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Thinking of a band saw

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  • Kevin12
    replied
    Thanks Phil. You've convinced me it's manageable. I could always get an adult male friend to help me and bribe him by giving him some time with the saw.

    And thanks for the mention of the Rigid saw, NM. I'll check it out, as well as the Jet. My planer is a Rigid and I'm quite happy with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • GrayBeard Phil
    replied
    Kevin:

    My knowledge comes from purchase of my Delta 14" back in 1986 and moving it 3 times to new homes. (I kept the wood pallet, more on that later.)

    My bandsaw came in three sub-assemblies: Motor, lower box, and upper wheel assembly.

    I found the Motor to be the heaviest, but manageable. Like a luggable large TV set.

    The upper assembly (wheel) was bolted to a wooden palette and was difficult to handle since there was a sign about not lifting using the sheet metal covers over the upper wheel. Lifting should only be done using the cast iron frame or the wood pallet. I can lift it my self, but the awkward lift restrictions makes it a two person lift only so I don't fall over due to weight distribution. Call it an adult male and adolescent (Tween?) child helper at minimum.

    The lower box, the motor housing, was dirt easy to lift. No problem, about like a standard extension ladder in weight.

    Your Mileage May Vary.

    Phil

    Leave a comment:


  • NMScroller
    replied
    Rigid has a 14" band saw with great reviews. It is considered one of the best in its price range. The great thing about Rigid is that it is the primary Home Depot brand.

    Band saw blades do tend to have "drift" The drift tends to be consistent and most band saw rip fences include micro ajustments to account for the drift.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin12
    replied
    Great thread. Thanks, everyone! I, too, will own a bandsaw ... someday ... to use primarily for resawing (I already have a planer). But I bet when I do get one, I'll use it for a lot more than that. The Rikon models have caught my eye (the local Woodcraft sells them). Probably the 14" (1.5 HP), which has a resaw capacity of 13" (no need for a riser block) or the next higher model, 18" (2HP), resaw 12". Any opinions on the Rikons? Not that I'm gonna run right out and buy one.

    Also - these are very heavy tools. Most places warn that the delivery truck driver won't (can't) help me get it off the truck. Even if it comes in pieces, I'm still concerned about getting the individual pieces off (if that's even possible) without dropping them. So how typically does a bandsaw get from the store into the garage?

    Again - great thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • RocketMan
    replied
    Hi Gill,

    If you decide to buy used, avoid the Craftsman saws with the tilting head (12"). I have one of these. The tilting gears and mechanism are made of plastic and after awhile, they do not work very well. I am not knocking Sears Craftsman in general, or Emerson Electric, which made these saws for Sears (and whom makes the Ridgid brand carried by Home Depot) but I strongly recommend that you avoid the Craftsman tilting-head saws.

    -Alan

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Gill

    The size you are talking about is no problem and the use of a carrier board or sled as you call it would be needed for small lengths but keep in the back of your mind even with a sled you will get snipe at the ends of the boards or pieces. The ones with the locking heads help alot but you still will get some. It is the nature of the beast. A drum sander sounds like alot of money but if you buy thinner woods then it will pay for itself quickly. This of course is just my opinion. I thin alot of wood and mine has payed for itself many times over. Good luck and hope it does what you are looking to do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jimpask
    replied
    Band Saw

    Hi Gill

    What you are suggesting would make a good application for a band saw. Others have suggested the use of a "riser block" but its not necessary. I purchased the Jet 14" Bandsaw and it works great for resawing the thickness of your wood down to the size you'd be interested in.

    It is advisable to build a small wooden fence to help in the resawing, something that maybe is 5-6 inches high and can be clamped to the bandsaw table. This fence would need to have a verticle piece attached to allow you to guide the wood through the blade. Since bandsaws like scroll saws tend to drift a little, you'd need to make say a 1/4 inch line along the edge of yopur wood and follow this line as it goes through the blade.

    Blades for resawing are also quite wide. I think mine might be 5/8th inch wide and I can easly cut a 1x6 or 1x8 piece of wood to what ever the desirable thickness might be. The bandsaw will leave kerf marks where it cut through the wood, but a power saander will eliminate the marks.

    To protect your fingers, resaw and sand a full sized piece of wood than cut that wood to the smaller size piece for your project. The Drum Sander would benice but at about $800-900 US, it is way out of my ability to afford one.

    Hope this helps.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Gill
    replied
    Hi John

    I'd love a Performax drum sander but they're not available on this side of the pond. Admittedly, other makes are available (including Jet) but I don't have room for one in my workshop and they're rather on the pricey side for someone who's just a hobbyist. I'm starting to drool now as I check out the prices of drum sanders - one of the big difficulties I have is finding thin timber and one of those little babies would address the issue nicely.

    I'm not looking at taking the timber down too thin - 1/4 inch or thereabouts would be fine. The need for the sled is not just attributable to the thickness of the offcuts I work with, but also the length. Often I'm trying to thickness pieces that are only a few inches long so I fear it would be impractical to put them into the machine without risking them getting caught up on the cutters.

    Gill

    PS Sorry for taking this thread off-topic

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Gill

    My question to you is how thin are you talking about because if you are talking 1/16" and even 1/8 the planer blades will eat that up and spit it out at the other end. If you are going to do this make sure you use double sided tape on the piece you are going to plane. This is the reason I had bought a Performax drum sander It is the 16/32 and I thin wood to 1/16 with no fear of tearout even if it is a wild grained piece. With wood such as birdseye maple or curly woods and even oaks it will cup on you and get caught. So be careful is the only thing I am saying here. Good luck!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Gill
    replied
    I'm interested in making a sled to help plane wood I've resawn on the bandsaw. This link was pointed out to me as depicting the sort of sled that could easily be adapted for small pieces of timber. I'll be making one in the very near future .

    Gill

    Leave a comment:


  • 3_M
    replied
    Congratulation on the new Jet band saw. You made a very good choice. The riser black makes the upper part higher so you can cut wider boards. Without the riser you can maybe only cut about a 6" board. The advice of the book is very good. Also about moving the wood back when the saw is running. I know that it is bad, tried it once and never again. Re-sawing is like Bob said. You take a 3/4" board and with a thin Timberwolf blade you can even get 3 pieces of 3/16" out of the board. Great for Christmas ornaments. However it is best to have a planer, it is almost impossible to sand it smooth. Chech Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/su...740549-0585612 They have most of the time very good prices and also free shipping on some tools.
    Mike M

    Leave a comment:


  • wwalker47
    replied
    Thanks, Phil

    Thanks, Phil, I will heed your advice on safty.

    Gill--That is where my Dad was stationed while we were there. 1963-1965 (man, that was a long time ago) We really liked bening there. I went to school in Watford. My wife and I go back to England quite often.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gill
    replied
    Originally posted by wwalker47
    I lived in Flackwell Heath near High Wycombe for a time in my youth.
    What a coincidence. I was stationed at High Wycombe when I was in the RAF. It's not only a nice part of the world, but it was once the heart of woodworking in the UK due to the extensive beech woods there.

    Incidentally, any UK members who are considering new bandsaw blades ought to check out DureEdge once they've chucked away the blade that manufacturers provide with new machines:

    DureEdge
    21 Station Road
    Woodley
    Stockport
    SK6 1HN
    Tel : 08702-252337
    Fax : 0161-430-8008

    No website, I'm afraid - they say they can barely keep up with business as it is, without having to tend a website too! Those of you with a yen for scotch might be interested to learn that DureEdge blades are used extensively by coopers in the whisky industry.

    Gill

    Leave a comment:


  • Neal Moore
    replied
    Band saws

    Anyone new to bandsawing would do well to heed Phil's advice. I found a long time ago that learning from experience sometimes involves pain and suffering!! I also learned through experience that wood ain't all that band saw will cut!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • GrayBeard Phil
    replied
    WWalker47:

    If you are new to band saw:

    You might want to see if you can optain a copy of:
    Band Saw Handbook by Mark Duginske published by Sterling Publishing Co.

    You can find out about the advantages of "cool blocks", one method of re-sawing (there is whole long discussions on that subject of how to re-saw elsewere,) and other tips. Others, who own a Jet can let you know about the "co-linear" alignment thing in Mark's book. Many Delta 14" BS owner's swear by the co-linear alignment.

    Do read chapter 3, blade basics, on the subject of minimun curve cutting by blade width. This is not a major subject with scroll sawing, but in band sawing it becomes important. Also look for a discussion on the "Three-Teeth" rule.

    Also, heed the warning about NEVER back a band saw blade out of a cut while the saw is runing. A real honest-to-goodness safety rule. We do this a lot with scroll sawing, but don't do it on a bandsaw that is running.

    You can rest assured that every year, sometimes everyseason, a NEW IMPROVED must have gizzmo accessory to your new bandsaw will come on the market to keep any extra cash you have at a minimum.

    Phil

    PS: I like the re-saw blades from Highland Hardware (do a google search)

    Leave a comment:

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