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  • Alignment Question

    Greeting from a Newbie. . .

    I’m quite new to scroll sawing. I’ve been a hobbyist woodworker for almost thirty years, however I bought my Dewalt 788 only about two years ago. I recently got into it and decided to use a pattern in a magazine I picked up to make a couple of Christmas Presents for family friends this last year and I guess I’m hooked already.

    However, I am having a problem with my 788 and I need some information.

    As I worked with thicker woods, I found out that my saw was quite a bit out of alignment. I got things fixed up so that if I cut a shallow cut in a 2” tall board, and swing it around, the back of the blade will enter the slot the blade cut. However, in placing what I know is a square edge against the front of the blade, I have quite a bit of gap at the table where the blade is touching at the top.

    What do I need to do to get the front vertical cutting edge of the blade square with the table?

    Roy

  • #2
    Welcome Roy

    Roy

    Welcome to the world of scrolling! Congrats on a nice saw. To answer your question maybe two fold. Where the blades are held there is a thumb screw which you turn to tighten the blade. This sandwiches the blade between the thumb screw and a set screw on the opposite side. This maybe sticking out too far on either the upper or lower blade holder. What I like to do is set that set screw where it is just clear of the holder bracket for lack of a better term. You then want to set the bottom setscrew the exact distance as the top. You want that setscrew protruding a slight bit so that the blade is tightened against it. While you have the thumb screw out sand the end off to get rid of any oil residue and or shiny spots. It is always a good idea to clean the ends of your blades before using to rid them also of oil. Now after you did that set the blade back in and use your square to set the table sqaure to the blade. This may not be exact zero on the scale but check the same way you did before with the block of wood and if everything matches up reset the zero marking on your scale. Hope this helps. This is the first step in setting up your saw. Good luck!
    John T.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Clockman

      I did the process you specified and after doing that, I was able to cut a shallow slot, turn the board around and enter the slot from the back side of the blade. I had to adjust the arrow for the table scale just more than 1 degree to get things square.

      That is not the reall problem I have. Let me try to explain better.

      If I have a board that is almost 2" tall where the ends are square with the bottom that rest on the table, and take a shallow cut into the end of the board, the cut is deeper on the top than it is on the bottom. I don't see how you can adjust that on the saw.

      Roy

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Roy,

        I don't know if you can adjust the front to back movement on your saw. All scroll saw, except the Eclipe, http://eclipsesaw.com/ have front to back movements. The Hegner has the least but still has some. If I ever find the list of the other saws I will post it.
        However I don't think it makes that much of a difference when you want to cut thick wood. You need very good tension use a # 9 or 12 blade, keep the speed at least 3/4 to full. Have a lot of patience, don't pust hard into the blade, let the blade do the cutting. If you push a little too hard, the blade starts to cut with a bevel. Use 2" clear package tape over the pattern, it eliminates friction and the blade cuts better.

        Mike M
        SD Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the info. . .

          I just got up from the workshop. I spent the last 3 hours working on a piece of walnut that's close to 7/8 thick. It's really a tough peice of wood but I like the way it's cutting and I don't think I have to worry about any additional allignment being needed.

          BTW, I've been trying out the demo pack Flying Dutchman Blades I got from Mike. Wow . . . they really cut nice.

          I've been decorating my desk at work with some of my wildlife pcs and now everyone has things they want me to do.

          It's kind of tough where every one else sees perfection, but you only see every little oops that you know of in the peice.

          I guess that's why I'm a newbe.

          You guy's are really great!

          Roy

          Comment


          • #6
            One thing about it; nobody but you know where the lines on the pattern were. Once it's cut and the patterns removed, it's perfect.

            Comment


            • #7
              Roy

              One thing to keep in mind when setting blades in holders is to seat the blade as far back in each clamp. If one is sitting forward more than the other it will have a very slight under cut or overcut depending on which holder it is. The Dewalt is a saw that is as close to zero front to back movement because of the design. You will always get some under cutting because of this design and all saws have it. Even the new RBI which is adjustable. good luck and look forward to seeing some of your work.
              John T.

              Comment


              • #8
                First try...

                Here is two of the three clocks I made for Christmas Presents. The table they are on, is one of my past projects.

                Roy
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  [Cutting Thick Wood]

                  Originally posted by 3_M
                  Hi Roy,

                  I don't know if you can adjust the front to back movement on your saw. All scroll saw, except the Eclipe, http://eclipsesaw.com/ have front to back movements. The Hegner has the least but still has some. If I ever find the list of the other saws I will post it.
                  However I don't think it makes that much of a difference when you want to cut thick wood. You need very good tension use a # 9 or 12 blade, keep the speed at least 3/4 to full. Have a lot of patience, don't pust hard into the blade, let the blade do the cutting. If you push a little too hard, the blade starts to cut with a bevel. Use 2" clear package tape over the pattern, it eliminates friction and the blade cuts better.

                  Mike M
                  Hey Mike,

                  Thanks for the tips on cutting thick wood. A few days ago I put a 7 tpi blade on my DeWalt and proceeded to try to cut some approximately 2" African Black Walnut. Boy did I get a bevel! Not sure I want to try cutting this wood so thick anymore. I used the same blade on 1.5" Cherry and much much better results.

                  Dick

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Clock Bases

                    Originally posted by rnelson
                    Here is two of the three clocks I made for Christmas Presents. The table they are on, is one of my past projects.

                    Roy
                    Hi Roy,

                    Nice clocks. I like the way you did the bases. What is your technique for doing them that way?

                    Dick

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by scroller_guy
                      Hi Roy,


                      Nice clocks. I like the way you did the bases. What is your technique for doing them that way?

                      Dick
                      It's just freehand work. No pattern here. Just set the table for 5 degrees, and let her rip. I do draw a general arc on the wood. On the bottom piece, I try to stay on the outside of the line to keep it larger, the arc on the top piece is smaller and I try to keep to the inside of the line when I cut the piece.

                      The Bases were made of left over scraps of walnut from the table.

                      Roy

                      Comment

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