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The Blade Test

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  • novascroller
    replied
    i had to laugh the other day, i had some delta blades a friend from work gave me. i was getting low on my FD SR #7's and thought i'd give the delta's a try at ripping some 3/4" oak. it was a big blade with agressive looking teeth so i though it would do well. it didn't even move into the wood!!! i had a good laugh under my dust mask and went back to my FD's. fortunately, my blades i ordered came in yesterday. i may try the delta blades in some pine before they go in the trash.

    Leave a comment:


  • ozarkhillbilly
    replied
    While I am very much the beginner in scrolling, I prefer using spiral blades exclusivly, I have a wide varity of sizes of spiral blades and really dont have any problems controlling my cuts regardless of what speed I am cutting with them. The only time I change to a different type is for cutting v cuts for that sharp point. And yes my blade of choice is FD. Although I do have and use Olson #5 spiral also.

    I know I should widen my horizens and learn to use other types, but I feel very comfortable with the spirals and have been very happy with the results.

    Like I said I am a newbie, but hey it works for me!!!

    Ozarkhillbilly
    Bill

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  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Chris

    I have taken alot of heat here about promoting the FD blades but I really do not care. You owe it to yourself to try them. As Steve has mentioned he has found certain types of blades to work with certain styles. No harm no foul. His arm didn't fall off, his saw didn't fall apart. He gave them a try. You do not find them to your satisfaction, it is a free country go back to the others. Good luck and Happy Scrolling.

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  • Greenfield_Bob
    replied
    Chris, you can get Flying Dutchman blades at.
    Bob


    http://mikesworkshop.com/

    Leave a comment:


  • PiALaModem
    replied
    I've recently done a limited test. I'll be ordering some #5 two-way-cut FD blades. They are much better than the Olsen #5 Crown tooth.

    The FD 2/0 crown blades I could not control. At the highest tension I could put on the (with a dw788 saw), I could not get them to track. When I turned the work under them, they just twisted and continued cutting in their own direction. I'll stick with Olsen for that type of blade.

    The "superior" spiral blades I could not control any better than I could control the Olsen spiral blades. I just won't be using spiral blades any time soon.

    Thanks, Mike, for the samples. I'll be trying out the other types you sent as time allows.

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisyates
    replied
    Where does one find these Flying Dutchmen blades?

    I've been using Dremel, Ridgid, and VA blades for awhile and seem to work fine for my purposes, but would love to try something new if you all claim they are that much better! (I am mostly using pinned skip tooth by the way)

    (actually those Dremel blades dull out way too fast)

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Torture

    I do not for the life of me know why I want to torture myself every now and again. Today I was cutting some napkin holders such as the ones in the photo.

    When cutting these the outer part must be cut from the center at an angle. So I decided this would be a good place to use up some of the many blades I have accumilated over the years before I found the FD blades. I did not care if I used one blade for each cut. Well let me tell you after the first one with the pushing and the burning I gave up and broke out the FD blades. From there it was a piece of cake. I tell you these blades can't be beat. By the way I was able to cut 4 with the FD blade as opposed to one very tough one with othr blades. There is a savings right there. No more torture. When will I learn??

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  • Jediscroller
    replied
    I've yet to try the Pegas brand so I can't comment on those. I cut a lot of very intricate portraits out of 1/8" BB typically in stacks of 5. I've tried several different Olsens and the results are always the same, they dull very quickly, typically in under 15 minutes (if they don't break first). With FD-SR #3's I usually get 30 - 45 minutes of cutting time and I think I've broken 1 blade. With the #1's I get about 20 - 30 minutes cutting time on this size stack. I've also tried the TC's but found them too difficult to control for my type of cutting. I've found this same thing when cutting hardwoods from 1/2" to 2", the FD's always outlast comparable Olsens (for me) by at least a 2 - 1 margin. Recently I cut some 2" Padauk, a #9 Olson dulled in about 3 minutes (literally) and burned from the start, the only other viable option I had were FD-SR #7's which is really not the right blade for this thickness but I gave them a try and managed to get about 20 minutes of cutting time out of them as well as having no burning and being able to finish the project.

    Kevin

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  • minowevie
    replied
    well for me. i have tryed alot of blades . an brock alot of blades. pushing an sawing at the rough speed has tought me alot. but not enouph. hahah. its a toss up between Flying Dutchmon an Sroll Amirica. the Flying Dutchmons was way to fast an sharp for me at first. so i stuck to the Sroll Amirican. scrolled slow. worked great. but when i got faster. woops brock them too. for they got dull very fast. found my self going back to the blades i had from Flying Dutchmon. to finish my work. old blades, I had already used. haha rely sharp . so i would put them aside , an saved them . for when i got better at cutting,.its so funny . when i got better at cutting , i needed long lasting blades that held their sharpness. an guss what it was Flying Dutchmons. not only was those the best blades. but the seller , MIKE M , was a great metor in scrolling. He not only sells you his blades , but tells you how to use them , gives lots of advice. an becomes a freind in the prosses. He will back up his blades, and deal with you too. walmart wont do this nor will home depot. or lowes . like you could get good blades there . hahah , You can learn on any blades. and i mean any. but when you wont to get good at it. we wont the best. and i have found no better than Flying Dutchmons. not becouse He is my friend. but Becouse He sells the best . an stands buy them. your new friend Evie

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  • Back2Jake
    replied
    Originally posted by AuDust
    Toni,

    I use FD, Olson and Eberle blades for different reasons. When cutting pieces for box puzzles the copper colored 2/0 Eberle blades are easier to see against the black lines.

    Have used FD and Olson when stack cutting baltic birch tray puzzles for children. Have had the best luck with 9R olson, less chip-out without having to use clear tape. Make 4 to 500 a year, so that is a lot of clear tape to peel off the pieces of every fourth puzzle.

    The FD's seem to work best in solid wood for me, make nativities in 4/4 and 5/4 mahogany and red oak. The FD's seem to be a cross between a stamped and precision ground. The precision ground blades are, at least for me, too aggressive for intricate work. They are great for cutting out shapes with little detail requiring sharp turns.

    Just my 2 cents worth.

    AuDust
    Thanks AuDust! You made some points which I tend to agree with.

    Leave a comment:


  • wwalker47
    replied
    Flying Dutchman by far. The only blades I will use.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3_M
    replied
    All scroll saw blades are milled not stamped.
    Mike M

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  • AuDust
    replied
    Blades

    Toni,

    I use FD, Olson and Eberle blades for different reasons. When cutting pieces for box puzzles the copper colored 2/0 Eberle blades are easier to see against the black lines.

    Have used FD and Olson when stack cutting baltic birch tray puzzles for children. Have had the best luck with 9R olson, less chip-out without having to use clear tape. Make 4 to 500 a year, so that is a lot of clear tape to peel off the pieces of every fourth puzzle.

    The FD's seem to work best in solid wood for me, make nativities in 4/4 and 5/4 mahogany and red oak. The FD's seem to be a cross between a stamped and precision ground. The precision ground blades are, at least for me, too aggressive for intricate work. They are great for cutting out shapes with little detail requiring sharp turns.

    Just my 2 cents worth.

    AuDust
    Last edited by AuDust; 01-14-2005, 09:42 PM. Reason: spelling error

    Leave a comment:


  • jttheclockman
    replied
    Toni

    My mistake I did not know you did all the things stated and have come upon a favorite blade. Scrolling for 20 years means you have tried many different blades and I think we would like to know which blade you have chosen and why. Hope others would join in and report their findings.

    Leave a comment:


  • Back2Jake
    replied
    Originally posted by jttheclockman
    Toni

    "Now I am not going to knock your test but have to bring to lite some things you are not taking into consideration.... So you see it is not as easy of a test as you made it out to be. "


    "I have chosen the Flying Dutchman blades for a few simple reason and I think if anyone has scrolled for awhile will know what I am talking about. "


    Hi John,

    Let me start by saying that over the last 20 years of scrolling, I too have tried countless blades. Some were absolutely dreadful.

    Perhaps I shortened my post on the testing procedure .... hmmm. Ever think of that? LOL. I had set out a written criteria prior to testing the blades and did follow the same procedures for each comparable blade. You are correct, there are many factors involved in performing an objective testing / review and I am please to see you post to add that information.

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:

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  • Daddy's scroller
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    No. I haven't tried that yet...
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    We need to know what saw you are using, as they have different clamps.
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    Reply to Frustrated
    by markdavd
    When a blade slips out, the tendency is to tighten it more. Make sure you haven't over-tightened the clamp forcing the sides apart. Most OEM clamps are made from soft aluminum so once it starts they will continue spreading and it will be near-impossible to keep the blades in place.

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