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resawing bandsaw blades

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  • resawing bandsaw blades

    I've seen posts before on good blades for resawing, but can't find them right now--I'm planning a lot in the next few months. What are some suggestions? We've got a 14" delta bandsaw here at the office...


    Came back and corrected it--thanks Neal...would you belive it took me a few minutes to see my mistake <grin>
    Last edited by BobD; 12-21-2005, 04:11 PM.

  • #2
    14' band saw!!! Thassa biggun!!! Sorry Bobcat, just couldn't help myself....<GRIN>.
    If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!


    • #3
      In your office?
      How do you keep the sawdust out of your coffee?

      There's a fine line between woodworking and insanity, I'm just not sure which side of the line I'm on!


      • #4
        Should have said--two floors above my office--in our office building, a converted tobacco warehouse.


        • #5
          Resawing Blade

          Hi Bob,
          I do lots of resawing of hardwoods on my Delta 14" saw. I have been using an Olsen 3/4" 3tpi All Pro blade with very good results. I cut as slowly as my patience will allow using a straight edge fence and the blade goes right where I want it.



          • #6

            Go to google, then click on the word Groups. Enter the search Bandsaw blades + resaw. Lots of info from NG alt.woodworking.

            Resaw blades are special class of Bandsaw blades. It has to do with the hook of the teeth. Some like a 0 degree, some like -5 degree hook.

            The current rage is 'Low Tension' resaw blades so you don't wear out your Bandsaw with the very high tension it takes to correctly tension a 3/4 inch blade.

            Brand name: Timberwolf. buy Directly from Suffold Machinery. Haven't tried one of these blades myself.

            A very good resaw blade (not a low tension blade) is by Highland Hardware out of Atlanta GA is the Wood Slicer brand. You can get it in any custom size you ask for.:

            I like the woodslicer, but I someday am going to try the Timberwolf, if I can ever find a better description on how to order from sufflolk machinery, and pick the blade I need, and go thru their procedure of installing and applying tension. You are on your own about reading AND UNDERSTANDING the web page on "Six Rules of Sawing" .

            ASIDE: just remember, resawn wood is not ready for finishing. Do not expect the sides of the kerf to like a cut on the table saw.



            • #7

              Look no further than the Suffolk site that was mentioned. For your saw you want a timberwolf 3tpi 3/4" resaw blade. They have a 1-800# so if you call them they will tell you exactly the blade you need and the size. You say it is a Delta 14" and this is the bandsaw I have but I have a riser block on mine so the blade length is 105". You need to know if you have a riser block on it. These blades will last a long time as opposed to the Olsons. I bought those at a woodworking show and was money wasted. Now I do not use their resaw blades but do other blades. For my resaw blade I use a Lennox 3/4" carbide tooth blade because I resaw alot of exotics and they will out last any resaw blade. Lennox also makes a good blade but you will get a better price with the Timberwolf. Check them out.

              Now for resawing, a high fence is a must and the saw has to be tuned properly to get good results. I assume there are people there that have set the saw up. You can use one of two types of fences. You can use a flat fence which I use because my saw is tuned well and I do not get drifting. The second fence is a pivot fence which has a center piece that you can guide your wood through while pivoting the wood to compensate for drifting. You can make either fence very easily. Some saws come with fences and yours may have one but you will have to add a higher backer board. If you need a pivot fence just add a 1/2" dowel sliced in half. Place this on the fence in line with the leading edge of the blade. If more info is needed sing out. Glad to help.
              John T.


              • #8

                I have done a lot of resawing with my Delta 14" bandsaw. The best resaw blades (in my opinion) are from Timberwolf. Contact them and they will send you a very informative book that shows all of their bandsaw blades. The size blade you probably need for the Delta without the riser block is 93 1/2".

                Hope this helps,

                Gary MacKay


                • #9

                  I use a Timberwolf on my 10 inch Delta and have to do a lot of sanding to get rid of the vertical saw marks. Is this normal?


                  • #10

                    Normal yes to a point. Make sure when cutting the support bearings or guide block system is as close to the work piece without interferring when manuvering. Keep the right tension. These things will help relief chatter marks. You can also change to a different set tooth blade to help but you will always get more ripple cuts it is not like a scroll saw.
                    John T.


                    • #11
                      Oops, another long post.

                      BMW - Bob:

                      Mark Duginske wrote a book quite a few years ago, Band Saw Handbook. (Sterling Press I think.) The big, and I stress the BIG, improvement Mark come up with was the 'co-planer' alignment of the two bandsaw wheels. Then there is a chapter on the correct alignment of the thrust bearings and the 'cool block' guides idea.

                      My reading of other forums, lead me to believe that for Timberwolf blades to show off their cutting ability, the Mark's adjustments should to be done.

                      Then, Timberwolf blades, since they are special low-tension steel blades should have the tension adjusted in a special way. The directions form the manufacturer on how to correctly adjust the tension for a timberwolf blade is just too confusing to me, as I stated in my earlier post.

                      There will be ripples, but if you go thru these steps, you can reduce the ripple from your Timberwolf. The other forums claim the reduction is significant.

                      Many people who resaw wood themselves, also get an inexpensive planer or a thickness sander. There is a wide price range, makers, modes but beyond this thread. But if you go that way, you will want a Dust Collector system because both put out a lot of waste wood as chips or dust.

                      (So, do the math yourself, buy wood mail order at the thickness you want, ready for the scroll saw, at a higher cost per board foot, or buy wood cheaper and spend LOTs of money on big wood working tools. So how many years worth of the slightly higher cost of wood from Sloan's, Wildwoods, etc, will it take to make up for the $700 to $1000 invested in Woodworking tools? Just how many board feet was that??? )



                      • #12

                        What Phil is saying is true. I gave you a few things to check to help eliminate the rippling but you will never get right off the saw quality with a bandsaw. A big factor is to have the saw tuned right and the bearings must be in good shape so you do not get hop in the blade. You see this alot in lower end saws. With the use of low tension blades they will help in this area because you do not put so much strain on the bearings. There are all types of blades also when ordering it is good to tell the person what you are planning on using it for. There is hard back blades there is soft back blades there is blades with the teeth set differently, there are blades with different hook angles so much goes into a bandsaw blade. That is why I suggest you call Suffolk and talk to a rep and they will set you up.

                        Now as far as buying tools versus on line buying. That has to come down to a few things. One being do I have the resourses, the room for the tools and the need for alot of dimentioned wood. Because it does not take long to add up buying wood on line and not knowing what you are getting before you realize this maybe a better way to go. But if you are an accasional scroller or woodworker it probably is not worth it.

                        My post is not as long as Phil's but I am working toward that goal.
                        John T.


                        • #13
                          I've got a source of free wood, so I just want to resaw it for scrolling (oak, cherry, maple, etc...) not very big (4/4 x 4-6" x 4-8") but great for boxes, etc. Since we've got the tools here, I just want to make use of them. The only things we don't have that I'd like is the drum sander and a jointer...and I need to make time to install the dust collector up there !!!!!



                          • #14
                            Beemer Bob and Bob D and others,

                            One thing I forgot to mention if you are resawing and getting alot of ripples a factor is also blade drift. Each blade has a set in the teeth and this will lead to how much drift and which way. It is just like a scroll saw blade. You must figure out the drift and set you fence accordingly. If you are using a point fence you can go with the drift easier. But the table and blade must be at 90 degrees no matter what.

                            Bob D,

                            Resawing and not having a planer or drum sander is going to mean alot of use of the random orbiter. If you have a belt sander you can do it faster with that just keep the sander moving when in contact with the wood. Good luck
                            John T.


                            • #15
                              We've got a planer, but not a jointer...I've used the planer a lot actually, but I need to make a sled so I can plane down to less than 1/4"


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