single pinless blade which came with the saw, and this holds out very well, its just very large, and not suitable for what I need. I have been having a dabble with portraits while im waiting for the new blades to arrive.

I have taken a look at the blade clamp, and it is a little to the right, but only by a single millimetre at most. I will try it slightly adjusted tomorrow. The saw Im using is a copy of the Scheppach deco 405 as far as im aware, with the brand Peugeot on the side.

As far as my wood choice, I have been using planed square edged Pine as it is the cheapest wood available to me, and one of the only choices locally, without the requirement of delivery. Again, as im in the UK, so unfortunately we dont have the Home Depot or Lowes.

I appreciate all your help, and will take on board all your advice, and keep playing around with the few blades i have left before i get my FD's.

Many Thanks

[ncsealeveler]

Another vote for Mike's FD blades.I had the same problem as you and his blades solved it.
Tony

[lukenotts]

Ok, I got my delivery today of FD-SR in a range of sizes. I tried them out starting with a size 5, and Im having the same problems. I am trying to not clamp too hard, and have a nice tension set, however, they are still snapping in the top blade holder.

It seems as though it happens when im cutting at speeds higher than 1/2 way.

Also, as I mentioned in an earlier thread, there seems to be a lot of movement, when you look at the saw from the side, the blade rocks back and forth a fair bit, and Ive noticed that I have to apply a fair bit of pressure to the blade before it starts to cut properly, which I think may be causing the problem.

As far as Im aware, I cannot find any way to adjust the blade to stop it rocking back and forth, from the side view.

Something else I notice is that when Im cutting with these new blades, they are making a hell of a high pitched screeching sound when in contact with the wood.

If this continues, I feel I may have to contact the company I purchased the saw from, though would like to avoid this if at all possible.

[ncsealeveler]

Might try some more tension.
Tony

[Doug Nelson]

I have attached a quick sketch as to how the blade should be centered in the upper clamp area. Mike stated that this area must be centered, if not the blade moves in to one side or the other and crimps the blade with problems to quickly follow. Many of us have had this problem from time to time. Click on sketch to enlarge.
Hope this helps.
Doug

[Tenfingers 2]

Luke,

When checking your saw as to the screws centering the blade, make sure that there are no burrs on the end of the screws that may put a ding in the blade.

No idea about the screech though.

[hotshot]

Lukenotts, which model Peugeot do own? A lot of folks on this side of the pond also use these saws but don't know them by those names. These Peugeot saws are made by Rexon and are common in different parts of the world under different names. If you have the 400V, then that saw is the same as the Hitachi CW-40 that is common in the US. If you have the 402PV, then that is the same as our currently popular Porter Cable PCB370ss.

I would check the set screw in the clamp where the blade tends to break. If the set screw works it's back back into the clamp, then you will get breaks for sure. The set screw should extend into the clamp just barely.

--------Randy

[lefty1011]

i cut a lot of 1 inch pine, i broke a lot of cheap blades, if i bent one they would always break where they were bent, once i bought good blades (i bought them from scrollerltd i didnt seem to break that many anymore,

[Huntter2022]

If your getting a screech sound i would take off the side cover and check to see if there is a bushing or bearing bad

[sawdust11703]

This thread is from last year. He probably figured it out already.

[hotshot]

Shees, I hate it when that happen . . . . . I never check the posting dates