What size, type, and brand blades do you use.

[DaveVanEss]

I will be making puzzles with a picture printed on glossy picture glued onto 1/4" Baltic ply, 1/4" MDF, or maple veneered 1/4" MDF.

Thanks

Dave

[Don in Brooklin On]

Haven't cut puzzles in awhile but when I did I used Flying Dutchman Superior Puzzle blades. Really small but worked quite well.

Best Scroll Saw Blades | Flying Dutchman | Superior Puzzle Jigsaw – Mike's Workshop | Flying Dutchman Scroll Saw Blades (mikesworkshop.com)

[NC Scroller]

Like Don I use the Flying Dutchman Superior Puzzle Blades. 1/4" Baltic Birch is my first choice of material. One thing that works well for me is I use 3M Super 77 adhesive and I spray both the back of the picture and the wood. You also want pictures printed on thicker stock.

[Jim McDonald]

Another vote for Superior Puzzle blades. I also use 3M77 on Baltic birch. After sanding, go over the surface both directions with a tack cloth. A grain of sawdust will ruin your mounting in a millisecond.

[Hobie1dog]

I can't bring myself to change out the spiral cut blade that was on the saw when I bought it.

[NC Scroller]

I can't bring myself to change out the spiral cut blade that was on the saw when I bought it.

Spiral blades have a specific purpose. Puzzles are not one of them.

[Linda In Phoenix]

Another vote for the FD superior puzzle blades.

[Jaguarguy]

I have been using the FD Superior Puzzle blades but with the two puzzles I recently made the space between the parts was so small that I have been having problems getting the parts out of frame. I've had a lot of sanding to make sure parts would come out easily for small hands. I've drilled small "finger" holes to push parts out from the back but parts are still tight in some places.

[Linda In Phoenix]

Jaguarguy...the thicker the puzzle and/or frame and the smaller the blade, the more exacting the cut must be to 90 to ensure there is no taper to impede piece slide in and out. If you are doing thicker wood like and want a little wiggle room so taper doesn't effect you as much, you could step up in size to a size 1 or 2 blade. You'll get a bit more gap, but still attractive. And it makes it easier on thick puzzles where kiddos don't have the dexterity yet to slide pieces in or out in a 90 degree motion---they tend to pull a little toward that dominate hand causing a bit of resistence.

[will8989]

I do alot of puzzles for different age groups. The 5 or less pieces I cut with. #7 mgt Pegas. They are usually bought for kids 3 or less. Most of the rest of my puzzles I cut with a #5 mgt. The most critical part is square table. My Sealife puzzles I cut with a #3 or #5, depending on how hard I want to make the puzzle. There is no wiggle room and it only goes together one way. I tell people take a picture first. This is my best selling puzzle.

[Jimern]

Another vote for the Pegas MG #3. In fact I use that blade for durn near everything

[NC Scroller]

I have been using the FD Superior Puzzle blades but with the two puzzles I recently made the space between the parts was so small that I have been having problems getting the parts out of frame. I've had a lot of sanding to make sure parts would come out easily for small hands. I've drilled small "finger" holes to push parts out from the back but parts are still tight in some places.

The FD puzzle blade is designed more for traditional jig saw puzzles. For larger piece and freestanding type puzzles I would use a larger blade.

[Sandy Oaks]

Dave’s question was using 1/4” BBP. As a Pegas dealer, the #2/0 Skip has a similar tpi as the FD Puzzle blades.

[millwab]

I will be making puzzles with a picture printed on glossy picture glued onto 1/4" Baltic ply, 1/4" MDF, or maple veneered 1/4" MDF.
Thanks
Dave

Dave, if you are printing your picture on photo paper make sure to spray it with a clear coat. My experience is that the surface of the paper (if it’s for an inkjet) will start to fall apart if it gets wet (think wet/damp hands handling the pieces).