Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How can I prevent veneer chips in BB plywood

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How can I prevent veneer chips in BB plywood

    I have a Dewalt 788 and am making ornaments out of 1/8" BB plywood. I am using a #3 ultra reverse blade and am stacking layers from 2-4 thick. On narrow cuts (1/8" wide) I frequently get chipping of the veneers. Most often on the bottom layer, but occasionally on the other layers.

    Any suggestions on preventing this? I hate to throw away so many bad ornaments.

  • #2
    I have been using the same basic set up--maybe not so small cuts--with no problems.
    Are the chips onn all layers or just one?
    Jim
    When looking at the clock at work--the correct time is:
    Too early to leave, too late to call in.

    Comment


    • #3
      For 1/8" stock even stacking, I would use FD UR #1 blades. If most of the chips are on the bottom, you might consider a sacrificial board on the bottom.
      Denny
      ArtCrafters in Dayton, TN

      Comment


      • #4
        Not saying I'm any authority - but I don't like chipping out either - and I work hard to prevent it.

        And - not saying this is "chip free" but here is what I do:

        - as above - sacrificial boards go a long way to help out - you can sell the "sacrificed" work as "seconds".
        - tape on both sides of the work does help minimize chipping.
        - I think it is a fair statement to say that if you are doing fine fretwork (as you seem to be doing) then use a fine blade to cut it - try a #3/0.
        - also - crank your scrollsaw speed and slow you feed speed.
        - finally - if you try all the above you will definitely minimize your chipping - but you are unlikely to eliminate it altogether - the next step is to apply a thicker finish - this goes a long way to "forgiving" any issues in the piece - and - at least in my view - adds a bit of "character" to the finished work.

        Jay

        Comment


        • #5
          I use reverse tooth blades. That helps

          Comment


          • #6
            How about putting a piece of blue painters tape on each piece.It usually prvents chipping.I know it sounds like a lot of time involved,but it's better than having to throw pieces away.
            Will M

            Comment


            • #7
              I have tried most of these suggestions and still get some chipping. I have not tried using #1 fdur blades which I will definitly give a try along with tape on both sides of each of the layers in the stack. I like the idea of selling the chipped ones as seconds, it might at least pay for the materials.

              Jay, are you talking about the finish after the cutting is finished or before the cutting?

              Comment


              • #8
                I do not recommend tape or even the clear shelf liner on any plywood. REMOVING THEM WILL PEAL OFF WOOD FIBERS AND DELICATE PARTS. When you say Baltic Birch you mean real Baltic Birch and not the stuff you get from Lowe's or Home Depot. Nothing will help with that stuff. As suggested above go to a smaller reverse tooth blade, slow down your blade and feed speed and put a sacrificial piece under it. Can you post a picture of what you are trying to cut? It might help us help you further.
                Scott
                Creator of fine designer sawdust.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I agree with Scott. I normally put tape on all of my projects or removable contact paper. But once you get real narrow areas 1/8 or less the probability of chip out goes up. For this really fine work I go to a High tooth count 2/0 blade 28 TPI , like Olson or Pegas.
                  The tooth count is what makes the difference. I cut my ornaments 6 up out of 1.5mm birch ply with rare chipping.
                  Rolf
                  RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                  Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                  Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                  And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by vgraf View Post
                    I have tried most of these suggestions and still get some chipping. I have not tried using #1 fdur blades which I will definitly give a try along with tape on both sides of each of the layers in the stack. I like the idea of selling the chipped ones as seconds, it might at least pay for the materials.

                    Jay, are you talking about the finish after the cutting is finished or before the cutting?
                    Here is one of a set of ornaments I'm just finishing up now - this would be the bottom "sacrificial" piece - the fretwork is cut with either a 3/0 or 2/0 spiral blade - the outside rim cut with a #1 flat blade - this piece has two coats of polyurethane sprayed on it. There are 7 "tear outs" in the piece.that I can count - another coat of two of polyurethane will soften them some more. I don't sell my work but I don't have any hesitation in including this as a gift item or a charitable donation for whatever purpose they choose.

                    Should add that I do use painters tape but peel it off carefully - not saying it's always perfect - but no tape - at least in my experience - generates more tear out.

                    Thanks,


                    Jay

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. I am wrapping up some other projects right now before I try cutting some more ornaments.
                      Virgil

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That is a great ornament (who's design?) and spirals are perfect for something like this with all of the veining. But spirals are a bugger when it comes to rough cut and tear out.
                        Rolf
                        RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350, Nova 1624 DVR XP
                        Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"
                        Proud Member of the Long Island Woodworkers Club
                        And the Long Island Scrollsaw Association

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rolf View Post
                          That is a great ornament (who's design?) and spirals are perfect for something like this with all of the veining. But spirals are a bugger when it comes to rough cut and tear out.
                          Rolf,

                          This is a Sue Mey pattern - originally designed as a serviette holder - I modified the pattern and reduced the size considerably so it could serve as a tree ornament.

                          https://www.scrollsawartist.com/sant...te-holder.html

                          Jay

                          Comment

                          Unconfigured Ad Widget

                          Collapse

                          Latest Topics

                          Collapse

                          • will8989
                            Reply to Pegas saw
                            by will8989
                            Bob, thewoodworkingshows.com Baltimore is 1/3-1/5. Lately it seems they always have space. And it’s not that far for you to travel!
                            Hegner converted their top blower to a vacuum which I really like. What needs to be changed on the Pegas saw? I don’t want to buy something than need to change...
                            Today, 09:01 PM
                          • vgraf
                            Reply to Pegas saw
                            by vgraf
                            Rolf,
                            Most blowers blow the dust from the left side to keep the cutting line clear. Did you disconnect your blower so that the vacuum system sucks the dust from the left keeping the pattern lines clear?
                            Today, 07:34 PM
                          • vgraf
                            Reply to Price Tags
                            by vgraf
                            I found some small tags at Hobby Lobby. They were in the Jewelry materials section.

                            https://www.hobbylobby.com/Beads-Jew...p/13171-TI0524

                            They were about 3/8" x 5/8".

                            $4.99 for a packet...
                            Today, 07:22 PM
                          • Rolf
                            Reply to Pegas saw
                            by Rolf
                            I added a trap to catch the small pieces that I don't want to lose. Also a simple swivel so I can swing the top part out of the way without messing with the upper nozzle. I did not glue the joints in case I get a clog. ...
                            Today, 05:23 PM
                          • Jim McDonald
                            Reply to Shawl pins
                            by Jim McDonald
                            Not something I would probably do--but great work and excellent detail. Thanks for sharing the images and patterns.
                            Today, 03:56 PM
                          Working...
                          X