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  • backing methods

    Hi, I am new to intarsia, but I am loving it, have made a few pieces, but was wondering has anyone use any other method for the backing besides wood. Would like to find something that lets the piece hang flush to the wall. Was wondering if gluing to canvas would work.

  • #2
    I've never considered using canvas, but see no reason it wouldn't work if you don't mind flexibility in your project. I like my intarsia to fit tightly together and have no gaps and wonder if something stretchy like fabrics would stretch enough with the weight of the wood to cause the piece to pull apart over time. Edge gluing the pieces of the project together might delay that, but the flexibility of the backer might allow those glue joints to separate, especially if you use CA glue to join the pieces. It glues quickly but is not strong. That's why some folks use it for temporary glue joints while shaping. Just my thoughts.

    Jan

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    • #3
      I have used veneer and also 1/32 plywood
      Rolf
      RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
      Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
      Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
      And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

      Comment


      • #4
        I haven't tried 1/32 plywood. I didn't know that was available. Where do you find it?

        Jan

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        • #5
          I found some at Micheals or AC Moore. I use it for book marks. I have also bought it from Sloans
          Plywoods

          That has been on smaller projects I think it would be too thin for a really big project.

          I use 1/16 for most of my ornaments.
          Rolf
          RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
          Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
          Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
          And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks, Rolf. I have an order for several intarsia projects that have to be mounted inside ship's wheels. I'm looking for something thin with a clear surface that can be used as part of the design as well as the backer. It's being screwed to the wheel along the spokes and rim. I'd appreciate your thoughts as to whether this would be feasible for this purpose.
            Thanks

            Jan

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            • #7
              My son Jason made this Eagle when he was in High School, he is now 35 years old. The backing on this is Muslin. I think it is about 17 or 18 years old and it is still holding up very well. It sits flat against the wall.

              It is stiff and not flexible.
              Attached Files
              Dave
              "Tight's tight, too tight's broken"

              My Gallery

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              • #8
                thanks for the suggestions, right now I am experimenting with a piece of canvas coated with glue, waiting to see how it does after it drys.

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                • #9
                  The best way I can think of to have your project flush with the wall is to use no backer at all. I like large projects to have a backer, but for most of my smaller ones, I simply edge glue, and once the glue has dried, apply more glue over the back to fill any gaps and then sand it smooth. Granted, your fit has to be quite good to use this method. I use dowels for extra strength in any fragile areas (like bird tail feathers). Works fine, saves some money.

                  Lou
                  www.woodbylouise.ca

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                  • #10
                    Jan, how will it be fastened to the wheel?
                    Rolf
                    RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                    Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                    Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                    And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The backer is attached to the wheel at multiple places with wood screws. The intarsia is then glued to the backer in the usual manner.

                      Jan

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                      • #12
                        I would use 1/8 and depending on the size of it maybe the 1/16.
                        Rolf
                        RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks, Rolf. I can attach the backer to the wheel in enough places to make it rigid. One of my problems is that the depth from the surface of the wheel to the mounting point is 1/8. I think I'll take the chance of wasting some wood to see if I can get the 1/16 stiff enough to support the project. I wondered if you'd agree with going that thin. I don't know if you saw the project with the schooner in the wheel. That boat was 22 in. tall and mounted to 1/8 Masonite. It worked well and looked fine. The rest of the wheels are smaller with the inner circle I'm filling measuring approx 14 in. in dia. Any further thoughts?

                          Jan

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                          • #14
                            The more I think about it we are making very strong lamination by glueing our pieces of wood to each other and to the backer. I would think the 1/16 will be fine.

                            As I stated earlier I have used thin veneer on some small projects.
                            Rolf
                            RBI G4 26 Hawk, EX 16 with Pegas clamps, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                            Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                            Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                            And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks for your input, Rolf. I really appreciate your help. I thought I was on the right track but haven't worked with woods that thin.

                              Jan

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