Delta Q3 Users Opinions

[sawman101]

I've used a Dewalt DW788 for several years, and wore it out. Bought a used Hegner Multi-Max 18 that I've upgraded to current specs, but am not real pleased with. Before I haul the Dewalt off to the repair center, I've located a Q3 that I can buy for $125. I had a P-20 once, and didn't like using it due to the difficulty in clamping the blades in the swivel type clamps. So...what I'd like to know is, your honest opinions of the Q3. I do quite a lot of stack cutting; I prefer to build larger clocks and other bigger projects, and I use almost 100% hardwood that I've bought from the mill and dried in my barn before processing into usable lumber. I already know Rick's opinion, and am about ready to buy the machine based on that. Thanks everybody.

[Greenfield_Bob]

I have a P20 & Q3,
I still use my Q3 and I like it, the problem might be to get parts for it.
I paid about $180 for it new, so 125 sounds high to me.
My P20 and Q3 have the same blade clamps.

Bob

[sawdustus]

I have used my Q3 for 12+ years and love it. It has only 2 drawbacks as far as I am concerned. 1. because it only bottom feeds, I am limited to approx. 10" x 10" pieces or smaller if I have to get to fret holes in the middle of a board with a thin blade #2 or smaller. 2. I keep a supply of mini-switches on hand since they seem to go after only 1000-1500or so on-off cycles.

george

george

[Steviegwood]

I have had my Q3 for about 22 years and still love it. I have worn out a couple of on/off switches also but do not understand why sawdustus is limited to a 10" square. Mine is 18" saw and I have done a many 30" panels on it over the years and some larger by turning the blade around backwards and bringing the wood towards me as I cut. I do not recommend to much of that style of cutting but it works in a pinch. Steve

[sawdustus]

Steve, that's because I have not turned the blade around. I have enough trouble cutting when I can see the line in front of me. What I meant by 10 x 10 inch was if the center holes are more than 5 - 6 inches in from the edge of the board it is difficult to thread really thin blades: they bend too much and like to snap. I use my Hawk, a top feeder, for really large and/or more delicate cuttings in thin wood.

george

[NC Scroller]

Bruce, sorry that Hegner is not working out. My offer still stands on loaning you a DW788 until you get things worked out.

[sawman101]

Thanks again Scott. I really appreciate your generous offer. After a couple of months of very frustrating attempts trying to solve the Hegner blade breaking problems, and considering all the problems and expense associated with the purchase of a used saw, I finally loaded the DW788 in the truck and took it to the Dewalt Repair Center in Charlotte last Friday. The Guaranteed Total Rebuild price of $259.99 suddenly appeared to be the best solution to the whole problem. So far, by trying to come up with a good, working scroll saw, and save money, I have spent over $800 and broken dozen of blades. I am still trying to solve the Hegner problem, taking into consideration every possible scenario that may cause the arms to be misaligned. Drs. appt. @ Salisbury V.A. today, so won't get into it much until tomorrow. Another lacking of the Hegner is the very small table. Working on a pair crosses by Dirk Boelman that are cut from 3/4" stock and 10 x 18 board. Board will fall off table if I don't hold it while rethreading the blade, and have to be real careful when cutting at the extreme ends that the board doesn't tip.

[wood-n-things]

Bruce,
as to the tipping could you add an auxiliary table top. perhaps a 1/8" sheet of plexi or even plywood that has double sided tape under it to make your table larger in area? I think that would work well to stop the tipping of the wood due to small area of the current table top. 1/8" ply or plexi would not change the use of the blade that much. I'd give it a try.

[Steviegwood]

Steve, that's because I have not turned the blade around. I have enough trouble cutting when I can see the line in front of me. What I meant by 10 x 10 inch was if the center holes are more than 5 - 6 inches in from the edge of the board it is difficult to thread really thin blades: they bend too much and like to snap. I use my Hawk, a top feeder, for really large and/or more delicate cuttings in thin wood.

george

Thanks for the explanation George. I got really frustrated with that same problem for quite awhile until enough practice was under my belt to overcome not being able to line up the holes. I now understand. I got the EX30 last year when they had them on sale and that has been my first experience with a top feeder and what a difference that makes. Steve

[sawman101]

Thanks for the suggestion Mike. I have considered adding an auxillary top, but the focus has been on correcting the cause of blade breakage. Yesterday, I couldn't cut 5 minutes per blade before breaking, always inside the bottom clamp. Something is seriously out of line. I bought the saw from an elderly widow lady who knew nothing about the machine, except her husband used it. I am going to check the arm mounts and spacers next. Perhaps the late former owner had taken the machine apart and reassembled it improperly. Maybe the car ran into it; it was in the garage. I don't believe it was used much by the last owner due to the books and patterns she gave me. They were all beginner prctice paterns.

[ubgoofy2003]

Hi, Sawman. I started out with my Q-3 & really liked it. Then I started using spiral blades & it was almost impossible to clamp those twisted blades tight enough to hold. If I set the clamp loose enough for the blade to insert, it would not clamp tight, & when I tightened it up enough to hold it, I could not get the blade into the clamp. Sooo, I bought my 788. Otherwise I liked the saw & still have it. I use it once in a while when I use flat blades. Hope you can work things out OK. Good Luck.