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  • Auxiliary Top

    Don't remember where I saw this, but I made one for each of my Hawks and they work fine. They are 3/4" thick and when my blade starts getting too dull I put the auxiliary top on and that gets me to unused teeth. Mine are made out of shelving material (Melamine?) and the locating tabs are any scrap material. You see that I used 4 tabs to hold the top, but any amount that would work is fine. Also, you can cut a slot all the way to the front of the top so you won't have to loosen the blade to put the top on. This approximately doubles the life of the blade. By the way, I got a piece of shelving out of the scrap bin at Home Depot for $3.00. Had some left over after making the 2 tops.
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    Buzz
    We Danes are very even tempered. We're always mad about something!

  • #2
    Thats a good tip Buzz. It would work with almost any saw.
    Thanks for posting it.
    CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ
    "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net."
    Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21

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    • #3
      Loud ringing of bells here - I don't know if it's the same place that Buzz saw the information about auxililiary tables but I have the same suggestion here in a book by Rick Peters. I haven't tried it yet but the idea seems interesting when cutting thin stock ...


      AND ... that is where I had seen the suggestion about using a fence on a scroll saw that I asked about a few weeks ago!!! Peters suggests using a fence attched to the auxiliary table ...

      He doesn't mention anything at all about overcoming blade bias though, which Carl (I think) mentioned.

      Am I right in thinking that PGT blades don't have a bias?
      Ian

      Scrolling with a Dewalt 788

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      • #4
        One way to get around the bias would be to use a spiral blade...it will be a bit rougher of a cut, but gives you a pretty nice cut. I got the idea from an article by Fred Byers that we are running in the spring issue...It worked when I try it!


        One caution about using the aux. table is that it basically eliminates your reverse-teeth on the bottom. I'm not saying I wouldn't do it, but just remember it if you are doing something you didn't plan on sanding!!!

        Bob
        www.GrobetUSA.com

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BobD
          One way to get around the bias would be to use a spiral blade...One caution about using the aux. table is that it basically eliminates your reverse-teeth on the bottom.
          Another way would be to use a crown tooth blade. You have the benefit of turning it end-for-end to get a fresh set of teeth, and, you don't lose the reverse-teeth.
          Bruce
          . . . because each piece will be someone's heirloom someday.
          visit sometime
          Hawk 220VS, Delta 40-570

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          • #6
            It's an interesting idea, but it does take your hands up closer to the arms of the saw for some potential knuckle whacks. I do use an auxillary table on my Hawk too, but it's only 1/8 " thick and I only use it to eliminate the hole around the blade for cutting small pieces. If they fall through the hole, they tend to get lost.
            Jeff Powell

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            • #7
              Good point, Jeff,

              It wouldn't be a good thing if doing intarsia or compound cutting (where you traditionally use thicker wood. If cutting fretwork, you'd be fine, though!

              Bob
              www.GrobetUSA.com

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              • #8
                I'm about as new to scrolling as one can get. But I don't see the advantage to saving blades when you can buy blades for less than 20 cents each. I do see another use for an auxiliary top, though. Somewhere I saw one used to help cut perfect circles using a pivot point on the wood top. Something you can't do on a metal table.
                Mike

                Craftsman 16" VS, Puros Indios and Sam Adams!
                Scrollin' since Jun/2006

                My Gallery

                http://scrollcrafters.com (reciprocal links welcomed)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MikeDingas
                  But I don't see the advantage to saving blades when you can buy blades for less than 20 cents each.
                  Hey Mike my mum used to say "Look after the pennies and the pounds will take care of themselves" ...

                  I used about a dozen blades yesterday - 12x10c is enough to buy an extra coffee at Tim Horton's ...
                  Ian

                  Scrolling with a Dewalt 788

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                  • #10
                    Aux Table

                    I like the idea, especially being able to put a fence on it. PG blades still have a little bit of drift - but not nearly as much as others. Using the table would make reverse tooth blades pointless. Good idea.
                    Cathy
                    Cathy

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                    • #11
                      I would really like to hear more about an auxillary top "jig" for cutting perfect circles, I go cross eyed about 3/4 way through any circle cut and make an error. I avoid circles like the plague whenever I can.
                      Todd

                      Hawk G4, Dremel 1800

                      Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

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                      • #12
                        I cut circles like that on my bandsaw but don't see how it is possible on a scroll saw. Wish it would work. Hope someone shows us how.

                        EarlinJax

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                        • #13
                          Earlin, I don't have a band saw at the house though the father in law has given me his old one which will be dropped off soon. With that said, what info is out there on cutting circles with a band saw, I've not worked with them since high school shop class.
                          Todd

                          Hawk G4, Dremel 1800

                          Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

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                          • #14
                            You can buy a steel circle cutting jig from Diamond. However, you'd have to drill a hole at the rear of your table to fix it.

                            I've actually got one of these (she would have... ) but I've never used it. It's little more than a swivelling steel post with a hole through which you can slide a steel trammel bar. At the end of the trammel is a pin to hold the workpiece.

                            Why have I never used it? I get very accurate circles using a router on a home-made trammel. Routers also have the advantage of rigid cutting edges which don't have a bias or propensity to flex. Moreover, you can use a router for so many other tasks. If you're going to be cutting circles regularly, my advice would be to invest in a router.

                            Gill
                            There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted.
                            (Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for the info Gill, I do have a router already and as I stated in the Christmas wish list topic I am hoping for a table to go with it. I use my router very little as I haven't taken the time to learn all the things that can be done with it.
                              Todd

                              Hawk G4, Dremel 1800

                              Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati

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