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Router as jointer?

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  • Router as jointer?

    Anybody ever use their router as a jointer? I've thinking of doing that instead of buying a separate stand alone jointer as was wondering if it'll work. I have a home made router table but I have not set it for jointing but I could figure something out if it'll pay off. I'd hate to spend $350 on a jointer when I can use what I have. I wouldn't be doing alot just for some plaques etc.
    Confuscious says, "The cautious seldom err".
    Confuscious didn't own a scrollsaw either.

  • #2
    If you're only using it on edges, then you don't need a jointer, just use the router.

    The thing a jointer does that cannot be done by a router table or planer or anything else (except a jointer plane), is to true the face of a board. If you're buying pre-surfaced lumber that's not too warped, you don't need a jointer.

    Your router table set up as a 'jointer' will give you a straight edge perpendicular to the face (the second step in processing a board, which can also be done on a jointer).

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    • #3
      Like mentioned already if you are just looking to create a jointed edge for glue ups then no problem at all. Just need and offset fence or some way of making an offset fence. Use a straight bit or down spiral bit. Good to go. Another way to use a router to get glue joints is to clamp both pieces side by side with just enough space between them to take off a 1/16" on each board as you run the router down the middle. The space is determined by the diameter of the bit. Equal spacing all the way. Key ingrediant here is good clamping of the pieces. One other way is to clamp a straight edge to the top side of a board and use a straight bit with a top bearing or a bottom bearing and take off 1/16" When doing this the main thing to remember is to always keep the bearing riding against the edge of the straight edge. This works also. So there are a few ways to true an edge for glue ups. Can also use a table saw if it is trued and you have a good blade.
      John T.

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      • #4
        To get it really good, I use a guide (mine is a tool trolley from www.tooltrolley.com). Keep in mind that you get edges that are ninety degrees from the face that the router sits on. It has to be smooth and flat first. Short boards I often just put in a vise face to face and plane the edges with a #5 (jack) hand plane. If you do them face to face, it doesn't matter if you are ever so slightly off square because the edges compensate.

        BTW, you an also true the face with a router and a jig that suspends it over the board. You make passes over it like mowing the lawn, removing the high spots.
        Last edited by arbarnhart; 01-14-2006, 11:19 AM.
        -Andy

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