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  • Oversized puzzle

    I have to cut an oversized puzzle out of 1/4" BB.

    It will be around 3' x 5' with approx 70-80 pieces.
    I need a good fit but not as tight as a regular puzzle. #1 blade will be OK.

    My first idea was to use a spiral blade so I don't have to turn my piece as I cut.
    I'll try to start in a corner with the first piece an go like that for the others.

    A large piece of wood like this one will be probably hard to keep on the saw. Any advices is welcome !

    I have a some time to think about it. The project must be finished by october 1st.

  • #2
    You will probably have to cut it in sections or you won't be able to reach near the blade to control the cut or at least it will be very difficult. The #1 should work fine.
    "Still Montana Mike"

    "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
    Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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    • #3
      UPDATE - The puzzle will be in two part of 30" x 60".
      I have figure a technique to interlock the two part to form one panoramic puzzle of 30" x 120".

      This puzzle will be used for a cultural event here in Quebec, Canada.
      I will cut approx 100-120 pieces and the visitor will grab 1,2,3... pieces and simply paint it the way they want. The result will be a mosaic puzzle with different color/drawing.

      I will start cutting as soon as I receive my spiral blade from Mike !!
      I'll post some pics of work progress

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      • #4
        Looking forward to your wip's!
        "Still Montana Mike"

        "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
        Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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        • #5
          Hi, mels33....I did something similar to this for a fundraiser a while back. I look forward to seeing yours.

          One thought I would offer is, if you intend this to be something which is re-assembled after completion, is to try and make each piece/locking tab relatively unique in shape. Since each piece will be individually painted after cutting, there will be no "clues" in regard to color/picture on each piece which tells the assembler where it's neighbor might be. If every piece is cut in a pattern style fashion, with similar shaped pieces, it might be a bit troublemsome down the road to put back together again.

          Good luck!
          Shawn Ferguson

          Come visit at The Ferguson Puzzle Company !

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          • #6
            So....are you using the new improved spiral from Mike?
            I was thinking of doing a large 2x12 board about 3 feet long for a puzzle.
            Looking forward to seeing how it works for you.
            Pacifism is great, as long as everyone is participating.



            StephenD


            The Southern Arizona Woodturners Association
            Desert Woodcrafters
            Grandpa for the 7 most amazing children.

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            • #7
              I think the easiest way would be to take the suggestion earlier - cut it into sections first. First time I heard that I thought "but how would those sections fit together??" Duh - cut out the edges as locks and keys - where I anticipate wanting the pieces to be cut. Sometimes pulling it off adds to the challenge.
              Cathy

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              • #8
                I have always wanted to do an oversized puzzle but didn't have a good reason to do one. I am busy with the falll puzzles but would be interested on how everyone does. I always thought I would use a spiral blade but doing the puzzles in sections may be the best approach. Let us know how this turns out
                Bob

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                • #9
                  I start cutting yesterday.

                  My wife draw some "sea life" items on the wood like whales, fish, divers, chest...
                  These parts would be for younger kid.
                  So I have in hands a 30" x 60" piece of 1/4 BB plywood with line drawing on it to follow.

                  My first thought was to cut my board in half with interlocking tab. I dont have a strait line without any fish...so I have to deal with that. So I began cutting in center near a fish (I use FD-NS 2/0), cut an interlocking tab, a fish and continue like that.

                  First thing to mention, when you are 30" away from your blade, following a line it's not a simple job ! Another point is FD-NS 2/0 leave a large cut. So I have to consider this when making my interlocking tab.

                  FD-NS cut pretty fast and my movement must be as fluid as possible to have a good cut without any "vibration" in the line. But at 30" away, is not easy.

                  So I cut approx the half of my first board.

                  My first experience told me that I need a larger table and a good way to support my board as I cut. When you start cutting, you dont have big vibration. But when you are in the middle of the board and you're unable to put your finger near the blade to hold the piece against the scrollsaw plate, you're not laughing anymore !

                  Tonight I will try to add some support on the side of my saw.
                  In the best world, my board must be supported without my hands.
                  So I can concentrate on the cut and not on the board holding.

                  Bye !
                  Last edited by mels33; 09-22-2011, 09:09 AM.

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                  • #10
                    If you think of it take pictures as you progress with your project. It would be nice to see your progress.
                    "Still Montana Mike"

                    "Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
                    Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC

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