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Dremel 1680 Blade Clamps

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  • Dremel 1680 Blade Clamps

    Ok, I finally cleared the rust off the table, goes to show how much time I get in the shop.

    My question this go round is: The blade clamps on the 1680 pivot. So it seems that when I am cutting I have to push the wood into the blade which seems counter to the general advice given here about letting the blade cut the wood. Maybe I am being too 'gentle' about pushing wood in. I tried starting my quilt piece and am stack cutting Zebra, Teak, and Purpleheart with a FD #7 skip. Still seems to be cutting slow.

    Am I crazy or do I just need to find that magic minimal amount of pressure to apply to the wood so it feeds and actually cuts rather than just making noise.
    Sawdust King

    If there is one thing I can make perfect every time it is sawdust.

  • #2
    Idont know how thick of a stack your talking about, and yes, let the blade cut the wood. You control that with your feed rate, not the saws speed or anything else, but your feed rate. There is no real definate answer but practice. It dont take to long to realize either to pick up the pace, or slow down your feed.It is possible you are pushing it too slow, or, more likely, you dont have enough tension on the blade. Put your blade in the clamps and snug it down good! I am guessing you arent using enough tension. Dont be afraid to tighten up a blade, you'd be amazed how much tension they can handle.It should make a high pitched ringing noise if tensioned good and plucked like a "geetar strang". If tensioned good, your blade still might seem to be behind pace a smidge when you cut, but thats minute, and just hesitate a second before making some of the tighter turns to be sure the blade is cutting straight through the wood. Im not sure if I helped, but I tried , good luck, dale
    Dale w/ yella saws


    • #3
      Saw dust. I for one don't see any reason. except connig. or bracking a blade, burnig, or just plain old forsing to much. I think you really do need to push some. sounds like your cutting some hard wood, and stack cutting makes it thicker. your saw is going to go the same speed. but when under a loud. of corse it will cut slower. and you will were out blade faster. I agree with letting the saw cut at its own speed. but then you can go up and down just so many times before the blade gets hot and brackes. I think just live and learn on your own. see what works the best for you. you are mixing wood here. so let what ever happen. try differant blades.also differant speeds. there is no rule. triel an aier. thats how we all learn. bet youll come to your own. sulutions. your friend Evie


      • #4
        Each piece is 1/4 inch so it is 3/4 total thickness. I am not trying to cut 6/4 thick.

        I'll try cinching the blade down more but it seems pretty tight and does give a nice ring when plucked.

        Sawdust King

        If there is one thing I can make perfect every time it is sawdust.


        • #5
          You're cutting some fairly dense woods, so don't be too impatient. On the other hand, you could sit there running your saw 'til next year, and if you didn't gently push it into the blade, you'd get nothing but a burn mark. I judge when I'm putting too much pressure by the - I guess you'd call it deflection -- the amount the blade pushes out of 90 degrees to the top of the wood or to the table. If it is tilting, you're pushing too much, and the pieces aren't going to be cut the same. So put on a bit of pressure, watch the blade - if it gets out of 90 degrees, slack up a bit. If it is still 90, you can safely put on a bit more pressure. And if you smell lots of smoke, the blade is probably dull.
          Good luck, and be sure to let us know how you come out.


          • #6
            the topic of the thread lead me to believe you was having problems with the blade popping out...

            I use a delta 250 shopmaster and a dremel 1680 as well,
            i have polor #5 FD blades in both of them, i commonly cut 2" thick basswood daily making carving roughouts, the blades preform great and im surely getting my moneys worth out of the blades never broke one never had one pull out of a holder.. generaly i change a blade when it starts scorching long after i think its used up, generaly there is hardly any sharp place on the blade when i pitch them,,, as they get dull they heat up and scorch....

            but the bottom makes a fuzzy at the table. with the #5 polor fd

            on the 1680 i do have to push or feed the stock it seams harder or more pressure on the feed than the 250 delta, same blade same speed,

            i have to let releasew feed pressure often, by letting up on pressure between stock and table so flex in the blade will spring back to center, i find this a real help becuse i have a bad habbit of getting side feed pressure going, and letting up on the feed pressure and table pressure often will let me know if im cone cutting.....

            if the blade clamp is turning loose of the blade, it might be that when you incert the blade into the lower clamp you are not pushing the blade deep enough into the clamp or your letting the clamp swivel too far foward and getting the blade cross clamped in the bottom. use a flashlight and or a mirror to see how the blade is fitting into the clamp.
            snd see if you cant bottom the blade in the clamp keep it straight up when tighting then set top as normal. tighten to first sound of ping and try that..
            too much tention can cause the blade to pop out but you really got to be cranking......on that plastic knob....
            Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


            • #7
              Thanks, but the blades generally don't pop out. I'll keep the pressure in mind. As long as there is slight bounceback I'll consider I am right on target, but if it bounces back 1/2 inch I'll assume I am pushing too hard.

              I guess the reason I'm asking is that I've had some wear marks appear on my insert where it shows that the back of the blade has worn it down and I was fearful that I was pushing too hard.

              Thx again.
              Sawdust King

              If there is one thing I can make perfect every time it is sawdust.


              • #8
                I think the wear marks are normal, i certinly ate up that plate with the spirial blades,
                but i started doing compound cutting and the spirial blades wouldnt hold the line.
                i started using skiptooth reverse blades and i could hold the line and my compound projects came out fine ...
                spirial blades might be fine for some projects but i havent found a use for them yet. maybe soft metals,,,,,

                look up zero tolorance insert in the threads, (carl) canadian scroller did an artical for the scroll saw workshop magizine, and make one. and told all the ins and outs,

                your 1680 factory incert will pop out use it to make a pattern for diameter, then pop the original back in the saw and make one of birch plywood, and you can replace the original with a birch plywood or plexiglass incert and you wont have to worry about the wear on the metal one. while your at it make several you will see why in 2 months or so...

                another thing is make sure that your new incert is level with the table.
                my factory incert was about a 64" below the table and it caused cone cutting on small projects like the milk farm puzzle,
                cone cutting is caused when the blade isent kept at 90 degreese to the table , the incert being 1/64 inch deeper than the table caused the small work larger than 2 inches to be at a angle when it met the blade, if you make a tight turn, the piece of scrap will look like a tapered tooth pick end..
                it causes joints not to be able to move and puzzle pieces not to fit things like that becuse the top or bottom is actualy bigger than the oppisite side and key hole projections wont pass both ways...
                confused yet?
                Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster


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