What blade would you recommend to cut 1" Bloodwood

[boogatoo]

What blade would you recommend to cut 1" Bloodwood.

Right now I used the Gegas #3 Skip tooth and that wood is so hard that it took about 10 minutes to make 4 inches long cut. I changed my blade after each 4" lenght of cut.

No matter what speed I use, it makes some smoke. The stroke of the blade is a bout 3/4" long (this is an average on most saws) this mean that the dust that is more than 3/8" into the wood does not fully get ejected and burns. This wood is an exotic and oly wood, therefore it is prone to burn when cutting, the tickness I used does not help either.

Anyone has exerimented cutting this kind of wood? What blade have you Used? Mike, what blade would you use?

[CanadianScroller]

I would use a skiptooth blade like you are using but I would use a #7 or #9. You may even find a PGT would help.
If the sawdust collects in the gullet it will burn. Since the #3 blade has gullets that are shallower than the #7 or #9 the dust can collect in there easier.

I am sure you will get other opinions, but I would definitely increase the blade size

[jttheclockman]

1" bloodwood now that is putting the blades and the saw to some testing. #3 blade is way to thin for that thickness. You definitly want a skip tooth blade and I would even go with FD polar #7 blade. May I ask what you are making with 1" bloodwood?? That had to be a little costly. But let me tell you there is no better colored wood than bloodwood. It will keep that deep red color for life. Good Luck.

[bearfretworks]

Bloodwood is some very pretty, extremely dense stuff! I've had a long, slow cutting experiece with it on a stack of 3 1/4" pieces. My first recommendation would be to use a bandsaw on it. If the scrollsaw is your only option, I'd recommend a #9 for most of it and switch to a #7 if you have any detailed frets or tight turns. Sounds like you are doing it correctly - slow and changing blades often.

Good luck!

[3_M]

First I would use clear package tape or painters tape under or over the pattern. The blade suggestions are all good, maybe even a # 12 skip tooth.
Make sure you have very good tension on the blade. You could slow the speed down a little but it is more imported not to push too hard into the blade or the blade starts to cut with a bow or bevel. Let the blade do the cutting. The blade JT is suggesting might be the best. It has no reverse teeth but the teeth are off-set just a little and that might help to eliminate some burning with help of the tape.
A # 7 or 9 would be good. If it is very intricate maybe you could try a # 5. There is not a # 12 in the Polar blade.
Mike M

[boogatoo]

What am I doing with Bloodwood?

1st,
I am doing the Holiday 2004 SSWS issue Birds and Berries Winter Wreath from Kathy Wise. I am doing it full chalenged 172 pieces.

2nd
I want to tell that I got a plank of 1" x 6" x about 40-42" finished (not rough) for 7.90$ at my local wood supply (Montreal QC-Canada) and a bunch of 3/4" x 12" to 18" for 1$ to 2$ depending on the bundlles. This is why I grabbed these kind of woods. I have a mix of Bloodwood, Walnut, cedar, oak, greenish poplar, padook, and basswood. www.langevinforest.com.

My scroll say is a Craftman 16" Variable speed. The model that tilt both sides.
I will check my blade stock but will probably end-up ordering from Mike.

Thanks to you all. Virtual frinds like you guys make a difference in a day, and of course in a project.

[jttheclockman]

Fantastic find on the wood no matter where your from. You did the right thing by buying. Hope you bought all you could. I love bloodwood as an accent piece. I know I will be using it alot in my turning projects. Good Luck with the cutting. Post a picture when done. I wish more people would post pictures here.

[Persseus]

Regarding the link on the wood.

Thanks for the tip on the blood wood. I am new at scrollsaw and I thought the smaller the wood the smaller the blade, but I guess that is not the case when it comes to hard wood. Unfortunately I have a project that I need to finish today so I am not able to get those blades, so I will just deal.

I would like to add that they link on wood that "boogatoo" gave links to the french side. Here is the English side http://www.langevinforest.com/en/home/home.asp .

Thank you for the great link.