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They get dust in the switch.Take out the two screws that hold on the switch and blow it out.If that don't work wiggle the wires around a bit,works for me.
Mine did that. Spin the movement (take off the green cover to see it) and then hit the switch. May need to do it a few times. Just a gremlin acting up.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions,i try them all none work. Is the a way to bypass the on/off switch
to see if it still runs before i buy a foot switch
Thanks everyone for the suggestions,i try them all none work. Is the a way to bypass the on/off switch
to see if it still runs before i buy a foot switch
There are probably only two wires on the actual switch body. Pull them off and make a wire jumper to go between them and then plug in the saw. If it starts, then the switch was bad.
Unless you are comfortable around hot wires, I would suggest jumping the connection first--then plug it in!
Jim
When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
Too early to leave, too late to call in.
check if you have good plug ( in the wall inlet ) couse with time it start to wear (from inside) lose leads , and it might be the switch too , you may bypass it or just make a short between the wires of the switch if it work, then you have bad switch if not then check , if there is a fuse inside the control board of the saw .
I have both types of saw A tilting table Hawk g426 and an Older Excalibur with a tilting head. Unlike Carole for bevel cuts I prefer the tilting head I do larger projects and it is easier for me.
Regarding compound cuts they are cut at 90 degrees.
If you have a good saw, and can set the table accurately, you should be good to go. Give a holler if you need help. ๐
Randy, I swapped out the clamps on the Jet for the Pegas clamps as soon as they became available. I found the Jet clamps just too fidgety for my taste.
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