Tip for slipping blades

[handibunny]

I've been having an occasional problem with blades slipping out of the upper holder on my DeWalt 788. When I posted this problem, it was suggested that I rub the end of the upper holder with sandpaper to remove any residual oil that might have come from the blade. That helped a bit, but I wondered about oil residue on the setscrew, which I really don't want to remove on a regular basis. So, I tried lightly sanding the top part of the blade where it goes into the holder. Worked great.

Carole

[workin for wood]

I hadn't thought that others had this problem, but I guess it makes sense. I thought of possible oily residue so I have cleaned and roughed up inside the holder (Hawk G4). It didn't seem to help. I grinded a point into the end of the hand screw, and that did help for a little while, but not always. I always figure I just can't get enough grip on that little knob to make it tight enough. If I use some pliers and hold on to the holder while turning the knob as hard as I can, it usually holds. I have found that if I put a slight bend in the very end of the blade, it tends to hold best. I do that with two pairs of needle nose pliers. It's all a bit frustrating. I think it would be cool if blade manufacturers would stamp a little speed bump at the top and bottom of the blade to help with this problem.
I was also thinking the other day about my plan of attack to cut a 34" frame with a 26" throat. I know it helps that I can turn the blade backwards, but it would be nifty if I could turn the blade sideways too. Seems like all they have to do is drill and tap the front and back of the holder like they do on the sides. Then you could simply move the set screw to the back, and the knob to the front. it would be a 4 way blade holder instead of 2 way. ...any scrollsaw manufacturer's want to hire an idea man ???

[Mick Walker]

Jeff, did you try to twist the ends of the blade? Just a thought.

[minowevie]

Gosh How tight do you guys tighten your ;blade down. I know I have had this problem too. but I just use alittle alcohole. to remove the oil on the end of the blade. sandpatter helps too. but I also would go back to tention. and see if you ar cranking it down so hard. that the blade just slips out. I just have to tell you. it has been said. to crank every thing down tight. but personaly, I don't think the blade can move like youwont here. give it some slack.or you will bracke some baldes. or grove them on top. breaking there. just my opion. Evie

[jadegroot57]

I've been having an occasional problem with blades slipping out of the upper holder on my DeWalt 788. When I posted this problem, it was suggested that I rub the end of the upper holder with sandpaper to remove any residual oil that might have come from the blade. That helped a bit, but I wondered about oil residue on the setscrew, which I really don't want to remove on a regular basis. So, I tried lightly sanding the top part of the blade where it goes into the holder. Worked great.

Carole

Go to your local good hardware store, perhaps an Ace and pick up a new allen screw, 6mm-1mm thread with a hollow or concave end on it. Your problems will be over for about 18 cents.
Jerry Sawdust

[jadegroot57]

Excalibur and De Walt scrollsaws

All DeWalt and Excalibur 30's take an allen screw opposite the thumb screw blade tighter which is 6 mm-1mm thread. Most Ace hardware stores carry this item, just make sure the end is concave. Problems are over.
Jerry Sawdust

[SNAPPER]

I have to say that Delta's QuicksetII blade holders are second to none. Have never had a problem with blades slipping out of the holders. These clamps have about 3/8" clamping surface.
Dean

[coalboy72]

Really great ideas. I have a Dremel. Does anyone know the size of the set screws in my saw?

[Ramjet]

I changed the set screw on the upper blade holder on my Dewalt and it seemed to solve the slipping problem . I also try and remember to sand the ends of the blade to get rid of the oil residue .I mentioned in the sticky re blade use , the purchasing of a the set scew . On the dewalt the small piece of metal at the end next to the blade rotates . It wears and can be sanded or filed flat . I have never been too good with a file even though I used to be a mechanic . The supplier will only sell you the whole set screw , not just the end for around $10.00 . I guess it is a small price to pay if it solves the problem . It could be a boat part and then I would have a real reason to complain . Just wondering why we can't buy just the little end thingy . They would probably charge the same price . I think I may have just answered myself ? Cheers . Roger

[Rolf]

Jeff,
I have never had to put that much force on my blade clamps?
The only drawback of the 90 turn on the blade would be the front to back motion. I think it might become an issue.
You can modfy a pair of your own clamps if you have the aluminum block style just drill the hole through with the appropriate tap drill and tap it then use the existing thumb screw and a new backing screw.

[AKAkopa]

The only drawback of the 90 turn on the blade would be the front to back motion. I think it might become an issue.

(quoted from the above post)

Have never tried using it this way, but my Dremel 1800 is made so that one can turn the blades 90 degrees to the left. Doubt if I will ever try it this way as the Dremel now just collects sawdust from my Dewalt!

[Plaquerd]

To remove the oil residue on blades I clean ALL my blades in Acetone. Use a glass cigar tube, put a few dozen loose blades in and add enough Acetone to cover them. Shake (not stirred) the tube and you will be surprised at what comes off those blades! Dump the Acetone in my slope can, put the blades on a paper towel to get the rest of the Acetone off and put them in a PLASTIC cigar tube with a Silica Gel bag in the bottom. Never any rust and never a problem with blade slippage on my 788s.

[Pajaro]

Dremel 1800, I don't have any problem with mind anymore. I put a pin type blade in it and only use the disk sander on the side. My dremel had a strange problem, I would have to cut off about 1/8th of an inch on all the plane end blade to get any tension at all on it. I ask Dremel about it, and after a long pause, they said I would need to send it in for them to look at it. (at my expense of course). So I upgraded to an EX-21, problem solved. ( I know a little drastic) but hey what works, works.

[Don Williamson]

The Hegner requires periodic cleaning of the tension spring with mineral spirits.