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  • Blades

    Ok, Mike, this is for you. I have 3/4" to 1 1/2" acrylic to cut. What kind of blade do I use? I never cut on this before, just some 1/4" corian (or nairoc)
    and don't remember off-hand what kind of blade I used. I want to do some relief cutting with the acrylic, I do believe it's called. You know, where you cut at a 4 deg angle and it slides partway out Amazing how I know what I want to do just don't know the technical terms. Drives my hubby wild!! I like to keep him in a state! After you tell me what I need, I'll be calling you with the order. I was checking my inventory last night and notice I was running quite low on my favorite blades. Thanks muchly!!
    Betty

    "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

  • #2
    I would use a blade with no reverse teeth, like the FD-Polar # 5 or 7. The 1 1/2" might be better with a # 7. You have to set your table different with each blade, to get the right bevel. Try it first on a scrab of wood.
    Don't turn the speed down too much, the blade will grab the item you are sawing and you will not get a nice smooth kerf. Also have good tension on the blade and let blade do the cutting. I would use the 2" clear package tape maybe even on both sides, it releases friction.
    Mike M
    SD Mike

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    • #3
      Thanks Mike! I always use the clear packing tape on the top but find for some reason or other, probably operator problems, I have trouble when I tape the underneath. It doesn't seem to want to slide. Maybe I'll put my 1/4 plexiglas on top of the table and see if it slides better. I'll be calling you in a few days, once I get everything I need together!! (Love these smilies)
      Betty

      "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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      • #4
        Now there is something I never tried. There again where do you get acrylic that thick?? Let us know how this turns out and post a photo. Would definitly like to see that. Packing tape on both top and bottom would be recomended here. There is going to be alot of heat generated because of the friction from such thick stock.
        John T.

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        • #5
          When I went to the woodworking show in January, the demonstrator from PSI was using the acrylic for trees and angels and she had a whole boxfull. Of course I asked if she would sell any of it and since it was late on Saturday afternoon she was more than happy to get rid of it instead of pack it up! Got it at a great price! I think she used a Precision ground blade, #7 and of course she wanted to sell me a dozen at $9.00 and of course I didn't buy them! I knew Mike could tell me what he had that would be comparable to the precision ground, as I dont remember seeing that in his pamphlet, but we all know that I don't read everything just skim over then read when I get in trouble! LOL. Keeps life interesting! Well, break is over. Catch everyone later!!
          Betty

          "Congress needs to realize it is a government of the people, by the people and for the people. Not of the people, by the people and for Congress." - Dr. Benjamin Carson, Pediatric Neurosurgeon, Johns Hopkins Hospital

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          • #6
            Table Sliding Problems

            Originally posted by will8989
            Thanks Mike! I always use the clear packing tape on the top but find for some reason or other, probably operator problems, I have trouble when I tape the underneath. It doesn't seem to want to slide. Maybe I'll put my 1/4 plexiglas on top of the table and see if it slides better. I'll be calling you in a few days, once I get everything I need together!! (Love these smilies)
            I have waxed my table from time to time and it helps with sliding. If your table is a little on the rough side to start with you could sand it with 220 grit sand paper then add the wax.

            Dick

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            • #7
              Speaking of acrylic, I have a bunch of CD Cases that were being thrown out, so I rescued them and want to use them as a bottom for boxes among other things. What would be the best glue to glue them to wood? I tried one today and the glue doesn't hold all the way around. It is an all-purpose type glue that the lable says is good for plastic.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Silver_Sliver
                What would be the best glue to glue them to wood? .

                E-6000 might work for you.

                T
                Theresa

                http://WoodNGoods.weebly.com

                http://woodngoods.blogspot.com

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                • #9
                  I think I'd give contact cement a try. Works for gluing laminate to wood counter tops etc. Or, plain old household GOOP might work.

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                  • #10
                    Sticky situation

                    Originally posted by Silver_Sliver
                    Speaking of acrylic, I have a bunch of CD Cases that were being thrown out, so I rescued them and want to use them as a bottom for boxes among other things. What would be the best glue to glue them to wood? I tried one today and the glue doesn't hold all the way around. It is an all-purpose type glue that the lable says is good for plastic.
                    Glue used for acrylics is normally a solvent base that will weld the pieces together, I think if you want to use them on the bottom of boxes you could cut a slot in the sides and use friction to keep it in place. You could also try double sided clear tape.
                    CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
                    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
                    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

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                    • #11
                      Silver-Sliver.....You might try Gorilla Glue. The only problem with that stuff is that it is water activated and foams slightly while curing. It does work as advertised and will bond acrylic to wood no problem. Just use it sparingly to ensure it doesn't foam out of the joint on to finished surfaces. I used it to assemble 12 jewelry boxes last year and am more than happy with the results!!
                      If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!

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