Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wood Glue tip

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Wood Glue tip

    I use Probond wood glue for my projects. It's not because it's better than titebond or whatever, but for me it's all about the bottle. The probond is a round bottle, like a can of beer of course, so I'm familiar with that. It has a triangular spout and a big cap that goes over it. The spout tapers to a nice small easy to control hole. Other glue bottles seem to be designed where you have to pull the end to open the spout which is way too wide to use, and then you push it down closed and it gets all gummed up and dried out. The probond also has a nice large lid...as far as the part that screws off for refilling the bottle, where as most others have a small lid that's hard to pour into. Matter of fact, my probond is actually titebond II extend at the moment I do believe, because my wife bought me some of that in a stocking. Anyhow...

    Remember when you were a kid in the garage with a big pair of plier or vicegrips and a bottle of glue between your legs prying on cap with all your might??? Now that's what I'm talkin about! The secret is to remove the lid of your glue bottle before you first use it and coat the threads with johnsons paste wax. Now no glue can get into the threads and dry up on you, preventing further refills.
    Jeff Powell

  • #2
    Good tip!



    Gill
    There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted.
    (Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)

    Comment


    • #3
      Those are good tips. I wonder, will the paste wax trick work with PVC pipe cement? As hard as I try, I always seem to get some cement on the threads and then when I want the use the can again after a couple of weeks the lid is almost impossible to get off.
      Bill

      I have an RBI Hawk 220-3 VS

      Visit my Gallery
      and website www.billswoodntreasures.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Good tip Jeff.

        Bob
        Delta P-20 & Q-3

        I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me!

        Comment


        • #5
          This is the best tip about tips I've seen in a long time! LOL I picked up a 60 cc syringe and the largest needle you can buy and use it frequently too. Guaranteed no air in the glue and it seals up nice with standard cover on the syringe. Picked up that technique from a gentleman who does a lot of furniture repair and wants to inject the glue into cracks without having to dismantle. Never thought of waxing the bottle ... I'll certainly do it now!
          Shoot for the moon. If you miss you'll be headed for a star! www.80artdesigns.com

          Comment


          • #6
            One other user friendly gluebottle for scrollsaw work is an elmers glue pen. its regular yella wood glue in it, and a nice tiny spout to apply the glue with. When it gets almost empty, I remove the other application tip on the opposite end, and refil with TitebondII .The wax is a great idea I never thought of either.I will do that. Dale
            Dale w/ yella saws

            Comment


            • #7
              A few other things that can be used..

              Vaseiline, has been used for years for that same purpose, 2 other options that you could use to prevent the tops from adhering to the jars or plastics, is a piece of wax paper or a piece of plastic that you cut a little larger then the opening, and then lay it across the top of the opening and then tighten up the lid.

              Comment


              • #8
                I use these for those really tight spots. Very inexpensive and work like a charm.
                Kevin
                Scrollsaw Patterns Online
                Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671

                Comment

                Unconfigured Ad Widget

                Collapse

                Latest Topics

                Collapse

                • will8989
                  Reply to My beauties
                  by will8989
                  He puts biscuts between the long pieces, is that what you meant? He has stainless screws in the lips then puts the plugs on top of that. Scott, cutting one doesn’t take long. It’s the removing of the tiny drill hole, spraying each piece with distilled water, letting dry, sanding and sometimes flap...
                  Today, 10:55 AM
                • Rolf
                  Reply to Cutting guide for straight cut on a scroolsaw
                  by Rolf
                  Like Bob said clamp a straight edge to the table and adjust it to compensate for the blade drift. There are some blades that have no or very little drift. Like the Olson PGT series it also seems to me that the Pegas MGT 3 or larger cut very straight....
                  Today, 07:54 AM
                • Rolf
                  Reply to My beauties
                  by Rolf
                  I now you do beautiful work but I have to say your attention to details on these baskets is impressive. soft smooth edges, no visible glue squeeze out. And of course the cutting boards are beautiful. I am guessing that Bruce cut a spline in the end of the board and then dowels. I have not seen that...
                  Today, 07:49 AM
                • NC Scroller
                  Reply to My beauties
                  by NC Scroller
                  You are one busy lady. About how long does it take to cut one?
                  Today, 05:51 AM
                • NC Scroller
                  Reply to Hegner Multimax-18 for sale Tucson
                  by NC Scroller
                  Good luck.
                  Today, 05:47 AM
                Working...
                X